Worth Upgrading to PC 7424XP?

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Artbuc

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Hi folks! I have a PC 7335 that I bought from Meg 15 years ago. It is in great shape although it seems like I have to pay more attention to keep it rotating. Seems like the weight of the machine itself will stop the rotation on a horizontal hood surface. I trimmed my 6.5" pad down to 5" and that helped a lot. Maybe it is just my imagination. I have read that the XP is easier to keep rotating but many do not like the location of the cooling fan vent. Also the XP is a little heavier.

I use my DA to apply Meg UP, UC and #7. I hand apply Meg Next Gen LSP. Do you think it is worth upgrading to the XP? I am 64 and the idea of a better machine, even a little better, is appealing. Thanks.
 
At the current state of the art, I would look at either the Flex 3401 or the new Rupes. I upgraded from a 7424xp to the Flex and honestly there is no comparison. Less tiring and more effective because of the forced rotation. If your budget can stand it, I would pick either one of these two machines.
 
No, I do not not believe that is an upgrade. There are many others that are indeed an upgrade. Research is your friend.
 
Artbuc said:
Hi folks! I have a PC 7335 that I bought from Meg 15 years ago. It is in great shape although it seems like I have to pay more attention to keep it rotating. Seems like the weight of the machine itself will stop the rotation on a horizontal hood surface. I trimmed my 6.5" pad down to 5" and that helped a lot. Maybe it is just my imagination. I have read that the XP is easier to keep rotating but many do not like the location of the cooling fan vent. Also the XP is a little heavier.

I use my DA to apply Meg UP, UC and #7. I hand apply Meg Next Gen LSP. Do you think it is worth upgrading to the XP? I am 64 and the idea of a better machine, even a little better, is appealing. Thanks.
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Well ol school..."age ain't nothing but a number", says the saddle tramp.
If the 7335 is similar to the 7336, then the XP is worth it.
15 years is a lot of miles.

Those in my circle never mention cooling vents.

EDIT: I agree that there are brands priced similar to the XP that are indeed an upgrade.
 
addysdaddy said:
At the current state of the art, I would look at either the Flex 3401 or the new Rupes. I upgraded from a 7424xp to the Flex and honestly there is no comparison. Less tiring and more effective because of the forced rotation. If your budget can stand it, I would pick either one of these two machines.
Click to expand...

+1 all the way
 
addysdaddy said:
At the current state of the art, I would look at either the Flex 3401 or the new Rupes. I upgraded from a 7424xp to the Flex and honestly there is no comparison. Less tiring and more effective because of the forced rotation. If your budget can stand it, I would pick either one of these two machines.
Click to expand...


Just watched the AutoGeek Flex video. This machine looks awesome but I am concerned about burning paint as I am just a DIYer, especially going over curved surfaces. Should I be concerned?
 
Artbuc said:
Just watched the AutoGeek Flex video. This machine looks awesome but I am concerned about burning paint as I am just a DIYer, especially going over curved surfaces. Should I be concerned?
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No worries actually. Here's a link to a recent detail I did using the Flex. In fact I would argue because of the add'l cutting power you don't need to "lean into" the machine and therefore it's safer. Regardless it's a DA but with the added power of the forced rotation. If that still is a concern, look at the Rupes - but honestly I'm so happy with the Flex, I wouldn't (and not) be tempted by this new machine.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...g-2011-black-cat-jaguar-extreme-makeover.html
 
At the current state of the art, I would look at either the Flex 3401 or the new Rupes. I upgraded from a 7424xp to the Flex and honestly there is no comparison. Less tiring and more effective because of the forced rotation. If your budget can stand it, I would pick either one of these two machines.
Click to expand...

:iagree:

I started out with the PC and used it for a couple years but then I upgraded..

I am amazed with my New Flex 3401
Much faster and easier to use. I don't think burning paint would be much to worry about at this stage of your experience.

I upgrade to the Flex :dblthumb2:
 
The Griots Garage polisher is more powerful than the XP--I never have problems keeping the pad rotating and it comes with a lifetime warranty.

If I could justify it (about $350) I'd purchase the Rupes 15--it is a random orbital, but has a 15mm orbit rather than an 8mm orbit like all of the other random orbital machines.

If you read the reviews and comments it is very easy to use--with the large orbit you don't need to put pressure on the machine to do correction.
 
addysdaddy said:
No worries actually. Here's a link to a recent detail I did using the Flex. In fact I would argue because of the add'l cutting power you don't need to "lean into" the machine and therefore it's safer. Regardless it's a DA but with the added power of the forced rotation. If that still is a concern, look at the Rupes - but honestly I'm so happy with the Flex, I wouldn't (and not) be tempted by this new machine.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...g-2011-black-cat-jaguar-extreme-makeover.html
Click to expand...

OMG, that Jag is beautiful!! You mention leaning into the XP. Seems like the pad would definitely stop rotating if you applied that much pressure?
 
I have both, the Griots Garage 6” and the Flex 3401 as well as the Griots Garage 3”. I started with the Griots Garage 6” but was looking for a machine that would not stop rotating when traveling over convex or concave surfaces. I noticed especially on the concave area’s, I was getting very inconsistent correction results due to reduction in rotation RPM’s and sometimes rotation had even stopped. That all being said, I still use my Griots Garage 6” for finish polishing and the application of sealants and wax. The Flex 3401 is my go to machine for any correction work and if I had to chose only 1 then I would chose the Flex.

Craig
 
I have a PC7242, Griots Garage 3" & 6" as we'll as the Flex 3401. A PC is a good machine that takes technique to get full paint correction. The Griots and Flex also require a good technique. If the technique is mastered the Griots and Flex will assist you in getting the job done faster.

Remember it is your choice of the route you want to go. Money does play a big part of it. A GG6" is an affordable choice in comparison to the PC

Ed

:autowash: :buffing:
 
Artbuc said:
Hi folks! ... I trimmed my 6.5" pad down to 5" and that helped a lot. Maybe it is just my imagination. ...

.. Thanks.
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after re-reading I am surprised that no one has commented on this. 6.5" pads are too big for the 7424xp also. 6.5" pads are great for beginners. I recently ordered 5.5" and 4" pads and yes it makes a huge difference. Here is an idea, If you can afford the Flex get it, keep the PC, invest in a few 5" pads for the PC and have the best of both worlds. Win Win :dblthumb2:
 
I have a ? about the 7424XP. I just ordered one of the complete kits with pads etc 5.5 inch Lake country pads. I did the upgrade to the HD model. Do you all use that one and what exactly is the difference? I think it said the cord was attached to the unit was one difference. The Porter cable site says that the 7424XP has a 3.7 amp motor. Does this have a heavy duty version? I like my cord to be attached to the unit instead of pushing an extension cord on and hopeing is doesn't fall out. I currently use an old Black& Decker 2300 Rpm Buffer that I"ve had since 1977. This will make it a lot easier to do my details. Any info would be appreciated. I'm just an old guy who likes clean cars. Feed back please
 
WAXOFF said:
I have a ? about the 7424XP. I just ordered one of the complete kits with pads etc 5.5 inch Lake country pads. I did the upgrade to the HD model. Do you all use that one and what exactly is the difference? I think it said the cord was attached to the unit was one difference. The Porter cable site says that the 7424XP has a 3.7 amp motor. Does this have a heavy duty version? I like my cord to be attached to the unit instead of pushing an extension cord on and hopeing is doesn't fall out. I currently use an old Black& Decker 2300 Rpm Buffer that I"ve had since 1977. This will make it a lot easier to do my details. Any info would be appreciated. I'm just an old guy who likes clean cars. Feed back please
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The only difference between the standard and HD 7424XP is the length of the cord. This is the same as with the GG6 which is more powerful (7 amp, 850 watts) than the XP and has a lifetime warranty.

Found a 12' 2-way, 16 guage extension at HD for $8--since it's two way the plug is small so I just taped it to the polisher cord for a permanent 22' cord which seems to be plenty long for a 2 car garage.
 
RLucky82 said:
after re-reading I am surprised that no one has commented on this. 6.5" pads are too big for the 7424xp also. 6.5" pads are great for beginners. I recently ordered 5.5" and 4" pads and yes it makes a huge difference. Here is an idea, If you can afford the Flex get it, keep the PC, invest in a few 5" pads for the PC and have the best of both worlds. Win Win :dblthumb2:
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I am planning to do. Just found MP's article on best pads for the first generation DA's. Man this site is loaded with info! I am going to get LC 5.5" flat pads. My H&L Meg backing plate is 4.75" and has a low profile with not too much give. Should I be buying a new LC backing plate to use with the flat pads? Thanks.
 
Artbuc said:
OMG, that Jag is beautiful!! You mention leaning into the XP. Seems like the pad would definitely stop rotating if you applied that much pressure?
Click to expand...

That's true of any of the DAs polishers. You can apply enough pressure to cause the machine to halt. I'm going to guess that also true of the Rupes since it's a true DA.

Which leads us back to the Flex. It's advantage is also it's disadvantage. You cannot force that machine to stop - even with two elephants leaning hard on the unit. Personally I really like the control it gives and the ability to back off on my hand pressure and allow the machine to do all the work. People complain about the unit "walking" on them - I see that as immediate feedback & a benefit since that only occurs when the pad is not squarely against the surface. It's screaming "fix me" or I'm outta here. You get the idea - it's self teaching and for me, that's a good thing. 15-30 minutes running the Flex and you'll be a pro. It rarely happens to me now and mostly when I get distracted - but keeping it square to the paint has become second nature at this point.

I was slow coming to the Flex but now I wouldn't want anything else. I know I can correct anything and everything with the right technique, product & pads. Speaking of which, the hybrid pads are made specifically for the Flex and are awesome. Use the Flex and the hybrid pad system on that Jag btw, which has pretty soft paint.
 
addysdaddy said:
At the current state of the art, I would look at either the Flex 3401 or the new Rupes. I upgraded from a 7424xp to the Flex and honestly there is no comparison. Less tiring and more effective because of the forced rotation. If your budget can stand it, I would pick either one of these two machines.
Click to expand...

:iagree:100%
 
Artbuc said:
That is exactly what I am planning to do. Just found MP's article on best pads for the first generation DA's. Man this site is loaded with info! I am going to get LC 5.5" flat pads. My H&L Meg backing plate is 4.75" and has a low profile with not too much give. Should I be buying a new LC backing plate to use with the flat pads? Thanks.
Click to expand...
the 4.75 backing plate should work perfect with the 5 to 5.5" pads. If you feel you need more flex for some reason you can always get a different back plate at a later time but I doubt you will need it.
 
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