Problem with Collinite 845 and NXT2.0

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Shadix

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Hi Friends, I'm new to detailing world and would like some advice regarding my problems.

Every time I wax my car, red btw, using collinite 845 or NXT2.0 I noticed "discoloration"(sorry I don't know any better word). In some areas the paint a little bit darker and some aren't. It create, how can I say, messy-zebra-like discoloration, and it's in random pattern every waxing. This is noticeable only in direct sunlight, and very noticeable on engine hood.

I read "all" instruction, specially on collonite on how to "shake" the wax until it gets to liquid and how to apply very thin, sometimes I don't even see the wax until it hazed.

I waxed my car using PC DA with red finishing pad, and by hand. I waxed all panel and then buff off the wax stating from the panel I waxed first after finger test.

Did I do something wrong or Should I apply one panel and buff off?

Thx for the advices..
 
Ecrissman said:
Does sound like a repainted panel.
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FUNX725 said:
Has the car ever been repainted?

:)

Bob
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I would chime in and say "no" that the car has not been repainted - having both of those products myself, and using them on my DD's - you are applying too much product and on too hot of a surface, even if you are applying in the shade. You need to just keep buffing the product off, switching to new MF's if available.

Less is more.. much much more, especially with 845. I have had several zebra sessions when I was first using each. It is amazing how little product will go a long way, esp. if you're using the PC.

it is much easier to apply thin coats, then come back with a second coat, than it is to apply too heavy a coat and struggle to get it to come off..

Look up "kissing the paint" technique for applying waxes/sealants - it may help distribute the product on the pad more evenly for you.
 
Becciasm said:
I would chime in and say "no" that the car has not been repainted - having both of those products myself, and using them on my DD's - you are applying too much product and on too hot of a surface, even if you are applying in the shade. You need to just keep buffing the product off, switching to new MF's if available.

Less is more.. much much more, especially with 845. I have had several zebra sessions when I was first using each. It is amazing how little product will go a long way, esp. if you're using the PC.

it is much easier to apply thin coats, then come back with a second coat, than it is to apply too heavy a coat and struggle to get it to come off..

See: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...hose-who-apply-sealants-machine-question.html for more 'details'
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That's a good point the OP did say he was new... since your work with Colonite you quickly realize less is more. Truth is "barely any" is more than enough.
 
I've used both NXT and 845 quite a bit and while 845 can be finicky, NXT is very forgiving. My first thought would be to wipe the areas down with either a damp mf towel or some quick detailer. If your finish irregularities are due to wax residue, that should fix it.

Bill
 
I see this on black cars if you take the wax off too soon before it has fully hazed. The only way to get rid of it is to reapply the same wax, let it completely haze (swipe test), and then buff it off.
 
FUNX725 said:
Has the car ever been repainted?

:)

Bob
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Ecrissman said:
Does sound like a repainted panel.
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No, the car is new.

Becciasm said:
I would chime in and say "no" that the car has not been repainted - having both of those products myself, and using them on my DD's - you are applying too much product and on too hot of a surface, even if you are applying in the shade. You need to just keep buffing the product off, switching to new MF's if available.

Less is more.. much much more, especially with 845. I have had several zebra sessions when I was first using each. It is amazing how little product will go a long way, esp. if you're using the PC.

it is much easier to apply thin coats, then come back with a second coat, than it is to apply too heavy a coat and struggle to get it to come off..

Look up "kissing the paint" technique for applying waxes/sealants - it may help distribute the product on the pad more evenly for you.
Click to expand...

I followed the "kissing the paint" technique. I put only about 5 of very small (about 3mm of diameter) dots of the product on my pad.. Is it still too much product?
And how long the curing time of collonite 845?

I don't know about temperature, but here in Indonesia the temp is about 32 degrees celcius, and the humidity is around 98%. I always wax the car on my garage, no direct sunlight..
 
I have had this problem with cheaper waxes. I thought the more costly ones would not be prone to it.
 
Shadix said:
No, the car is new.
I don't know about temperature, but here in Indonesia the temp is about 32 degrees celcius, and the humidity is around 98%.


90 degrees with 98% humidity may be the problem.
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Shadix said:
No, the car is new.

I don't know about temperature, but here in Indonesia the temp is about 32 degrees celcius, and the humidity is around 98%. I always wax the car on my garage, no direct sunlight..
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Hello Shadix. I'm Indonesian.

I have same experience with Collinite #845. I think the problem appears because I apply it to thick, and wipe it off before properly dry (on this link, Nick say we must wait for 40 minutes to let the wax dry: www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-ar...e-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html).

After 1 or 2 washing procces i realize the problem start to diminished.

Sorry for my English.
 
RedHare said:
Hello Shadix. I'm Indonesian.

I have same experience with Collinite #845. I think the problem appears because I apply it to thick, and wipe it off before properly dry (on this link, Nick say we must wait for 40 minutes to let the wax dry: www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html).

After 1 or 2 washing procces i realize the problem start to diminished.

Sorry for my English.
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No problem, my english is messy too :)

How long do you usually wait before buffing?
 
Shadix said:
No problem, my english is messy too :)

How long do you usually wait before buffing?
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First time I apply #845, i buff it just after 20 minutes. I try swipe test and still smeary. I know Nick say 40 minutes, but I apply it around 5:45 pm, and just 5 metres outside of mosque, without proper lighting. In Indonesia, you know what I mean in that circumstance, hahaha.

Couple days ago, I have second experience with #845. On my motorcycle, I apply it with hand, and light spray the applicator with water . I use it very thin and carefully. After 50 minutes or so i buff off the residue. Not as easy as -say it- Meg's Gold Clas wax, but it's still easy, withouth "zebra motif" result :D

I'm not expert, and just learn about detailing couple month ago. I don't know if my technique right or wrong, but I think it's work for me.
 
Very good description RedHare, thank you for your insight! Yes, 32C (90F) and 98% humidity will be rough on most any lsp's!
 
Becciasm said:
Very good description RedHare, thank you for your insight! Yes, 32C (90F) and 98% humidity will be rough on most any lsp's!
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Thank you Becciasm.

Yes, in Indonesia, we have serious problem with temperature, humidity, dust and acid rain. Every waxs or sealants that can survive 2 month or more in US, only last couple weeks or one month for us :(
 
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