Best Drying Aid?

ihaveacamaro said:
I meant protection. The other two don't provide any protection that would
inhibit a product like a wax or a sealant, while aquawax does.
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If you don't mind Roshan...
Would you please post your definition of "protection".
Thanks.


Also...Is the following correct?
It sounds like you're attempting to have a vehicle that's not only "dry"...
but has "bare" paint, as well... after its washing/cleaning-session...
even if a "drying-aid" must be used.



:)

Bob
 
ihaveacamaro said:
Thank you guys for your helpful info!

I should've mentioned that I was not looking for something with wax in it.

So it seems like it's between CG speed wipe and FK 425 (thanks swanicyouth for those suggestions).

Any other suggestions that do not contain wax? I would like to have a clean surface ready for a paint sealant if needed so that's why d156/aquawax won't do it for me.
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I think its a toss up between those two. I would probably go with whatever is cheaper. But, you can get Adam's detail spray by the gallon, it just costs a little more.

I got a gallon of M34 for 10 bucks. I hardly use it, but I think those two are much better. M34 seems like a lot of water (not very [c]); so it may not be tops for a drying aid. The CG and FK seem more concentrated to me. IMO, spraying a product that's not very concentrated kind of defeats the purpose when your trying to dry.
 
FUNX725 said:
If you don't mind Roshan...
Would you please post your definition of "protection".
Thanks.


Also...Is the following correct?
It sounds like you're attempting to have a vehicle that's not only "dry"...
but has "bare" paint, as well... after its washing/cleaning-session...
even if a "drying-aid" must be used.



:)

Bob
Click to expand...

Let's call protection anything that would inhibit good curing/sealing/whatever it is that sealants and waxes do...

For example, putting something like d156 before a sealant would inhibit the sealant bonding. But using something like ONR before the sealant does not inhibit the sealant bonding (as per Dr. G himself).


As per your second question, that is exactly correct. :)
 
I use the Dodo Time to Dry every time.

Stuff works great, plus it pretty much eliminates any water spots that might be starting and leaves the surface ready for whatever you use next.

It's expensive. I wish they sold it in larger sizes.
 
I don't know if anyone had ever tried this, but I wonder if adding a little vinegar to your rinse water would help? Maybe get one of those pesticide hose sprayers where you fill the container with vinegar and set the dilution to something like 2 oz per gallon or whatever. It auto-mixes the contents of the container with the water at the ratio you set. The ratios range from a tablespoon up to many ounces per gallon.

Moving the car into the shade helps, but not always possible.

In-line filters can help too. I've used this one: Orbit Calcium Inhibitor Filter-10109W at The Home Depot
It's not perfect but it helps.
 
SR99 said:
I don't know if anyone had ever tried this, but I wonder if adding a little vinegar to your rinse water would help? Maybe get one of those pesticide hose sprayers where you fill the container with vinegar and set the dilution to something like 2 oz per gallon or whatever. It auto-mixes the contents of the container with the water at the ratio you set. The ratios range from a tablespoon up to many ounces per gallon.

Moving the car into the shade helps, but not always possible.

In-line filters can help too. I've used this one: Orbit Calcium Inhibitor Filter-10109W at The Home Depot
It's not perfect but it helps.
Click to expand...

Problem with vinegar is that it'll strip your wax. Used it for years for removing water spots from boats. It's just hard on your sealant.
 
Poorboys Spray & Wipe. No wax, no gloss enhancers, just a pure WW. I use it mainly as a drying aid. Works in sun or shade.
 
Hi JAF06SE, yes the fact that vinegar can be used to remove water spots is what got me thinking that a diluted solution via the rinse water might help with keeping the spots loose enough to just wipe away.

I don't know what ratio you'd need for it to be effective, but I wouldn't think a diluted solution (e.g. an ounce or two per gallon) would affect a topcoat. A quick way to find out would be, after you've washed your car, fill a gallon bucket with your hose water, add an ounce of vinegar, stir, and toss it on the hood. See if that dries/wipes more spot-free than the rest of the car.

I'd gladly try it except I seldom do full hose washes, so it could be a while. Worst case you'd have to re-wax the hood.
 
Yeah I use Adams because it just works great and leaves a just waxed looked. I will probably try D156 next.
 
Best drying aids I've used are PB spray & gloss and Optimum ID&GE.
 
Ihaveacamaro , if your looking for a clean surface for paint sealant then use an ipa chemical such as menzerna top inspection. You can use it as a dryin Aid and then have the best adhesion for any LSP on your paintwork:)
 
This is just a general comment. I love how some of these topics are coming back from the dead. I'm all for keeping information consolidated, so I think this is a good practice to post new questions that pertain to old topics in the old threads. Makes searching for this type of information way way easier, IMO.
 
roguegeek said:
This is just a general comment. I love how some of these topics are coming back from the dead. I'm all for keeping information consolidated, so I think this is a good practice to post new questions that pertain to old topics in the old threads. Makes searching for this type of information way way easier, IMO.
Click to expand...

I find searching damn near impossible. At least on the mobile app, maybe its easier on a computer. I'll put in some key words and a million threads pop up
 
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