Jay's new muscle car projects - Wetsand, cut and buff...

I'm looking forward to seeing this done, as I have a similar situation comeing up in a few weeks. My Brother in law is doing a ground up original restoration of a 66 MKI Cooper S with an $18K paint job.
I've already made the decision to look after the car using the new PBL product line but I'm kinda freaking out a bit as this is the my first time doing this type of job.

I've been a detailer for 10 years and have made a slow migration to mobile detailing over the past 18 months and I'm a big fan of the cyclo (had one for 5 years).

I'll be following this closely, cause I've never done a wet sand or used a rotary before. There is one thing I need to ask though...

Is it always necessary to wetsand, cut and buff a restored car? And if so would it be worthwhile going to a wreckers to get some practice panels?

Sent from the land of Oz, Perth
 
If it is going to be wet sanded...why do they put the emblems, hood pins, etc. back on after painting?

Wouldn't it be better to leave them off, so you can cut and buff every square inch on a Show Car?
 
AutoImage said:
Is it always necessary to wetsand, cut and buff a restored car?
Click to expand...

The idea behind wetsanding a custom paint job is to make the surface completely flat as possible by removing any orange peel, surface texture, dry spray or mottling.

Then compound and polish to remove the sanding marks and restore gloss and clarity.

I've seen paint jobs come out of paint booths that for the most part looked perfect as in the paint was flat as possible, no orange peel at all and thus no need to sand. This is a sign of an expert painter who has their system completely dialed-in. But these types of paint jobs would be the exception, not the rule.


AutoImage said:
And if so would it be worthwhile going to a wreckers to get some practice panels?
Click to expand...


For sure.

You don't want to learn how to wetsand, cut and buff on something important. Get some panels and practice first.


:)
 
allenk4 said:
If it is going to be wet sanded...why do they put the emblems, hood pins, etc. back on after painting?

Wouldn't it be better to leave them off, so you can cut and buff every square inch on a Show Car?
Click to expand...


I don't know the answer to these questions, I was hoping they would leave off all the trim and emblems as well as bumpers etc.

I'll see Jay this weekend and find out what the deal is...



:)
 
Radarryan said:
Oh man, I'm excited to see the write up on this one! I have a feeling the word epic will come to mind... Maybe a taped (or live) broadcast is in order, hint hint, Mr. Yancy? :laughing:

I can see it now... A "Helping in the Heartland" type project, but more aptly named, Perfecting Jay's Chevelle Because it has a FACTORY 454, or something along those lines... :hungry:
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me!
 
Hey guys, thought I would give a quick shout out to you regarding the cars progress.

The body shop had to put on the fender emblems because they bolt on behind the inner fender wells {not like the new car stick on type} and the bumpers and hood pins go on because they take hours to adjust to make them fit correctly.

I would not like to buff the car to a show car finish and then take the chance of scratching the paint by trying to install bumpers, trim, etc.

The car is getting the new black vinyl top and factory interior installed as we speak, next is Dakota VHX guages and dash install, then new Vintage Air is going in.

After that the car is going to my nephews brake and suspension shop to have the four wheel disc brakes, close ratio steering gear, Eibach lowering springs, KYB shocks, BMR sway bars, and Hotchkis tubular control arms installed, as well as some motor work to install the factory cowl induction air cleaner setup and new Heddman HTC coated headers.

I am still shooting to have the car done by Memorial day weekend if all goes well... Should be a BADASS SS454 resto-mod when its done and I cant wait for the Autogeek crew to get busy with it!!

Thanks agin Mike, I know we are gonna hit this one outta the park!!
 
Jay if you have not bought the VHX gauges, Danny can get you the best price.Tim.
 
jrocknroll said:
Hey guys, thought I would give a quick shout out to you regarding the cars progress.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the update Jay....


Here's a fresh picture Jay sent me of the vinyl top going on...


Jays_1971_Chevelle_010.jpg




:dblthumb2:
 
jrocknroll said:
Hey guys, thought I would give a quick shout out to you regarding the cars progress.

The body shop had to put on the fender emblems because they bolt on behind the inner fender wells {not like the new car stick on type} and the bumpers and hood pins go on because they take hours to adjust to make them fit correctly.

I would not like to buff the car to a show car finish and then take the chance of scratching the paint by trying to install bumpers, trim, etc.
Click to expand...

Makes sense.

If the wet sand, cut and buff was being done in-house by the body shop...would everything be done before the emblems, bumpers etceteras were replaced?
 
Those VHX gauges look killer.Carbon Fiber backdrop and light up in red.Easy to program and only needs a couple of extra grounds (And $) but well worth it.I put blue lit ones in my 57 and love how they function.
 
Awesome car, I would love to do a build from the ground up like this one day. Excited to see finished results.
 
***Update***


Jay's Pro Touring 1971 Chevelle is moving right along. Here's an outside shot he sent me today.


Jays_1971_Chevelle_013.jpg



Here she is on a trailer heading for Randy's Hot Rod Shop to have the new gages installed and hooked up.

Jays_1971_Chevelle_014.jpg



Stay tuned...

:props:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top