WRXINXS
New member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 1,280
- 0
I know some of you guys had been following my thread about dry buffing my car and leaving buffer haze.
Basically I detailed my 2003 Black WRX as follows:
-AG HD foam cannon with Optimum Car Wash Soap
-2 Bucket wash w/ Optimum Soap and ONR mixed in
-Blow Dry
-Clay with Opti-Eraser fine grade block w/ ONR as lube
Next I tried using XMT360. This was only my second polish job. Unfortunately I did not do a test spot and forgot to prime my pad. So basically I dry-buffed my entire car! At this point I had not realized what I had done and wondered why my car was so hazy.
I made a post in the detailing 101 forum and got some very helpful advice. I would like to especially thank "Hoytman" and "CM8 6MT". After help diagnosing the problem and learning that the problem was not with the XMT360 but that I had drybuffed the car I had to make a choice.
I could either correct the problem with the XMT360 or switch up to M205 to correct the problem. I decided that my car needed greater correction than 360 could offer and went with 205.
I watched and read Mike Phillips videos and articles about priming a pad, cleaning a pad on the fly, section passes etc.
This morning I properly polished my car making about 6 section passes per panel on speed 5 with a PC7424XP and white CCS 5.5" and 4"pads. I used a green pad after the white pad on the hood for greater gloss.
Here are some pics after the polishing and Griots Garage Pre-Wax Cleanser wipedown but before LSP:
I sealed with 2 coats of Opti-Seal as my LSP. Here are a few pics with LSP applied:
Other thoughts:
XMT360 is a good product and I feel confident I can use it next time properly for light correction. Thank you Hoytman for guiding me on this. The sections that were not hazy from my drybuffing were slick and glossy. Great product for soft paint!
M205 worked wonders on my paint. I'm thrilled with the glossyness! Thank you CM8 6MT for advice on M205. Big ups to the boys at Meguiars!
The only thing that I was not satisfied with is there is a good bit of micromarring/towel marks that I can see in direct sun. They almost look like holograms that move when I move my line of vision. I guess it is what you call micromarring? I believe with my super soft paint that it was cause by polish residue removal and wipedown (Even with clean cobra towels).
Swanicyouth recommended I go straight to LSP and not remove the oils if it would jack up my paint. I would have done that but unfortunately I had already done the wipedown. And, most of it might have been caused by residue removal as well. As FivePoint.0 said it is a lose lose situation. When soft COBRA microfibers mar your paint you might just have to live with towel marks.
Thank you Autogeek for all your help.
Drew:xyxthumbs:
Basically I detailed my 2003 Black WRX as follows:
-AG HD foam cannon with Optimum Car Wash Soap
-2 Bucket wash w/ Optimum Soap and ONR mixed in
-Blow Dry
-Clay with Opti-Eraser fine grade block w/ ONR as lube
Next I tried using XMT360. This was only my second polish job. Unfortunately I did not do a test spot and forgot to prime my pad. So basically I dry-buffed my entire car! At this point I had not realized what I had done and wondered why my car was so hazy.
I made a post in the detailing 101 forum and got some very helpful advice. I would like to especially thank "Hoytman" and "CM8 6MT". After help diagnosing the problem and learning that the problem was not with the XMT360 but that I had drybuffed the car I had to make a choice.
I could either correct the problem with the XMT360 or switch up to M205 to correct the problem. I decided that my car needed greater correction than 360 could offer and went with 205.
I watched and read Mike Phillips videos and articles about priming a pad, cleaning a pad on the fly, section passes etc.
This morning I properly polished my car making about 6 section passes per panel on speed 5 with a PC7424XP and white CCS 5.5" and 4"pads. I used a green pad after the white pad on the hood for greater gloss.
Here are some pics after the polishing and Griots Garage Pre-Wax Cleanser wipedown but before LSP:
I sealed with 2 coats of Opti-Seal as my LSP. Here are a few pics with LSP applied:
Other thoughts:
XMT360 is a good product and I feel confident I can use it next time properly for light correction. Thank you Hoytman for guiding me on this. The sections that were not hazy from my drybuffing were slick and glossy. Great product for soft paint!
M205 worked wonders on my paint. I'm thrilled with the glossyness! Thank you CM8 6MT for advice on M205. Big ups to the boys at Meguiars!
The only thing that I was not satisfied with is there is a good bit of micromarring/towel marks that I can see in direct sun. They almost look like holograms that move when I move my line of vision. I guess it is what you call micromarring? I believe with my super soft paint that it was cause by polish residue removal and wipedown (Even with clean cobra towels).
Swanicyouth recommended I go straight to LSP and not remove the oils if it would jack up my paint. I would have done that but unfortunately I had already done the wipedown. And, most of it might have been caused by residue removal as well. As FivePoint.0 said it is a lose lose situation. When soft COBRA microfibers mar your paint you might just have to live with towel marks.
Thank you Autogeek for all your help.
Drew:xyxthumbs:
