How do you get off GTechniq C4?

I think Mark is meticulous enough to know his prep work was good. Even is silicone was the problem, it doesn't seem like it's hurt any of the other products that he's used. That's not a knock on Gtechniq, but it does tell me that the product might not play as easily with residual silicone as other products may have.

Regardless, there's still the problems of ruined trim, and somehow removing the C4 that Mark is going to need help with. He needs to get this fixed asap and I'm sure Gtechniq will have some options for him.
 
I know you're particular Mark, that's why I doubt it was your prep.

Besides, even if it was residual 'something or another', it didn't seem to bother the other products you've applied. That alone tells me those products are more user friendly.
 
I do truly, and deeply appreciate all of your input, help, and observations with this folks!

I'm actually not sure of the causes of this, nor neither if I can find a solution to improve the look of how these trim parts currently look?

I'm sort of believing too, what has been previously said, that any strong cleaners or solvents may actually proove to be more a detriment, than a benefit at this point, to try to remove the C4?

I could also be wrong?

About the only thing coming to mind at this point to perhaps improve the look of these parts, would be to possibly just clean mildly again, and to perhaps try another product that contains a black dye, such as Solution Finish? It's only a $30 gamble to find out? :-)
Mark
 
Mark:

I realize this might not be a suggestion you want to hear, but what about an IPA wipe and try to apply the C4 again to a small area? Sometimes more of the same product will clean up the mess left by an initial application.

Maybe something to talk about with the GTechniq folks tomorrow.

Jim

PS Sorry about going off-topic
 
Mark:

I realize this might not be a suggestion you want to hear, but what about an IPA wipe and try to apply the C4 again to a small area? Sometimes more of the same product will clean up the mess left by an initial application.

Maybe something to talk about with the GTechniq folks tomorrow.

Jim

PS Sorry about going off-topic


That idea does sound logical, and feasible, and has also crossed my mind, although only briefly.

I do have 1/2 the Bottle of C4 remaining, I checked it about a week ago, and it is still in a liquid state in its bottle.
 
Never had that kind of problem with C4, hope you get help from GTechniq
 
First, I like threads like this where a forum member is having an issue and other's chime in to help, this is just one example of the high caliber people this forum attracts.


The folks at GTechniq are good people and I'm sure they will do everything they can on their end to see this issue resolved. I've been very impressed with GTechniq products to date and plan on using the GTechniq EXO Ultra Durable Hybrid Coating on a black 2012 MB350 on Saturday, June 22nd. (watch for the write-up)


Travis aka TrKent is a guy of professional character with a lot of experience, and Sean Kelly is not only a personal friend of mine but also a man of professional character with a lot of experience, so you have two Pros available to provide help.


Subscribed...


:dblthumb2:
 
Mark,

Not sure if you've tried this yet but it's always worked better than anything for me when I really want to get trim CLEAN!


How to restore exterior black plastic trim

Question: But what about exterior trim that's been neglected and now looks horrible?


Answer: Well in some server case nothing you pour out of a bottle, scoop out of a jar or spray out of a pump spray is going to perform a miracle and undo years of neglect. The question I ask is who did the neglecting?

If you're detailing cars and a customer has neglected their car's exterior including swirls in the paint, water spots on the glass, brown tires, brake dust a 1/4" thick on the front wheels and of course exterior plastic trim that no longer looks like exterior trim, then the first thing you do is educate the customer and point out that it is due to neglected that the trim is in it's current condition.

Next, you under promise and over deliver. Let them know that you'll do your best but again, you're not a miracle worker and also consider what your customer is willing to pay for your services. Time is money and you can easily invest a lot of time into just trying to improve exterior trim for not much money. So educate your customer on the reality of the damage at hand and simply state that you'll do the best you can.

It's important to document on your Vehicle Inspection Form the condition of the trim and even take one or two before pictures so after the work in case your customer forgets how horrible the trim looked BEFORE you started you have documented evidence to set the record straight.

When trim has been neglected to the point that it is turning white, this is a sign of oxidation and just like car paint in order to restore the original black color you need to safely remove as much of the oxidation as possible.


Machine vs Hand
Now you can scrub the trim by hand using a brush, a wash mitt or even something more aggressive but here's a way to use a tool you probably already own and let the machine do all the work.

Black_Plastic_Trim_027.jpg


Black_Plastic_Trim_028.jpg


Black_Plastic_Trim_029.jpg




Here's is the plastic after just machine scrubbing... note by removing the dead, oxidized plastic it already looks 100% better, this is your goal. Try to get the trim looking better by cleaning first.

Black_Plastic_Trim_030.jpg



Here's the plastic trim after applying a trim sealant. Not I used a hand scrub brush to work the sealant into the cracks, crevices and the pebble textured surface.

Black_Plastic_Trim_031.jpg



Before
This is what oxidized black plastic looks like, the upper surface is actually turning white do to both exposure to the sun and breaking down. You need to remove this before applying a dressing or a sealant.
Black_Plastic_Trim_032.jpg



After
Compared to how this plastic trim started it is now 100% improved and will add the overall appearance to a freshly detailed car instead of distract from it.
Black_Plastic_Trim_033.jpg






Except for small stuff... I clean all plastic trim and even tires using a DA Polisher with a brush and an APC or dedicated tire cleaner. It takes ALL the work out of hand scrubbing and give me better results every time.


Best darn tire cleaning brush I've ever used!


Yep, the Porter Cable with a Cyclo brush mounted to it instead of the backing plate! Takes ALL the elbow grease out of getting old, slimy tire dressings off, blooming, (the brown residue that builds-up when antiozonants meet ozone in the air), and deteriorated dead rubber.

Best_Tire_Brush_005.jpg




Here's the tires I need to clean. They have some type of slimy tire dressing on them and the white letters look kind of brownish...

TUF_SHINE_Review_001.jpg



I'm going to apply Tuf Shine and the directions for Tuf Shine state that all previously applied dressings need to be removed in order for the Tuf Shine Clearcoat. I started out using the Tuf Shine Brush and it as well as any good tire brush will get the job done but ding dang scrubbing tires surgically clean is a LOT of work and it's awkward because the tires are low to the ground and vertical faced.


First I sprayed on the Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner...

Best_Tire_Brush_000.jpg




Then I let the machine do the work... now I'll let the pictures do the talking...

Best_Tire_Brush_001.jpg


Best_Tire_Brush_002.jpg


Best_Tire_Brush_003.jpg


Best_Tire_Brush_004.jpg



After scrubbing the tires clean I moved the Monte Carlo back into the studio to get the paint polished but here's how the tires look now, perfectly clean and ready for application of the Tuf Shine Clearcoat.

Best_Tire_Brush_009.jpg




Just an option to consider...


:dblthumb2:
 
Because C4 will not turn his trim white unless it was already there. Which means it was not preped correctly. Is that detailed enough for you?

There may be some truth to what you say here RSurfer.

That perhaps there was an inability (or my inability) to correctly prep the part? Still, in the pics I again provided in this thread, one can see the parts looking pretty nice, almost mirroring Mike Phillip's post above, in that they did look quite nice. That pretty nice look went away quite quickly though.

This part was by no means a new, or newish part, the part is 15 years old, and although the first 6 years of ownership the vehicle was garage kept, for a good 9 years here in the Desert Southwest the vehicle only sat under a carport, and the rear of the vehicle faces east.

So, with that said, and regardless of how well I've tried to maintain my truck, the ravages of time, UV degradation, and the past use of inadequate OTC products had taken its toll.

It was of course the main reason I sought a restorative type product, because I knew these particular parts had seen better days. And over the many years, they were only ever treated with OTC products, which as you no doubt know, often do nothing more than offer short term looks, and very short term protection.

I in fact did more recently replaced the central step pad, bought that new piece from LMC Truck, and that part was approx 6 months old prior to application of C4.

The reason for replacing that particular part was it was looking quite shoddy.

In retrospect, it may have been wiser, and more cost effective to entirely replace both pieces of the top Step Pad Trim?

I didn't really think the larger long portion looked that bad, and could be very nicely restored with the right product.

Perhaps the old adage can apply, that sometimes, one cannot make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

There's the fact though, that all other trim pieces on the truck were cleaned, prepped, and treated with CQuartz DLX, and IMO the front Trim, and License Plate Holder took as much, or even possibly more of a beating from the sun/uv, and they came out superb, and look brand new. The Seals around all glass were also treated with CQ DLX, and honestly, I don't think they looked that good, with such a high black luster, when the truck was brand spanking new.
Mark
 
Mark, first of let me apologize for coming on so strong. It upsets me to read about people slamming a product that didn't work for them, when in fact it was not the product fault. That step bumper is on a horizontal collecting water and contaminates whereas the other trim pieces are on a vertical surface. I would have used a water spot remover to remove the oxidation prior to using C4. Without doing this prep, you will not get the results your looking for, ask me how I know. LOL. Vertical trim pieces need only be cleaned with an apc and a good ipa wipe down. When first using C4, I used way to much and tried to get it off with bad results. I finally left it alone and recoated it months later. Hope GTechniq can help you solve your problem.
 
Mark, first of let me apologize for coming on so strong. It upsets me to read about people slamming a product that didn't work for them, when in fact it was not the product fault. That step bumper is on a horizontal collecting water and contaminates whereas the other trim pieces are on a vertical surface. I would have used a water spot remover to remove the oxidation prior to using C4. Without doing this prep, you will not get the results your looking for, ask me how I know. LOL. Vertical trim pieces need only be cleaned with an apc and a good ipa wipe down. When first using C4, I used way to much and tried to get it off with bad results. I finally left it alone and recoated it months later. Hope GTechniq can help you solve your problem.

No RSurfer, that's quite alright my friend. If I messed up the application by poor prep, I'm happy that someone can come forward, and pinpoint the exact cause of the problems.

What I'm not feeling too happy about is appearing to be dissing such a product, which I;m sure the GTechniq products have little peer. GTTechniq C4 may actually be the most economical product in truth, if it lasts longer than all other products on the market.

That it is many of the Silicone-Based products that are in reality the most expensive, because after one rain, or wash, they are gone, and cease to protect.

Other products may have a better ability to "beautify" more easily, but don't last, or last as long as C4. I think I might just find out how durable C4 is, because it will probably be a bear to now try to remove.

GTechRob has been in touch with me privately, asked some questions, some pertaining to the viscosity of the product when I recieved it-used it, and also if I now notice any "crystalline" look to the product on the trim?

I gather his questions were to possibly determine whether the product I had gotten was somehow flawed, or old? And that thought had occured to me this morning,m that perhaps age of the product could've been an influence also? Of this I really just don't know?

The product seemed quite "fluid" out of the bottle, didn't appear in any way to be syrupy, but set up time (would that be called "flashing"?) was very fast, that it was virtually impossible to go back, even an inch or two back over where I had just applied the product, and was trying to get an even finish on the trim.

Perhaps like food, a product like this does have a usable shelf life, and I'm not sure exactly how fast this sort of product flies off the shelves? That's a question that maybe only the AutoGeek Folks would know, how long such products stay in storage befpre being sold-shipped?

I think you, as well as many others had participated in my original thread about GT C4 a while back. If you may recall, my sole gripes about C4 was how small the bottle was, and how it seemed to take a lot of product to do what I felt was properly coat this Trim on the Rear Step Bumper.

I felt at the time, that the looks were good enough, in fact I was quite happy, that I felt inclined to snap some pics, and show you folks how it turned out. The before and after was a really nice improvement.

But the results changed quite quickly, and with that being said, you again may be correct, that prep and application was an issue, the part was maybe too far gone to get long lasting results, or the product may have been slightly old, and not fresh?

As I close this post, about the only logical direction I can think of taking at this point, is to again clean multiple times with good cleaners, and a scrub brush. And then perhaps a number of full strength IPA Wipedowns, and see what happens, and go from there?

Although I don't have any Cyclo Brushes to throw on my DA, I imagine I can mimic similar scrubbing methods by hand instead.

And if at that point I then determine the parts seem unsalvageable, then I think at that point, it would be best simply replacing those parts.

Thanks again all!, and hope you haven't minded this long winded response, Mark
 
In the future is you have any questions mark I be happy yo help !!I am Master Detailer at Gtechniq North America .You can reach me onmy Facebook account.
 
Silicones are getting an unfairly bad name here! Removal of silicones is far from impossible. With respect, and as someone who has done astro-chemical research and talked with many astrophysicists - a topic like this is rarely one where an astrophysics expect will be considered a definitive source! The problem is the underlying material - the cleaners which would effectively remove silicones would undoubtedly do damage to your plastic trim. Removal from paint or metal is another matter because you can use strong solvents.

For reference, silicones are in all manner of products. Most tyre and trim dressings will be silicone based, whether it is PERL, UTTG or whatever.
 
In the future is you have any questions mark I be happy yo help !!I am Master Detailer at Gtechniq North America .You can reach me onmy Facebook account.


Hi Chris,

With two posts on our forum... welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:


Looking forward to some write-ups with before, process and after pictures. Do you have anything coming up?



:xyxthumbs:
 
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