Megs Wheel Brightner Killing Spray Nozzles?

[DP 08 GXP]

Has anyone else had a problem with Megs Wheel Brightner killing the spray nozzles? I have the chemical resistant sprayers that come with the Megs bottles. The first time I put them on they work fine. When I come back to use them a few weeks later the sprayers don't work at all. Any ideas or anyone with the same situation? Thanks.

 

[AutowerxDetailing]

I've had the same issue. I soaked a broken sprayer in a bucket of water all night and the next day it started working again though. So I'm thinking the product is just drying inside the nozzle and clogging it somehow.

Sent from my LG-VM701 using AG Online

 

[Divine Details]

I've had the same issue. I soaked a broken sprayer in a bucket of water all night and the next day it started working again though. So I'm thinking the product is just drying inside the nozzle and clogging it somehow.

Sent from my LG-VM701 using AG Online

I'll have to try that cause I have 3 or 4 bottles that Meg's WB killed.


Chad @ divine details

 

[DP 08 GXP]

I've had the same issue. I soaked a broken sprayer in a bucket of water all night and the next day it started working again though. So I'm thinking the product is just drying inside the nozzle and clogging it somehow.

Sent from my LG-VM701 using AG Online

Thanks for the reply. Ill give that a shot and hopefully it works.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

While it's a pain for most people to do this...

A good best practice is after using Megs WB or any type of spray cleaner, flush your sprayer with water, that is remove the sprayer, stick it in a bucket or bottle or some source of clean water and then pump the sprayer till you've sprayed out all the original chemical and all that is coming out now is clean water.

The put the sprayer back on the original bottle.


Like I said, it's kind of a paint to do this and for that reason most people won't do it. But it can and will increase the lifetime of any seals or rubber o-rings inside the spray mechanism.

 

[DP 08 GXP]

While it's a pain for most people to do this...

A good best practice is after using Megs WB or any type of spray cleaner, flush your sprayer with water, that is remove the sprayer, stick it in a bucket or bottle or some source of clean water and then pump the sprayer till you've sprayed out all the original chemical and all that is coming out now is clean water.

The put the sprayer back on the original bottle.


Like I said, it's kind of a paint to do this and for that reason most people won't do it. But it can and will increase the lifetime of any seals or rubber o-rings inside the spray mechanism.

Thanks for the tip Mike!

 

[yakky]

Great tip Mike. I use WB very infrequently, but when I do, it seems my sprayer is always broken, and I'm using Meguiars Chemical resistant sprayers...

 

[LSUFAN]

I've never had a problem with WB and chemical resistant sprayers. But then again I use it almost everyday so I guess it doesn't have time to dry inside the nozzle.

 

[FUNX650]

Even though HF acid is not considered a “strong acid”…
It is highly corrosive.

It will destroy/dissolve:
-Most metals (except nickel, gold, platinum, silver),
-And most plastics.

I don't foresee manufacturers going to any great lengths to
produce spray-heads made from any "exotic"-materials/metals,
for the general populace, anytime soon.


Following Mr. Phillips tips, (in Post #5 above)...
will prolong the life of sprayers used for Meguiar's WB...
But sooner or later...they will need to be replaced.

BTW:
-Teflon and natural rubber are HF-resistant.
-Proper PPE and Meg's WB go hand-in-hand.



Bob

 

[PiPUK]

This is a topic I have commented on, generally, several times. [i[Chemical resistant[/i] is used generically when the fact is that the products are not actually resistant to all chemicals. Depending on the spray construction, it will be resistant to different chemicals. Acids require different seals to alkaline products and then different again for solvents.

Personally I sell sprays as 'heavy duty' and 'solvent resistant' - not as a generic 'chemical resistant' type.

 

[DaveT435]

This is a post form Mr Magane which you might find helpful
A little technical note pertinent to this:

It is perhaps useful for professional users to appreciate that chemical resistant is not a one-size-fits-all description. Depending on the pump construction and the materials used for the seals, a sprayer will be suitable with different chemicals.

Viton seals - this will be most commonly what you get with a chemical resistant spray. There is definitely improved chemical resistance compared to more generic seals but one should note that viton is probably best for acidic and moderately alkaline products. In high caustic alkaline conditions, it can break down and care should be taken.

EPDM seals - these are most appropriate to alkaline products and, from my point of view, this should thus be most routinely applied to car care. The majority of car care products are on the alkaline side, necessarily so because the majority of soils are acidic in character. One could equally argue that such seals should not really be used with acids so care must be taken because many industrial wheel cleaners are strongly acidic.

Nylon pumps - this is an addition which is not routinely included in sprayers due to the additional cost. In most instances, this is un-neccesary - most notably water based products. However, if one is using solvents which would include products like tar removers, lubricants or fuels, a nylon pump is essential since normal pump construction will swell in such conditions and become under-performing or non-operational. The norm will be that a nylon pump on a product will be accompanied by viton seals.

In practice, a professional user should probably keep two or even three sprayer types: i) Viton for acids and generic chemicals, ii) EPDM for use with strong alkalines and iii) Nylon pump/viton seals for use with solvent based products (iii is perhaps less appropriate to you guys since tar removers are not as routine as here in the UK).

So beware you use the correct spray construction for the product you are using.

 

[PiPUK]

Even though HF acid is not considered a “strong acid”…
It is highly corrosive.

The risk from HF is not the acidity, it is the method it interacts with you. Unlike something like hydrochloric acid (muriatic), HF literally will burrow through your skin and will often desensitise nerves so you may not even realise it is happening. Worse still is that the HF is much more toxic than the typical 'strong acids' so where an HCl product will burn your skin and potentially do deep dermal damage, HF will additionally poison you.

In actual practice, in the manufacturing environment, HF is pretty much the biggest risk in the whole factory. We wear PPE as a general rule but HF requires the use of full body protective gear and the antidote is kept at all times because of the risk of permanent damage or even death should significant exposure occur.

 

[FUNX650]

The risk from HF is not the acidity, it is the method it interacts with you. Unlike something like hydrochloric acid (muriatic), HF literally will burrow through your skin and will often desensitise nerves so you may not even realise it is happening. Worse still is that the HF is much more toxic than the typical 'strong acids' so where an HCl product will burn your skin and potentially do deep dermal damage, HF will additionally poison you.

In actual practice, in the manufacturing environment, HF is pretty much the biggest risk in the whole factory. We wear PPE as a general rule but HF requires the use of full body protective gear and the antidote is kept at all times because of the risk of permanent damage or even death should significant exposure occur.

True...This has been discussed many times.

Since the thread topic was spray nozzles,
I didn't go into the entirety of HF dangers once again.
(In hindsight...Probably should have.)

But, FWIW, I did include this:

BTW:
-Teflon and natural rubber are HF-resistant.
-Proper PPE and Meg's WB go hand-in-hand.

Bob

 

[ihaveacamaro]

So what is proper ppe for this? Realistically, as a full suit won't work.

 

[cardaddy]

Correct me if I'm wrong (Bob) but for the most part isn't pretty much any wheel brightener some solution of hydrofluoric acid? I say that because I used to buy it by the drum to use on my aluminum rollbacks. Depending on how I diluted it... it'd just sit on the bed and literally foam up and kill anything and everything that I wanted to remove. (Oil, tranny fluid, PS fluid, anti-freeze, tire marks, burned car sludge, you name it.)

I'd cut it 4:1 to put on the Alcoa wheels and even then had to wet the wheels first, spray um', hit with a brush and rinse all within a matter of seconds.

Every time I get around any type of wheel brightener I get that familiar whiff of hydrofluoric acid. (The one that takes your breath right out of your lungs and stomps on it!) Those are both good and bad memories! :laughing:

 

[FUNX650]

Correct me if I'm wrong (Bob) but for the most part isn't pretty much any wheel brightener some solution of hydrofluoric acid? I say that because I used to buy it by the drum to use on my aluminum rollbacks. Depending on how I diluted it... it'd just sit on the bed and literally foam up and kill anything and everything that I wanted to remove. (Oil, tranny fluid, PS fluid, anti-freeze, tire marks, burned car sludge, you name it.)

I'd cut it 4:1 to put on the Alcoa wheels and even then had to wet the wheels first, spray um', hit with a brush and rinse all within a matter of seconds.

Every time I get around any type of wheel brightener I get that familiar whiff of hydrofluoric acid. (The one that takes your breath right out of your lungs and stomps on it!) Those are both good and bad memories! :laughing:

This is one area (wheel brighteners) where a product's MSDS is vital.

Usually these WB's MSDS include the following WARNING!!:

*******For Professional Use Only*******


Yes...
I, too, got a couple of whiffs of that all too familiar HF stench.
But that was way before today's Safety&Health standards were being enforced.


Lucky to be alive!
And, as well as I am. (which some folks may feel is debatable)

Safety&Health First...and Foremost!!



Bob

 

[FUNX650]

So what is proper ppe for this? Realistically, as a full suit won't work.

At some work-places...a full suit must work.

{I suggest to always use suitable PPE to protect your skin, face, eyes, etc. from exposure.}

Some PPE recommendations that are not full-suit:
-A full face shield with safety glasses/goggles
-Gloves that are resistant to HF/fluoride-ions: Nitrile/Natural Rubber
-Long-sleeved protective overalls
-Protective Natural Rubber boots
-Protective Natural Rubber apron (covering top of boots)
-Approved respirator (complying with AS/NZS 1716) fitted with
an acid-gas filter: When working in confined-space areas;
or, when spraying a solution.

Hope this helps some.



Bob

 

[TundraPower]

Just stay away from Megs WB or anything like it. I lost two friends years ago using a similar product in a somewhat enclosed area. And don't ask me to elaborate. There are dozens of far safer products on the market to clean wheels.

 

[ihaveacamaro]

{I suggest to always use suitable PPE to protect your skin, face, eyes, etc. from exposure.}

Some PPE recommendations that are not full-suit:
-A full face shield with safety glasses/goggles
-Gloves that are resistant to HF/fluoride-ions: Nitrile/Natural Rubber
-Long-sleeved protective overalls
-Protective Natural Rubber boots
-Protective Natural Rubber apron (covering top of boots)
-Approved respirator (complying with AS/NZS 1716) fitted with
an acid-gas filter: When working in confined-space areas;
or, when spraying a solution.

Hope this helps some.



Bob

Thank you for the info Bob, it looks like I will be looking into another product lol!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The risk from HF is not the acidity, it is the method it interacts with you. Unlike something like hydrochloric acid (muriatic), HF literally will burrow through your skin and will often desensitize nerves so you may not even realize it is happening.

Worse still is that the HF is much more toxic than the typical 'strong acids' so where an HCl product will burn your skin and potentially do deep dermal damage, HF will additionally poison you.

In actual practice, in the manufacturing environment, HF is pretty much the biggest risk in the whole factory. We wear PPE as a general rule but HF requires the use of full body protective gear and the antidote is kept at all times because of the risk of permanent damage or even death should significant exposure occur.

Thank you for adding this.

Whenever the topic of HF comes up I do my best to warn people about the safety issues with dealing with this product.

What I often find is someone just casually recommending it's use without giving any of the important warnings to go with it.


:xyxthumbs: