Polishing Speed Effects, do I need another tool?

Vegas Transplant · Apr 5, 2013

Durallymax said:
Durallymax said:

Don't have much to report yet. I was just testing everything on a piece of 1/4" sheet we had here. It seemed to be extremely delicate compared to wheels and such, the tiniest thing would scratch it.
10-04.

It had the mill finish on it, I used Zephyr bars, emery, tripoli, green chrome and max red. Seemed to take a long time at the slow speed for it to really get much done, but thats just comparing to videos. Seems enough of them I have watched are guys running them on 6,000rpm grinders though.
Even though you're running less than optional rpm's, you should still get an idea of the micro scratches left from the triopli and emery, when followed up by the green and the white. Emery can be treacherous to 'clean up' on softer metals~even billet.

The Flex seemed happier with paint, it handled everything fine but was just slow. I picked up a Dewalt DWP849X today, was going to test it out polishing the valve cover for my TDI since I'm doing a turbo job on it anyways, but ran out of time.
Cool rops:
It will be nice to have both tools available for various projects but my guess is the DeWalt will stay black and the Flex will stick to paint. I just restored it back to its red color tonight.

Coulda been worse. That black gets EVERYWHERE, pores, ears, hair. Might wanna schedule polishing around days when you're not gonna be taking the gf out later that night.

The cowboy polisher from the video only had mechanics gloves and a bandana that wasn't used, as PPE.

I should have some time this weekend to really get into it, got a few crappy rims laying around I need to get cleaned up.

Thanks again.

Click to expand...

No prob. Cool thread.

Durallymax · Apr 7, 2013

Did the valvecover on my TDI today. Didn't turn out terrible for a first time project. It was kind of odd to work with. I had to sand it to remove some of the odd casting marks. At first I just rubbed some polish to see what it would do and it did not turn black or anything, possibly a coating on it?

I used the following

Blue Air Way/Emery 87 Bar

Yellow Air Way/Tripoli

Purple Air Way/ Green Chrome

White Air Way/ White Chrome

Soft Cotton/ Green Moss Platinum bar.

Do you use any strippers for clear coats vegas? Im looking for a decent one to strip our GM wheels and polish them back.

Thanks.

Vegas Transplant · Apr 8, 2013

Wow. Nice first attempt. Outstanding.
What sanding grit did you finish out with prior to the emory?
How many hours total? I'm impressed, to say the least.

Durallymax said:
At first I just rubbed some polish to see what it would do and it did not turn black or anything, possibly a coating on it?

I doubt very seriously if a non polished alloy would be coated. Probably the years of oxidation and whatnot...not sure. That's a question that the engine modders here on the forum can answer. What polish were you testing?
Actually, you lucked out because a low quality alloy will not bling not matter how much effort one puts into it. Which brings me to your next question. If the wheels are painted and coated alloy, it's possible that a dull shine may be all you get from the fruits of your labor. Not all alloys are equal.
Hopefully they are polished/coated.

Durallymax said:
Do you use any strippers for clear coats vegas? Im looking for a decent one to strip our GM wheels and polish them back.

Thanks.

The last set of wheels that I stripped, I used a paint stripper from Home Depot (not recommended on the CW forum), with no ill effects such as pitting or whatnot. Leaving Tuesday for SC, if I think about it I will take photos of these wheels. They were done 2 years ago and haven't oxidized over since. But they are garaged.

The Busch link has a stripper that forest@mothers recommends for stripping wheels. IIRC, they have a tutorial on Youtube.
I don't care much for the price/quantity of said.

Anthony@B&B Tennessee was using an aerosol, I do believe~but not on wheels.

The CW link has a product also.

Either way you go, multiple applications are the norm.

Vegas Transplant · Apr 8, 2013

Gotta get my day started. This week may be hectic. Probably won't post again this week unless I hear back from OP from SC concerning another thread.

I was admiring the casting mark removal. If you want to take this to the next level, research hard sewn wheels.
Depending on RIDS and what not, you could test spot with the green. Tripoli may prove too harsh.

Downside is getting in between the more intricate surfaces and maintaining pressure.

Upside will be mirror finish.

Durallymax · Apr 8, 2013

I stopped at 400 grit. Thought about 600 but figured I would try it quick after the 400 and it seemed to clean it up nice.

I tried mothers and Zephyr Pro-40. I've been in many OEM engine compartments that have a clear coat sprayed over everything. Ram's with a Cummins are one example.

Which casting marks were you admiring? My photo didn't really show them well, there were etched shapes everywhere. Basically looked like big water spots and had to sand them all out. The little nubs around the edge of it I sanded off in an effort to get a mirror shine, but in hindsight my methods left a lot of deep scratches that are hidden by the camera angle. Removing the extra post cleaned things up (the other one centers the PCV connector), but it make a large divot in the surface.

The wheels I am looking to strip are GM's 8 lug 16" "PYO" wheels. They are a high polish from the factory but have a somewhat machined texture to them. I think they would shine up nicely. They are not painted just cleared. Hub cabs are chromed so they would not look out of place.

The hard sewn wheels cut harder than the blue Air Way or are they softer and provide a higher luster? I have one spiral sewn wheel. The one I finished with was a very soft cotton buff that I went across it with at 2000RPM then slowed to 1000rpm. Not sure if it helped, but some areas seemed better at the lower speed.

What do you reccomend for a sealant? Just a regular paint sealant like the Menzerna Power Lock that I have, or is there something more specific to metals that I should be looking for.

Thanks.

Vegas Transplant · Apr 8, 2013

Durallymax said:
I stopped at 400 grit. Thought about 600 but figured I would try it quick after the 400 and it seemed to clean it up nice.
80 is the lowest that I'll utilize. Usually stop at 600. And 800 if the piece is soft and I want to jump to tripoli or stainless bar.
I tried mothers and Zephyr Pro-40. I've been in many OEM engine compartments that have a clear coat sprayed over everything. Ram's with a Cummins are one example.
Mothers is perfect when used as intended. If you would have hit it with scotch brite first, you would have seen black with your polish.
Which casting marks were you admiring? My photo didn't really show them well, there were etched shapes everywhere. Basically looked like big water spots and had to sand them all out. The little nubs around the edge of it I sanded off in an effort to get a mirror shine,

but in hindsight my methods left a lot of deep scratches that are hidden by the camera angle. Removing the extra post cleaned things up (the other one centers the PCV connector), but it make a large divot in the surface.

Post#19 of this thread

Vegas Transplant said:

Also notice the variety of wheels used especially the one used around 4:40. By just using the airway wheel, you can achieve max. bling, but will still have shiny scratches. That's the reason I stated to master the polishing before moving on to the sanding.

Click to expand...

The wheels I am looking to strip are GM's 8 lug 16" "PYO" wheels. They are a high polish from the factory but have a somewhat machined texture to them. I think they would shine up nicely. They are not painted just cleared. Hub cabs are chromed so they would not look out of place.

Sounds like a plan.

The hard sewn wheels cut harder than the blue Air Way or are they softer and provide a higher luster? I have one spiral sewn wheel.
Not the wheel that I'm refering to. The one you mention is a loose cotton buff.
The hard sewn will allow for pressure and heat to work its magic with the bar.
The one I finished with was a very soft cotton buff that I went across it with at 2000RPM then slowed to 1000rpm. Not sure if it helped, but some areas seemed better at the lower speed.

What do you reccomend for a sealant? Just a regular paint sealant like the Menzerna Power Lock that I have, or is there something more specific to metals that I should be looking for.

Thanks.

.

I have been using Colly 845 with success. I have more metal polishes than waxes or sealants. Last year when I was giving away detailing samples, I tried to add metal polishes to the package. Everyone declined stating they also had a lifetime supply...lol.

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845, liquid wax, heat-resistant wax, car wax