Polymer and Quartz coatings?

Saluki2003

Saluki2003

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I'm seeing a lot of polymer and quartz coatings available and just wanting to hear from you guys how these stack up with high quality sealants and waxed?

Guess I'm just wondering if these products are just hype or if they are really better that "old school" sealants and waxed?



Sent from my ADR6300 using AG Online
 
I don't think its hype. It is the real deal. Not from my experience but from all the exp detailers on this site. They sure do report that it does last a lot longer.
 
I am afraid that there is a lot of hype. A few examples:

1) Polymers
Fab new technology, isn't it? Errr, nope. Been around for years. Been in your sealants for years. Been in your waxes for years. What has changed? Well, now you have an internet society striving for words to convince them and thus the marketing machine now churns much harder than it used to.

2) Quartz, nano etc.
Glass coatings? Sometimes. Sometimes, not so much! Do you realise that several products sold as nano/silica are in fact nothing more than blends of... polymers!

The marketing machine is nuts these days. A pinch of salt with supplier information is required. Reviews and tests are your friend but, sadly, you must tread with caution because there are a lot of vested interests out there.
 
Opti-Coat is based on a pre-polymer resin that once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints to form a permanent film. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive coating in use. Opti-Coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers. Ease of maintenance is greatly improved over a traditional wax or sealant, not to mention the savings over time not having to pay for someone to wax your car. Opti-Coat does not wash away and is completely resistant to bird droppings and love bugs! Another benefit is the thickness added to the clear coat, allowing the coating to take scratch damage before getting into the clear coating itself.

Opti Coat is unlike glass/nano coats because it becomes the topcoat just like another layer of clear would...instead of forming a temporary bond that will weaken and allow the product to gradually degrade. Two years is pretty impressive until you consider that it potentially can fade to no coating at all by then. Opti Coat will be the same added thickness as it was when applied until it is abrasively removed via polishing/compounding.

Our consumer version (Opti-Coat 2.0) is easy to use and available here at AG. Our pro version (Opti-Coat Pro) is available from authorized installers internationally and has an available LIFETIME warranty when applied to a new vehicle.

I agree with Mr. Megane that you must be leery of how the word "coating" is used thes days. Opti Coat is a coating like paint is a coating. No other "coating" can claim that as of yet.
 
swanicyouth said:
Any examples? How are you privy to the formula?
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I formulate car cleaning and care products for a living. I don't have all the formulations for other companies products but (certainly within the EU) an MSDS tells a lot. Whilst it is not obligatory to list everything and how much is in a product, an MSDS should provide adequate information for a professional in the area to identify the hazards which generally means that there is sufficient information to ascertain the functionality. I suspect that this is one reason why there is often reluctance to provide MSDS.

I could not provide any specific examples as some may be aware of my affiliations and I would not wish to make any waves.
 
While I don't see myself using one of these types of products, never say never. Always good to learn though.

With that in mind...

How do you remove opti-coat if you either decide you don't want it or want to try some future/new product? More specifically, how can you be sure you've removed ALL of it, without leaving some spots where it still remains? Will you begin to see "islands" of opti-coat as you abrade it away, and it's easy to see when you have removed it all?

In other words, is it a distinct layer and once you "break through" to the original clear coat you see an edge where the opti-coat remains?
 
Okay well I think I can shed some light on this topic. I have 22ple on my car and I absolutely love it. It is not for the beginner by any means. The stuff does not fill in any swirls and every defect will be seen under it. So what has to be done before applying. You must polish the car before. Then you have to spray down the car with 50/50 ISPA to get ride of all oils.

The stuff can be a pain to work with if you dont know what you are doing. I have two coats on my car. The beading is incredible and since my car sits outside all the time the added layer of protection is what I really wanted. I was amazed at how deep and wet it looks. You can also add waxes on top of it. I would pretty much recommend that everyone put it on their cars.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I've been thinking of using opti-coat once I get my paint looking good.

If I get a panel repainted will opti-coat be compatible with the repainted portions? Or is it only compatible with oem paint?

Sent from my ADR6300 using AG Online
 
Saluki2003 said:
Thanks for all the info guys. I've been thinking of using opti-coat once I get my paint looking good.

If I get a panel repainted will opti-coat be compatible with the repainted portions? Or is it only compatible with oem paint?

Sent from my ADR6300 using AG Online
Click to expand...

It will work on any painted surface. Also you have to wait three months before putting any type of wax, sealant, or coating on new paint. It needs to cure and if not moisture can get trapped beneath the clear and cause bubbling.
 
Zapa said:
Okay well I think I can shed some light on this topic. I have 22ple on my car and I absolutely love it. It is not for the beginner by any means. The stuff does not fill in any swirls and every defect will be seen under it. So what has to be done before applying. You must polish the car before. Then you have to spray down the car with 50/50 ISPA to get ride of all oils.

The stuff can be a pain to work with if you dont know what you are doing. I have two coats on my car. The beading is incredible and since my car sits outside all the time the added layer of protection is what I really wanted. I was amazed at how deep and wet it looks. You can also add waxes on top of it. I would pretty much recommend that everyone put it on their cars.
Click to expand...

Do you know if 22ple is compatible with products like CarPros Hydro2 and Reload? I'm getting my 22ple tomorrow and I just wanna know how to keep it looking its best.
 
BlackHawk said:
Do you know if 22ple is compatible with products like CarPros Hydro2 and Reload? I'm getting my 22ple tomorrow and I just wanna know how to keep it looking its best.
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Make sure you allow nothing to get on it for 12 hours while it is initially curing. Then you can drive it normally. I would not even think about washing it for atleast three days. I would say there is no use putting CarPros ontop of it. You will already have an amazing layer of protection. If you really want to get the most out of the shine and depth I would put a layer of Swissvax on top of it.

Just my personal opinion though
 
I didn't believe the hype until I but the bullet and bought Opti-Coat 2.0. I figured, at the very worst, at least I could use it on my wheels to help repel brake dust. Oh man, am I glad I bought it!

First, I think we would all agree that the application of Opti-Coat 2.0 is extremely easy; rather, it is all the prep work that is daunting. The only thing I really care about is shine. Opti-Coat does not disappoint. The fact that it lasts years is just icing on the cake.

Let me put it this way: on Monday of this week I took my 2013 Porsche 911 cabriolet into the dealer to have a problem checked out (turns out it was user error... Very embarrassing but I digress). I had the service personnel, shop workers, and a couple of the salesmen complement me on the shine and just how good the car looked. I believe opticoat had a large part in that.

Bottom line, if you have the time and funds - Go for it!
 
SR99 said:
...How do you remove opti-coat if you either decide you don't want it or want to try some future/new product? More specifically, how can you be sure you've removed ALL of it, without leaving some spots where it still remains? Will you begin to see "islands" of opti-coat as you abrade it away, and it's easy to see when you have removed it all?

In other words, is it a distinct layer and once you "break through" to the original clear coat you see an edge where the opti-coat remains?
Click to expand...

Its not necessary to remove Opti Coat to try other things. Granted, their useful life is reduced to a month or less because Opti Coat won't allow a significant bond...trying new products is still very viable. It can be removed like paint with polishing and there is some feedback when you strike through in the way the pad feels under the buffer. There's no need to fully remove it be cause its optically clear and can be topped.

Saluki2003 said:
...If I get a panel repainted will opti-coat be compatible with the repainted portions? Or is it only compatible with oem paint?
Click to expand...

It can be painted over with proper prep including scuffing. And the newly painted portion can be recoated.

Zapa said:
It will work on any painted surface. Also you have to wait three months before putting any type of wax, sealant, or coating on new paint. It needs to cure and if not moisture can get trapped beneath the clear and cause bubbling.
Click to expand...

Modern painting techniques use accelerators and most body shops heat cure the paint before returning it to the customer. Opti Coat can be applied right away in this case. Those long gassing off times are a thing of the past.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Modern painting techniques use accelerators and most body shops heat cure the paint before returning it to the customer. Opti Coat can be applied right away in this case. Those long gassing off times are a thing of the past.
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I am aware of this but I do this as a safety precaution. No reason to rush things. But yes I have noticed when using opti coat and 22ple that waxes do not last nearly as long.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Its not necessary to remove Opti Coat to try other things. Granted, their useful life is reduced to a month or less because Opti Coat won't allow a significant bond...trying new products is still very viable. It can be removed like paint with polishing and there is some feedback when you strike through in the way the pad feels under the buffer. There's no need to fully remove it be cause its optically clear and can be topped.
Click to expand...

Thanks Chris. Understanding that you have your marketing hat on, as I read that between the lines, it *IS* necessary to remove it all if you want to judge a different product on its own merits, unaffected by the remaining opti coat. That's fine.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Our consumer version (Opti-Coat 2.0) is easy to use and available here at AG. Our pro version (Opti-Coat Pro) is available from authorized installers internationally and has an available LIFETIME warranty when applied to a new vehicle.

I agree with Mr. Megane that you must be leery of how the word "coating" is used thes days. Opti Coat is a coating like paint is a coating. No other "coating" can claim that as of yet.
Click to expand...

I asked a question in another thread as to what is appropriate for a new paint job's protection. This sounds like it. Is it? And when would one apply it after painting?
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Its not necessary to remove Opti Coat to try other things
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Chris, is it safe to say no conventional car cleaning chemical can remove OC once its cured if applied right? I'm asking about strong APCs and even acid/base wheel cleaners.

I'm thinking about possibly giving a coating another go next winter, but most of the other ones limit the type of soap they recommend. 22ple even has a test on their sight saying some of the coatings they tested were removed by exposure to strong APCs.
 
SR99 said:
Thanks Chris. Understanding that you have your marketing hat on, as I read that between the lines, it *IS* necessary to remove it all if you want to judge a different product on its own merits, unaffected by the remaining opti coat. That's fine.
Click to expand...

Actually, I would advise against using Opti Coat if you plan to use a vehicle as a test bed for various products. What I meant by my post was that you can still top Opti Coat with conventional products if you like the look and feel. Durability of these could not be accurately evaluated when used on Opti Coat.

mike2977 said:
I asked a question in another thread as to what is appropriate for a new paint job's protection. This sounds like it. Is it? And when would one apply it after painting?
Click to expand...

As long as it is a modern pant system that has had hardening additives and/or heat exposure you don't have to wait to Opti Coat.

swanicyouth said:
Chris, is it safe to say no conventional car cleaning chemical can remove OC once its cured if applied right? I'm asking about strong APCs and even acid/base wheel cleaners.

I'm thinking about possibly giving a coating another go next winter, but most of the other ones limit the type of soap they recommend. 22ple even has a test on their sight saying some of the coatings they tested were removed by exposure to strong APCs.
Click to expand...

That is correct. Caustics and acids may stain Opti Coat if allowed to dry on it, but they will not permeate or etch like they will paint...and they will not break the bond like they will with glass/nano coatings. And, stains can be removed with a chemical paint cleaner in most cases.
 
Hello, im so confused, do you know the difference between glass costing, nano coating, quart coating, etc... .

And what is the cheapest that you recommend ? My only target is to protect the paint as long as possible without new job.

Thanks a lot.
 
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