Polishing Clear Coated Wheels Need Some Advice

[WRXINXS]

I have clear coated alloy wheels on my 93 RX-7. Some light clear coat failure on the edges of the wheel faces are the only problem with them. The faces are coating with Opti-Guard but before they were coated, some grunge from the heavy cleaning process must have settled on the wheel faces, or they were not polished well enough. and now there are dark spots under the coating on the wheel faces (Not where the CC failure is).



I want to re-do them myself and was wondering what process I should use. Should I use a Mothers Mini-Power Ball, or do them by hand with pinnacle foam applicators? I also have some CCS Euro Foam Hand Applicators in white/orange and red. I assume white might be my best choice?


I understand a good paint polish can be used on clear coated wheels and I have:


M105
M205
Menz PowerFinish
Optimum Polish II
Optimum Finish Polish

I was thinking of going Optimum Polish II by hand with the pinnacle foam applicators or Euro applicators and re-applying Opti-Coat 2.0 after polishing. Not much oil in Optimum Polish so I was thinking it might be better than M205 in this case.


I have never polished wheels before so that is why I am asking. The first time they were done by someone else for me after I bought the car in November 2012. I had some medical problems at the time that prevented me from physically doing them myself but I can do them myself now.

(BTW I will clay them with Optimum Opti-Eraser fine grade or clay before I start polishing.)



Thanks for looking and any tips/hints are appreciated,
Drew:xyxthumbs:

 

[hernandez.art13]

Maybe an APC and a wire brush to clean the wheels first? View attachment 18021
Got this from CG yesterday. The APC is a concentrate, interior/exterior. The Megs looks good as well. (Never used it though)

 

[Kevin Cullen]

If you have some, IronX them while washing to make the claying process easier. Personally I would use the power ball (dont like doing things by hand). Optimum polish II can remove swirls and finish polish at the same time so that would be my choice as well. Test M205 but it may not have the bite you might need. I would also go with Optimum polish II because you are coating the wheel with an Optimum product and the two should be made to go together. You could clean the wheels agian just before the Opti coat to remove any oils that may be present.

I am sure Art did not mean use a WIRE brush on your wheels because that would be more than BAD.

 

[WRXINXS]

Thanks guys, in for more opinions if anyone has any other thoughts. I was looking at the Mothers Power Ball mini.

 

[WRXINXS]

Should I remove the existing Opti-Guard coat with polish before I use Iron X and claybar? I just figured that if I did the clay and Iron X first, it would just get what is on top of the Opti-Guard.

Also, anyone have experience with the Mothers PowerBall Mini?

 

[Wes Bremec]

I've used LC hydrotech 3 inch pads via gg 3 inch da and the wolfgang twins with success. Pick the least aggressive product and go from there. I would use the powerball if you don't have a small da available.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I have clear coated alloy wheels on my 93 RX-7. Some light clear coat failure on the edges of the wheel faces are the only problem with them.

and now there are dark spots under the coating on the wheel faces (Not where the CC failure is).

The above two issues are why I've always been a big fan of solid, uncoated aluminum wheels. Both issues above are somewhat complicated to fix if the goal is a wheel finish that looks like nothing ever happened, which is usually the goal.

With solid aluminum wheel, the worst thing that can happen is the aluminum will oxidize but the good news is any quality aluminum polish and some elbow grease will remove the oxidation and restore the new look. You can't say that about any other type of wheel.

Sad to say, my new truck has black powder coated wheels. Sometime down the road I will replace them with uncoated aluminum wheels for the reasons stated above... plus I've never liked the black wheel look.

I want to re-do them myself and was wondering what process I should use.

Couple of tips...

Wheel paint is different than body panel paint, it's usually harder and more resistant to corrosion. These features also make it harder to polish. So you'll probably need the compounds for sure.

As for the damage under the clear layer, you'll need to remove the clear layer of paint, undo the damage and then re-clear the affected area. If the affected area is aluminum I would opt for polishing it and skip the application of more clear paint as this will become an ongoing maintenance issue.

Can you post a picture?

 

[WRXINXS]

Mike, sorry it took so long to post pictures. Here they are:

The spots are under the Opti-Guard because they will not clean off and were there after OG installation.

Wheels were clayed/Iron X/Polished before Opti-Guarded by very reputable detailer. He said there was lots of pitting/clear coat failure in the barrels and "Spots on the edge of the face".

I don't know if these are the spots he was talking about, or if somehow after using wheel brightner and a slew of chemicals to clean the barrels, (Previous owner had never cleaned them) some junk from the cleaning dripped on the wheel and was not noticed before application of Opti-Guard?

Basically I am wondering if I should go after those spots and recoat or if I am just wasting time because they are permanent clear coat failure/pitting spots? I know I need to get the wheels refinished at some point.

Drew

 

[WRXINXS]

Mike,

I talked to my detailer and I think I have this problem figured out. He belives it is the beginning stages of CC failure do to the fact that he used Megs Wheel Brightner, IronX, A2Z cleaner, Griots Wheel Cleaner and fully polished the wheels and it did not take the spots off.

The wheels are 20 years old and spent most of their life in Minnasota (Think road salt).

I might just leave them alone.