Best oil for an audi

Setec Astronomy said:
Yeah, I always looked at it as cheap insurance in the case of an overheat or getting stuck in some bad stop-and-go traffic situation...but of course today the thermal control on engines is much better, the synthetics aren't really synthetics anymore, and the dino oils are a lot better than they were.
Click to expand...

You can spend a lot of money on the "gut" feeling of "cheap" insurance.

Again I speak from a fleet perspective, but outside of high performance engines and harsh climates, synthetics just do not have the overall advantage for daily drivers. Now something like an Audi, MB, etc is going to call for synthetics and thats fine, its one car, but from an overall point of view, synthetics are a tool, use them only when needed and when they can provide a return on your investment, otherwise they are a luxury and do nothing more than make you feel good inside. This is fine too, nothing wrong with being happy. Some people enjoy $200 wax, others enjoy $10 wax.
 
Durallymax said:
You can spend a lot of money on the "gut" feeling of "cheap" insurance.
Click to expand...

I knew you would be back at me with that one. I don't drive that many miles and besides, the difference in price between dino and synthetic isn't as much as it was back in the "real" Mobil 1 days. I probably spend $50 a year on oil, so if I'm spending an extra $20 for peace of mind, so be it.

If I was in a fleet situation like you, I'm sure I would be doing UOA to be getting the bang for my buck on the synthetic.
 
Bill1234 said:
If you think about it, dealers will use cheaper oil as it means more business for them, If I use 0w whatever, the engine will need less changes,It looks to me like the world has gotten to be extremely greedy =(
Click to expand...

I'm not going to derail this thread but let's set the record straight on a couple things, in order, a dealer buys oil in bulk because its cheaper, think about it, do you think they're going to have cases and cases of oil stacked up in the corner, crack them open when needed and have unused quarts everywhere?

Second, what does 0w oil have to do with less changes....nothing! Its a 0w at start up and thus gets the oil to the moving parts quicker, that's it.

Greed....I don't get what that has to do with this conversation one bit.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I knew you would be back at me with that one. I don't drive that many miles and besides, the difference in price between dino and synthetic isn't as much as it was back in the "real" Mobil 1 days. I probably spend $50 a year on oil, so if I'm spending an extra $20 for peace of mind, so be it.

If I was in a fleet situation like you, I'm sure I would be doing UOA to be getting the bang for my buck on the synthetic.
Click to expand...

Thats what the end of my post says, for one car its not a big deal really like you said, you spend $50 per year on oil, I just spend 10k today refilling ours, economies of scale. Just like using an expensive detailing product on one care versus doing it for a living calls for different outlooks as well. Just pointing out that synthetic is not necessarily always the better options so others reading do not feel they must run it or face issues down the road. This is strictly for engine oil, gear lubes and such have far more advantages when using synthetic and I consider it a must in many of those applications.
 
I know a friend personally. Uses rotella 5w40 syn in his 7.3 diesel. He goes 35k between oil changes and changes the oil filter every 7k. He does oil analysis every 7k aswell. After 35k the oil is still good... I'd run syn in everything, there is a difference.
 
Jomax said:
I know a friend personally. Uses rotella 5w40 syn in his 7.3 diesel. He goes 35k between oil changes and changes the oil filter every 7k. He does oil analysis every 7k aswell. After 35k the oil is still good... I'd run syn in everything, there is a difference.
Click to expand...

Has he tried running good dino oil to 35k? Otherwise there is no true comparison. I am not being a negative nancy, just too many claims made based on the wrong things. 35k would not be hard to do with a good dino oil.

If T6 is $24 per gallon and you will need 4 gallon jugs for an oil change, NAPA Gold filter is $11, UOA is $21 without TBN from Blackstone. at 35,000 miles your friend will have invested $251.

If he ran dino Rotella which is $13 per gallon, same filter price and on 10,000 miles intervals, he would spend $220 at the 35,000 mile mark.

Differences are in the proof, without running things side by side under the same circumstances its hard to draw conclusions. The rules for synthetics have relaxed a lot and Dino oils have gotten very very good, more people need to re-evaluate their oil.
 
5 oil tests during the 35k is a lot of money based on what Blackstone charges ($125.00) I'd get the info after a couple tests with longer intervals and go from there. I recently had a test done on my 2011 CRZ and it was my 3rd oil change and they found higher than normal amount of aluminum and iron but they stated it could still be breaking in. That said, the oil had 13, 857 miles (M1 EP and M1 syn filter) and the car is driven on the freeway half the time and very easily I should say. I'm going to do another test at about 70k but take their advice and change every 10k instead of the 15k that M1 says it can go because they also said there wasn't much active protection left in the oil.

Those of you whom haven't been tested yet, get tested!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Klasse Act said:
5 oil tests during the 35k is a lot of money based on what Blackstone charges ($125.00) I'd get the info after a couple tests with longer intervals and go from there. I recently had a test done on my 2011 CRZ and it was my 3rd oil change and they found higher than normal amount of aluminum and iron but they stated it could still be breaking in. That said, the oil had 13, 857 miles (M1 EP and M1 syn filter) and the car is driven on the freeway half the time and very easily I should say. I'm going to do another test at about 70k but take their advice and change every 10k instead of the 15k that M1 says it can go because they also said there wasn't much active protection left in the oil.

Those of you whom haven't been tested yet, get tested!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
Click to expand...

He's a mechanic and was testing it out. I think he know only checks it twice.
 
I plan on doing one about every 3, no need for the extra $10.00 for additive life left as I already know the 15k M1 EP doesn't last that long in my car. I did wring the car out on the Tail of the Dragon with that sample in there, might have something to do with it, LOL!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Price an oil change at a Porsche dealer for a real shock. The quality of the oil I use generally depends on the age of the car, how often I change the oil and how long I plan to keep the car. Straight up there is no match for synthetic oil.
 
I run synthetics because I take whatever car I currently own to the Tail of the Dragon every year, so I want the best for my car when I run it hard down there. In addition to this the synthetic oil is cheap insurance for me when driving the car normally and can honestly stay in the car longer but I must admit the key is the oil filter, its gotta be a good one!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top