Carpro Dlux OVER Opti-Guard

-Are not CC-paints "flexible substrates"?

-Doesn't CC-paint expand/contract with the prevailing temperature swings it encounters?

-Are, then, OC-Coatings never to be used on painted-bumpers that have "flex-agents" incorporated therein?


Magic :xyxthumbs: :goodpost:
 
If someone could pm Chris or email dr. g I think we could get to the bottom of this fun investigation :)
 
I also have a pack of the CarPro DlX, but have yet to try it.

One product I've previously used, and was not too impressed with it when I used it, and not at all impressed with it now, was GTechniq C4.

Going back about 4 months or so, I prep stripped, and coated my Tahoe's Rear Step Bumper Pad, and Bumper Trim with C4.

Everyone said I used way too much product, as I went through a lot, probably 1/2 the bottle just on this area, and I won't argue that, that they are right.

It did look pretty good right after treating, but looking at it a few days ago, it looked like utter crap, looks faded again, dull, lifeless.

And for 4 months, this Rear Bumper has sat protected, and completely covered by a Covercraft NOAH Custom Fitted Cover.

I will no doubt try the CQuartz Dlx, and perhaps hoping like you have found, this product will product will mingle, or somehow replace C4, and give better, and longer lasting results?

It might be protecting, but as far as a "look" product, to me, C4 doesn't have it.
 
Hard plastics are fine to Opti-Coat. But they are very porous compared to paint. If multiple layers were not added its likely that that Opti-Coat is there and the Dlux was able to penetrate into the pores. Not through the coating though. Opti-Coat flashes too quickly to do much penetration so it's likely just on the textured surface of the trim. Opti-Coat itself cures virtually pore free that's one of the attributes that prevents oxidation.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Hard plastics are fine to Opti-Coat. But they are very porous compared to paint. If multiple layers were not added its likely that that Opti-Coat is there and the Dlux was able to penetrate into the pores. Not through the coating though. Opti-Coat flashes too quickly to do much penetration so it's likely just on the textured surface of the trim. Opti-Coat itself cures virtually pore free that's one of the attributes that prevents oxidation.
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Chris@Optimum said:
Wow. Too much guesswork in that thread
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Thanks Chris...

Now...It may just be me...But:

IMHO...This response of yours hasn't taken any of the:
"guesswork" out of this OptiCoatings/CQ DLux issue.



:)

Bob
 
I'm not trying to wade into this, but UTTG was mentioned somewhere, I find that its cousin, WETS, is darn near impossible to clean off. Is it simply possible that the trim surface wasn't clean enough?

Again, I'm not really trying to wade into this, but the talk of trim releasing oils and outgassing...that might be true for a vinyl piece that has plasticizers...but I'm pretty sure that hard plastics like that windshield cowling and front bumper trim piece don't outgas at 1 ATM nor do they exude any oils.
 
BTW to all concerned I'm very happy with OC on my truck so I'm not knocking the product, but have my reservations concerning it bonding to vinyl trim for reasons I have already stated. I'm also basing this on the appearance of the trim on my truck which I maintain very well. IMO the OC is no longer on the trim after 6 months. My trim looks no different now then it did prior to OC but I also only did one coat. This may be contributed to there only being one coat applied. But......

Lets assume multiple coats were applied and once cured the OC forms a virtually pore free coating as stated. What then prevents the OC from coming off over time as the trim off gasses?? If the OC is then in fact pore free which I have no reason not to believe that it isn't, then once off gassing occurs which it will, the coating being pore free then those gasses in turn would be trapped and not allowed to dissipate. Seeing how trim is a petroleum bi-product those gasses would contain oils and as we know any kind of oil on the surface is a no no when it comes to OC bonding. So in my mind once the pore free coating is applied and the gasses are not allowed to dissipate they then would then form a barrier between the trim and OC which would allow the OC to be simply sitting there waiting to be washed off.

Personally I don't care if it bonds to to trim or not but I sure don't want to be telling people that it protects everything when it may not. I would much rather tell them the only thing they have to maintain on the exterior after OC is the trim.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I'm not trying to wade into this, but UTTG was mentioned somewhere, I find that its cousin, WETS, is darn near impossible to clean off. Is it simply possible that the trim surface wasn't clean enough?

Again, I'm not really trying to wade into this, but the talk of trim releasing oils and outgassing...that might be true for a vinyl piece that has plasticizers...but I'm pretty sure that hard plastics like that windshield cowling and front bumper trim piece don't outgas at 1 ATM nor do they exude any oils.
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I believe that the Op: WRXINXS (Drew) has stated that he had the OptiGuard Pro professionally applied.

Perhaps he'll chime in and further relate any cleaning steps that were taken...especially to the plastic trim pieces.

:)

Bob
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I'm not trying to wade into this, but UTTG was mentioned somewhere, I find that its cousin, WETS, is darn near impossible to clean off. Is it simply possible that the trim surface wasn't clean enough?

Again, I'm not really trying to wade into this, but the talk of trim releasing oils and outgassing...that might be true for a vinyl piece that has plasticizers...but I'm pretty sure that hard plastics like that windshield cowling and front bumper trim piece don't outgas at 1 ATM nor do they exude any oils.
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The OP stated the diffuser was brand new and the trim is anything but hard. So my questions are.

Then why does trim fade and why are you able to revive trim by applying heat from a heat gun. If you have ever tried it then you will know that it revives b/c the oils are brought to the top of the trim that are still there.
 
I think we have raised more questions than answers and may never really know the true answers. But having fun :props:
 
rzatch said:
The OP stated the diffuser was brand new and the trim is anything but hard. So my questions are.

Then why does trim fade and why are you able to revive trim by applying heat from a heat gun. If you have ever tried it then you will know that it revives b/c the oils are brought to the top of the trim that are still there.
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Yow. Plastic may be made from petroleum, but it doesn't have "oil" in it. You can't squeeze a piece of plastic and get oil out (vinyl with plasticizers maybe, in a hydraulic press).

Hard trim fades from UV damage, the heat gun restores it because you are melting and reflowing the plastic to some degree.

Again, I don't really have time to follow this thread, but from the pictures I saw at the start of the thread it was hard plastic trim, not soft vinyl trim. Soft vinyl will lose volatiles and shrink.

EDIT: BTW, cheese is made from milk but no matter how much you heat it up or squeeze it, you can't get any milk to come out of a piece of cheese.
 
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rzatch said:
I think we have raised more questions than answers and may never really know the true answers.

^^^That's a distinct possibility! :dunno:^^^

But having fun :props:

^^^Well said!!^^^ :dblthumb2:
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As I've mentioned before...

-One of the Opti-Coatings will be my choice of 'Coatings' when my vehicles are to be 'Coated'.
(No "plastic" trim, Chromed-wheels, or auto-glass though.)

Opti-Lens on polycarbonate-lenses? Too soon to say...We'll see.


:)

Bob
 
Good ones Sec. :props:

Setec Astronomy said:
Yow. Plastic may be made from petroleum, but it doesn't have "oil" in it. You can't squeeze a piece of plastic and get oil out (vinyl with plasticizers maybe, in a hydraulic press).

I was only stating it in simple terms, Bob can take his turn at an in depth explanation.

Hard trim fades from UV damage,

given

the heat gun restores it because you are melting and reflowing the plastic to some degree.

Hmmmm and you are??? Restoring the base product which is petroleum based

Again, I don't really have time to follow this thread, but from the pictures I saw at the start of the thread it was hard plastic trim, not soft vinyl trim. Soft vinyl will lose volatiles and shrink.

ah you got time its fun bouncing stuff

EDIT: BTW, cheese is made from milk but no matter how much you heat it up or squeeze it, you can't get any milk to come out of a piece of cheese.
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No, but the base product will always still be there. So in your example the only way milk would not still be there is if it were a soy based cheese.:hungry:

Such as trim the base product is petroleum and will always have oils of some degree.
 
Just to add a few things:

The wiper cowl is hard smooth plastic with very very fine texture to it. The wiper arms are metal. The front diffuser is also a smooth plastic with very fine texture to it.

I am not sure how my Opti-Guard installer prepped these surfaces prior to application but I do know he applied one coat only

When I applied the Dlux, I prepped the diffuser with DP Rinseless Wash N Gloss followed by OPC 1:3 followed by Carpro Eraser. I cannot quite remember how I prepped the cowl and wiper arms prior to applying Dlux but I do not believe I used Eraser on them.

Finally all I can say is that I dont believe any trim dressings had been applied to the trim parts in question before the Opti-Guard was applied. As far as the cowl and wiper arms, I can only say I don't think I even had the chance to wash the car much less apply any dressings before I got it Opti-Guarded (I'm about 99% positive). As far as the diffuser I know for sure (100%) I did not apply anything before Opti-Guard application.

Did the dealer apply something before he sold me the car? I will never know, and I did not look for it, but it certainly did not appear that he did.

Hopefully I cleared a few things up.

Also, WOW I feel like I opened a can of worms by posting this thread!
 
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rzatch said:
No, but the base product will always still be there. So in your example the only way milk would not still be there is if it were a soy based cheese.:hungry:

Such as trim the base product is petroleum and will always have oils of some degree.
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No, that's just wrong. There are chemical reactions like polymerization, etc...what you put in isn't what you get out. That's like saying if you burn a gallon of gasoline in your car if you just could capture the exhaust from the tailpipe in a big bag and recondense it you would have the gallon of gas back...it doesn't work that way, your gasoline has been converted into carbon dioxide and water vapor and some contaminants and products of incomplete combustion. Oh, and HEAT.

Plastic doesn't have oil in it...where is Mr. Megane when you need him?
 
WRXINXS said:
Hopefully I cleared a few things up.

Also, WOW I feel like I opened a can of worms by posting this thread!
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Nah, I think you opened up a can of petroleum products...

I think the take-away from this thread is Optimum needs to come out with a trim product like C4 or DLux...I know I am going to try my Opti-Lens when I get it on a couple of spots of trim to see how it does at restoring, if at all.
 
rzatch said:
Bob can take his turn at an in depth explanation.
Setec Astronomy said:
Plastic doesn't have oil in it...
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Click to expand...

Have we unintentionally been leaving:

Plasticizers...and the fact that they will:
"come to the surface and evaporate"...Out of the equation?!?!

WRXINXS said:
Also, WOW I feel like I opened a can of worms by posting this thread!
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Not In My Honest Opinion Drew!!
I enjoy the discussions such as your thread-starter will evoke!!


:)

Bob
 
BTW I just edited my last post becasue I looked again and the diffuser IS textured, but it is actually a super fine almost "Cell" looking texture that is very similar to the cowl plastic.
 
FUNX725 said:
Have we unpurposely been leaving:

Plasticizers...and the fact that they will:
"come to the surface and evaporate"...Out of the equation?!?!
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Yeah, well...certainly there are many types of plastics used on the exterior of modern automobiles, thermoplastics, TPE's, vinyls. Although I have seen some weird rubbery wiper cowlings on GM products, I still would argue that the materials we are taking about for hard trim don't have volatile components like that. I've never seen a wiper cowling shrink like I have the vinyl window trim.

If you're talking PVC, vinyl, etc., then yes perhaps these have plasticizers that will offgas over time, temperature and UV, I just don't think a wiper cowling or similar hard plastic has that volatile content.
 
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