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Elliott.lwy

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Hi everyone, I am new to this forum.
My girlfriend just backed into my roommate's car :doh:, and leaving some rubber/plastic (black) strip and medium scratches (nothing deep) on the car. My roommate took her car to an auto body shop and quoted $2,xxx to fix the whole thing.

Here's the picture.
DDJxkv8.jpg


Can these be fixed by wet-sanding and polishing? Can I wet sand paint on the rear fender which is plastic? What products do I need? Thanks in advance.
 
Form the picture looks like most that can be fixed with buffing and yes you can wet sand it. I would buff first and see how it comes out and then if you think wet sanding will help then do that and then buff the wet sanded spots.
Todd
 
If you can't catch your finger on the scratch and the black mark is a transfer. Compounding and polishing will take it out. If the scratches are deeper, then wet sanding (2000 followed by 3500) is required.

Is there any body damage other than that?
 
Should I use M105 with yellow cutting pad and follow by M205 with polishing pad? And for the black marks should I do clay bar first since it feels like it is on top of the paint? Really appreciate for quick reply (:

The beetle only has these scratches, but my girlfriend has her bumper (Kia) cracked so bad. :doh:
 
I wouldn't sweat it, looks like it can be buffed out or at least greatly improved without much effort. If you don't have experience buffing or polishing and want to try taking it out on your own just grab one of those $60 d.a.'s from harbor freight and an orange lake country pad with some compound/polish. Those black stains can probably be reduced with some clay.
 
precisionautosalon said:
I wouldn't sweat it, looks like it can be buffed out or at least greatly improved without much effort. If you don't have experience buffing or polishing and want to try taking it out on your own just grab one of those $60 d.a.'s from harbor freight and an orange lake country pad with some compound/polish. Those black stains can probably be reduced with some clay.
Click to expand...

Even on the plastic-made rear fender? I have been browsing around and only see people working on the body where are metal but not plastic.
 
Alright thanks everyone :)

Should I go like:
Wash>Clay Bar>Cut (m105)>Polish (m205)>Sealant>Wax?
 
From what I can see, most of that will clean up nicely.

Wash the area well with warm water and soap solution and this will give you a better idea of what you'll deal with.

Personally, I would go right to my rotary and a wool pad. Using this will generate some heat and soften the transfer making it easier to remove. Will you achieve 100%? It's hard to say but I'm willing to bet 95% or better should be doable...Providing it's transfer and some light scratches....Once everything's cleaned up then I'd polish the entire area then seal it....
 
BobbyG said:
From what I can see, most of that will clean up nicely.

Wash the area well with warm water and soap solution and this will give you a better idea of what you'll deal with.

Personally, I would go right to my rotary and a wool pad. Using this will generate some heat and soften the transfer making it easier to remove. Will you achieve 100%? It's hard to say but I'm willing to bet 95% or better should be doable...Providing it's transfer and some light scratches....Once everything's cleaned up then I'd polish the entire area then seal it....
Click to expand...

Does a DA with wool pad work as well as rotary with wool pad? Since I only have a DA. Thanks for input anyways. :)
 
Elliott.lwy said:
Does a DA with wool pad work as well as rotary with wool pad? Since I only have a DA. Thanks for input anyways. :)
Click to expand...

In my opinion not really,

A rotary can be an aggressive tool and ideally suited for this task. A DA will most likely work but it will take longer. I think I'd opt for a microfiber disk for the DA..
 
Couldn't tell from this angle, but should there be warpage from the impact, consider PDR (painless dent removal) service before spending big money at a body shop.



Elliott.lwy said:
My girlfriend just backed into my roommate's car :doh:
Click to expand...

Must...resist...urge....
 
BrutalNoodle said:
Couldn't tell from this angle, but should there be warpage from the impact, consider PDR (painless dent removal) service before spending big money at a body shop.





Must...resist...urge....
Click to expand...

Not really backed into but glanced. There has no dent or deep scratches.
The quote from the body shop is actually replacing body panel on the driver side and paint over (why cant they just simply buff it off). It is not worthy to pay half of the car to fix it. :nomore:
 
Btw, would m101 or m105 better for this job if I am using a DA? And which pad should I use?
 
Start with the tools you have available. M105 with a polishing pad (white) is less aggressive than with a cutting pad (yellow) and it will give you an idea on what to do next. Make sure the area is cleaned and yes I'd clay it as well. If you have a wool pad for the DA feel free to use it. It's not as efficient as if it were used on a rotary buffer but work with what you have.

This is not the spot to learn how to use a rotary buffer on. If you're comfortable with a DA use it. Like others said you should get 95% or better correction. I like BobyG's advise but since you don't have or I'll assume have used a RB it will just take a little longer to get the results from a DA. If you have the Megs MF system than by all means use it but again use what you have then go from there.
 
Goof Off will do a nice job of removing the black marks but be sure to wash it with warm soapy water as soon as you finish. It may soften the clear coat so do a small test spot. I have done this in the past when a customer backed into her garage door jam. White plastic on red paint.
 
I was thinking about this and have an additional suggestion/idea...

Since you're using a dual action polisher I'd still use and aggressive pad but lets do a bit of prep work prior to using it.

What I suggest you try will require two commonly available tools; a blow dryer and a plastic razor blade..

After you've washed the area heat the transfer by moving the hair dryer back and forth over a small area. This will heat up the entire area softening up the transfer. Once it's nice and warm use the plastic razor blade and carefully scrape the transfer pealing it up.

This should make it much easier to finish up with the DA....
 
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