Opticoat Beading and Sheeting After 5 Months vs No Opticoat

smack said:
Did you notice a point where you broke through OC2.0 when doing the section passes?
Click to expand...

No I noticed nothing unfortunately. There's no feedback or change, so I decided to just get rid of any swirls or scratches and consider that if the swirls and scratches are gone, then the opticoat has to be gone too.
 
Hi Roshan...

Thanks for sharing your OC 2.0 video.

I gotta ask...
(and since it appears to be holding up very well---BTW: Nice Coating-prep! :props:)...
-Why do you want to remove the OC?


-I'm with you on the use of M105.
I'm sure you're planning to use further: Less abrasive polishing/finishing steps...
Before the application of your ___???___ LSP.(<<<<Pray tell ) :D


:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Hi Roshan...

Thanks for sharing your OC 2.0 video.

I gotta ask...
(and since it appears to be holding up very well---BTW: Nice Coating-prep! :props:)...
-Why do you want to remove the OC?


-I'm with you on the use of M105.
I'm sure you're planning to use further: Less abrasive polishing/finishing steps...
Before the application of your ___???___ LSP.(<<<<Pray tell ) :D


:)

Bob
Click to expand...

3 reasons:

1) Although my car is my DD, I love keeping it as perfect as I can. That means spot polishing whenever needed and full polish session plans for once or twice a year. I thought with opticoat that I wouldn't have any more faint swirls or scratches, but even with opticoat, no true daily driver can stay swirl free for long. So I'm polishing it.

2) I find waxing my car therapeutic and relaxing. Originally I thought I wouldn't miss waxing, but I do. And although I could wax over the OC, it just doesn't feel the same to me.

3) And the third reason is one that I might think you might identify with most as a fellow inquisitive mind: I want to do tests of products on my car! I can't do any sealant or wax test with opticoat on it lol

So yeah, kind of weird reasons to get rid of a perfectly good opticoat, but then again I'm kind of weird ;)
 
ihaveacamaro said:
but even with opticoat, no true daily driver can stay swirl free for long. So I'm polishing it.
Click to expand...
This is exactly why I don't use coatings on my car. There's no way the paint will stay swirl free, even with a coating. Eventually, the coating will have to be polished off. So, why not just use a durable LSP? Also, you can remove an LSP easily and not have to remove anymore clear coat.

I could see where coatings would be a good selling point for detailers , but on my car, no thanks.
 
Isn't that what the coating is for though...for these fine swirls to end up in a sacrificial layer versus the "real" layer...the paint itself?
 
Hoytman said:
Isn't that what the coating is for though...for these fine swirls to end up in a sacrificial layer versus the "real" layer...the paint itself?
Click to expand...

:iagree:
Exactly. Then when corrections are made the OEM surface is basically untouched. Thus the name sacrificial layer. When there is no coating the defects are mostly in the painted surface, not the LSP.
 
Hoytman said:
Isn't that what the coating is for though...for these fine swirls to end up in a sacrificial layer versus the "real" layer...the paint itself?
Click to expand...

2old2change said:
:iagree:
Exactly. Then when corrections are made the OEM surface is basically untouched. Thus the name sacrificial layer. When there is no coating the defects are mostly in the painted surface, not the LSP.
Click to expand...

^^^^ These.

That would be my main reason for using it. A tube of Opticoat is a lot cheaper than re-clearing an entire car.
 
2old2change said:
:iagree:
Exactly. Then when corrections are made the OEM surface is basically untouched. Thus the name sacrificial layer. When there is no coating the defects are mostly in the painted surface, not the LSP.
Click to expand...
I don't think the coatings are THAT "beefy". Sure, there will be less original clear coat removed, but I don't think it would be anything to write home about. JMO.
 
Nice video. Optimum should create something like that as a promo and sales video.
 
Somewhere on this forum there's some photo's of paint guage readings before opti-coat is applied, and then measurements after opti-coat was applied that showed a considerable increase (considering how thinly it's applied). If it's not on this forum, then I seen it somewhere else. This increase should help with fine swirls considerably, if indeed proper washing and drying technique is used...touching the car as little as possible.

The coating indeed cleans more easily. To me, that translates to less road grime sticking to the surface, reducing marring by at least a "worthy" degree.

I haven't used this coating yet, but I'm just basing my input on various reviews I've seen on this forum. Like anything else...there's a choice involved...and it's not up to me to decide for anyone but myself.
 
FivePoint.0 said:
I don't think the coatings are THAT "beefy". Sure, there will be less original clear coat removed, but I don't think it would be anything to write home about. JMO.
Click to expand...

I disagree there. The thickness of OG is considerable. (I use it and not OC). Any marks will be primarily in the coating so it's saving your paint. I had a van get keyed that I had done with OG and it was an easier correct than normal. I am positive the sacrificial layer of the OG prevented the key from going deeper into the clear.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
richy said:
I disagree there. The thickness of OG is considerable. (I use it and not OC). Any marks will be primarily in the coating so it's saving your paint. I had a van get keyed that I had done with OG and it was an easier correct than normal. I am positive the sacrificial layer of the OG prevented the key from going deeper into the clear.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Interesting real life example!

Is OG thicker than OC?
 
The following post was found on the Optimim forum and is from Chris Thomas of Optimum. There are very few people around with more knowledge of OC/OG then Chris IMO.

Any polishing will be taking thickness from the coat. So explain that proper care is a must in order to maintain otherwise you'll need to correct the coating like paint which will remove it eventually requiring re application. You'll need a test spot to determine the correction needed...but, there's no definitive way to determine what will and will not remove the coating because of the variables. Also, 2.0 is less concentrated and will go on thinner than Pro so I wouldn't expect to be able to do any heavy correction without breaching it. Maybe a pass with GPS and a finishing pad...but still no promise you won't go thru in spots.

Normal safe freshening up of the coating would include a degreasing wash and Opti Eraser. That will clean and gloss the coating but not much for swirls. The best practice for swirls is using better wash methods. The good news is that you are polishing marks from the coating and not continually removing OEM paint. Even if you need to remove and recoat the car a few times over the years you'll still be better off because you haven't been going deeper and deeper into the actual paint
 
2old2change said:
The following post was found on the Optimim forum and is from Chris Thomas of Optimum. There are very few people around with more knowledge of OC/OG then Chris IMO.

Any polishing will be taking thickness from the coat. So explain that proper care is a must in order to maintain otherwise you'll need to correct the coating like paint which will remove it eventually requiring re application. You'll need a test spot to determine the correction needed...but, there's no definitive way to determine what will and will not remove the coating because of the variables. Also, 2.0 is less concentrated and will go on thinner than Pro so I wouldn't expect to be able to do any heavy correction without breaching it. Maybe a pass with GPS and a finishing pad...but still no promise you won't go thru in spots.

Normal safe freshening up of the coating would include a degreasing wash and Opti Eraser. That will clean and gloss the coating but not much for swirls. The best practice for swirls is using better wash methods. The good news is that you are polishing marks from the coating and not continually removing OEM paint. Even if you need to remove and recoat the car a few times over the years you'll still be better off because you haven't been going deeper and deeper into the actual paint
Click to expand...
Nice post! :dblthumb2: :props:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top