1 step vs 2 step? Business owners welcome.

Ok great and thanks,

Makes sense you can take more off but you can't add more.

Will be using that to explain it to customers.
 
Great info guys. Many thanks. I'll be interested to see what kind of results I get from Mothers products.
 
I think some said its a no no because some of your post. Sounds like you have gone straight to 3m aggresive compound before trying less aggressive first.

I have done one step with m205 which you can play with different pads and ultimate compound which finishes down pretty good

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I think the main reason I always went to 3M compound was because I had either color sanded the orange peel off, (freshly painted) or I knew that compound would be necessary. Old faded cars.

I never even bothered with daily driver cars.

But now I know that with daily driver cars a polish could be used to make it shine even more now. And swirl marks

View attachment 17956
Like this

I would deal with cars like this, that the new owner just bought them and just wanted to flip them
 
1 step with m205 on orange buff n shine pad

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Here are a couple of simple definitions:

Compounding
present participle of com·pound (Verb)

Make up (a composite whole); constitute.
Mix or combine (ingredients or constituents)

Polishing
present participle of pol·ish (Verb)

Make the surface of (something) smooth and shiny by rubbing it.
Improve, refine, or add the finishing touches to.

-------------------------

We may be dealing with semantics here but regardless of the step being described you are using a compound to achieve which ever results you are after (as a compound is defined as a "mix"). We choose to refer to the coarser "first step" or a multi-step process as "compounding", and the refining step as "polishing" however both steps are essentially polishing (ie. to make the surface smooth and shiny). Now, the real question is can we (or should we) stop at that step or continue to achieve the next level of results (better, smoother results)??.

In any case, we use polishing pads and polishing compounds with the appropriate grit to achieve the end results sought.

To answer the other part of the OP's original post, in my mind (and I am sure many other will agree) anytime you are referring to a 1 step or 2 step or multistep process you should have the LSP included, unless you specify that it is a one step polishing

One step process: AIO (Clean, polish, protect)
Two step process: Polish, followed by LSP
Multi-step process: etc...

It is all about the complete nomenclature!
 
1 step with m205 on orange buff n shine pad

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Yeah, what I have learned here is instead of jumping straight to compound.

Maybe a polish can correct it and it'll be better cos less CC removal, and less steps/time and materials
 
When someone says compound I think of this as the rough cut to be followed by polishing. Like going from 800grit sandpaper and working your way up to a finer grit to deliver the best results.
 
For me a "one step" referrers to how many times I go around the car with a polisher in my hand. My one step is an AIO.
 
For me a "one step" referrers to how many times I go around the car with a polisher in my hand. My one step is an AIO.

When you say "AIO" you mean all-in-one. They're made to polish/remove swirls/restore paint in one swipe?

I imagine, as this will be my first time on my vehicles, i'll use this process: compound, polish, glaze, wax. Then maintain it with my typical car wash, protectants, and spray wax.
 
When you say "AIO" you mean all-in-one. They're made to polish/remove swirls/restore paint in one swipe?

I imagine, as this will be my first time on my vehicles, i'll use this process: compound, polish, glaze, wax. Then maintain it with my typical car wash, protectants, and spray wax.

What glaze will you be using?
 
When I bought the Mustang I saw the water spots all over the car, had it detailed, looked good. But my eye wasn't trained at the time and now I know how to identify and name imperfections. My car has micro marring and water spots, even after this "buffing."

I'm thinking I'll start with an CCS orange pad and polish, if that doesnt get results I'll throw compound on the orange pad and go to work. Followed by a white pad and polish, then blue pad and glaze/wax. Sound like a good plan of attack?

If the grabber blue Stang in your avater is the Stang you are referring too, here is what I did and was very happy with results.

Hope this helps.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...car-show-prep-10-gt500-meticulous-detail.html

BTW: I have tried at least 10 different detail sprays and QD's, the one I found that works the best in terms of gloss and shine on this color is Megs Last Touch diluted 50/50. For some reason it just works on this color.
 
If the grabber blue Stang in your avater is the Stang you are referring too, here is what I did and was very happy with results.

Hope this helps.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...car-show-prep-10-gt500-meticulous-detail.html

BTW: I have tried at least 10 different detail sprays and QD's, the one I found that works the best in terms of gloss and shine on this color is Megs Last Touch diluted 50/50. For some reason it just works on this color.


Yup, that's my DD. I'll give your article a read. I hear the paint on these mustangs is very hard. Is that true? Do you think my future kit is up to the task?
 
When I bought the Mustang I saw the water spots all over the car, had it detailed, looked good. But my eye wasn't trained at the time and now I know how to identify and name imperfections. My car has micro marring and water spots, even after this "buffing."

I'm thinking I'll start with an CCS orange pad and polish, if that doesnt get results I'll throw compound on the orange pad and go to work. Followed by a white pad and polish, then blue pad and glaze/wax. Sound like a good plan of attack?
Thats funny. It's one of the biggest issues I have with customers/friends. They all say "but no one will notice that but you!". That's true, however I notice because I fully aware on what good paint is and what bad paint is... and I take pride in taking care of ANYTHING I own. Usually after a 50/50 shot they are convinced, which is great because I also get the upside of doing basic (and correct) washes as well so the finish is not messed up within the next car wash.
 
I also use 205 (orange LC pad or recently optimum MF polishing pad) for my 1 steps followed by collonite 476s.

As others mentionned sometimes mixing a little bit doesnt hurt, i used 2 beads of 205 and 1 of 105 on this red patriot and came out real nice, swirl free

Although i would need a go to AIO and D151 seems to be a good prospect from what im reading



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Thats funny. It's one of the biggest issues I have with customers/friends. They all say "but no one will notice that but you!". That's true, however I notice because I fully aware on what good paint is and what bad paint is... and I take pride in taking care of ANYTHING I own. Usually after a 50/50 shot they are convinced, which is great because I also get the upside of doing basic (and correct) washes as well so the finish is not messed up within the next car wash.

My family notices... (All Gear heads, mechanics, auto body. Auto body shop managers,painters, preppers. estimators, shop owners)

But they don't really care...

When I told my uncle I will be charging $200 for
Clay,buff,polish,wax (paint correction only)
He asked me why? being the fact that he manages a shop, he can hire a detailer for a lot lower prices. The other one said those are crazy prices. (Not his exact words)

I have realized (still new to this and always learning)

There's daily drivers, which is where there business is. Detailers too, but for me I want customs, classics etc...

Someone that I see driving that has a body kit, rims/wheels, lowered, classics, customs, etc... I think those are my clients. They've spent a lot of money on their car. So why not spend money on taking care of their spent money? These are the cars I want to start leaving my business card on the window. (For the most part)

But will also be doing daily drivers. It makes a lot more sense now (learned it here on AG) to charge for exterior detail or interior detail, or a combo for daily drivers. No need to give them a show car finish. (Swirl free finish) They just want something clean and shiny. (I think)

Paint correction will be a whole other process/order on my detail menu.
 
My family notices... (All Gear heads, mechanics, auto body. Auto body shop managers,painters, preppers. estimators, shop owners)

But they don't really care...

When I told my uncle I will be charging $200 for
Clay,buff,polish,wax (paint correction only)
He asked me why? being the fact that he manages a shop, he can hire a detailer for a lot lower prices. The other one said those are crazy prices. (Not his exact words)



I have realized (still new to this and always learning)

There's daily drivers, which is where there business is. Detailers too, but for me I want customs, classics etc...

Someone that I see driving that has a body kit, rims/wheels, lowered, etc... I think those are my clients. They've spent a lot of money on their car. So why not spend money on taking care of their spent money?

But will also be doing daily drivers. It makes a lot more sense now (learned it here on AG) to charge for exterior detail or interior detail, or a combo for daily drivers. No need to give them a show car finish. (Swirl free finish) They just want something clean and shiny. (I think)

Paint correction will be a whole other process/order on my detail menu.

Yes most people just want a clean car to drive not show car finish. I do make most of my money off paint correction it's a higher price point but took me a while to get to that point. I went to a lot of car shows and meets to get this kind of customer.
 
I just go to shows and meets and start talking to people I have my company shirt on when I go. Most the time they ask if I detail cars and then we start talking about what I can do for them.
 
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