So I have not gotten any thing from a store in a long time. The only time I go in is to look to see if I can find any cool tools I can use to clean the car. I was in advance autos the other day. Well a few weeks ago and saw they are selling griot's garage stuff I said to my self I see there stuff online all the time. I'll try it out and save me the shipping got the interior cleaner and and interior dressing good stuff. I have pick up some ammonyc wheel cleaner which I think is called plum great stuff but for a wheel cleaner being 20 bucks its only 16oz and the shipping cost. Is to high for me I found the heavy duty wheel cleaner from griot's garage is pretty much the same stuff if you smell them its identical plus the griot's garage is 35oz for 20 bucks works about same great for dirty rims and tires. Really if I had 100 bucks to blow I would buy some chemical guys stuff you can get a lot of stuff for 100 bucks but be careful. What you get I love a lot of there stuff but there is some stuff I hate. P.M me if you want to buy some of the cg stuff it is really the best bang for value you can get alot for 100 buck or less I can help you out..
Questions from a newbie...
- Thread starter nolimit06
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MarkD51
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- Oct 15, 2012
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Yes, I took a look at your pics. Your car is no different from millions of daily drivers, they get dirty, and get dirty quick!
Heck, vehicles here in this dust bowl desert that I live in, they get dirty just standing still! Dust storms, high winds, dust devils, and rain, which often we see 29 drops of rain, and all it does is make a vehicle filthy in 2 minutes flat.
You car needs pretty much a good "dog bath". That's what I call it.
Many say start with the interior, and I agree, a good place to start.
There's many tools which are a must. A vacuum cleaner. A soft detail brush or two, and even save some old soft toothbrushes after they've gone kaput from brushing your teeth. Careful with toothbrushes though, they can scratch the paint. Even small trim paint brushes, Horse Hair can be good for gentle scrubbing, like door jambs, under hood, etc.
An all purpose cleaner. Simple Green is a common one, but I'm not that impressed with this product that much anymore. I think a better commonly found product is Zep Orange Citrus Degreaser, and All Purpose Cleaner, and this can usually be found at Lowes-Home Depot Also.
I commonly mix this cleaner 1:1, or 50/50 with water, it works great all around, and at this mix ratio, it is not too harsh to damage or melt paint, yet strong enough to clean dirty tires, under hood-engine, door jambs, wheels, and it is also great to have around the house, for countertops, etc etc etc. I even use this stuff for pre-treating spots on laundry before washing, floors, all around general purpose.
There's better, both here and elsewhere, but this is good, easy to get, and about $11/gal, which will make 2 gallons at a 1:1 ratio. Put the mix in a small spray bottle, and go to town!
As for cleaning engine compartments, the most important thing to protect is the Alternator. You don't want to hose this down with water, or spray cleaners into it. I usually use compressed air, and towels to mop up, and dry the under hood components ASAP after a wash down.
You no doubt need paint correction, like a good polish, and while machine makes short work of such, such processes can be done gently by hand if you have the time.
Do one panel at a time.
And as you mentioned, you seem to have an issue with a shady area. This is an important thing about detailing, have good shade, and work on cool paint, always. There's only one process I'll do in broad sunlight, and that is shampooing carpeting, and fabric seats. Otherwise, nothing else gets done in the sun, regardless of manufacturer's claims otherwise.
Mark
Heck, vehicles here in this dust bowl desert that I live in, they get dirty just standing still! Dust storms, high winds, dust devils, and rain, which often we see 29 drops of rain, and all it does is make a vehicle filthy in 2 minutes flat.
You car needs pretty much a good "dog bath". That's what I call it.
Many say start with the interior, and I agree, a good place to start.
There's many tools which are a must. A vacuum cleaner. A soft detail brush or two, and even save some old soft toothbrushes after they've gone kaput from brushing your teeth. Careful with toothbrushes though, they can scratch the paint. Even small trim paint brushes, Horse Hair can be good for gentle scrubbing, like door jambs, under hood, etc.
An all purpose cleaner. Simple Green is a common one, but I'm not that impressed with this product that much anymore. I think a better commonly found product is Zep Orange Citrus Degreaser, and All Purpose Cleaner, and this can usually be found at Lowes-Home Depot Also.
I commonly mix this cleaner 1:1, or 50/50 with water, it works great all around, and at this mix ratio, it is not too harsh to damage or melt paint, yet strong enough to clean dirty tires, under hood-engine, door jambs, wheels, and it is also great to have around the house, for countertops, etc etc etc. I even use this stuff for pre-treating spots on laundry before washing, floors, all around general purpose.
There's better, both here and elsewhere, but this is good, easy to get, and about $11/gal, which will make 2 gallons at a 1:1 ratio. Put the mix in a small spray bottle, and go to town!
As for cleaning engine compartments, the most important thing to protect is the Alternator. You don't want to hose this down with water, or spray cleaners into it. I usually use compressed air, and towels to mop up, and dry the under hood components ASAP after a wash down.
You no doubt need paint correction, like a good polish, and while machine makes short work of such, such processes can be done gently by hand if you have the time.
Do one panel at a time.
And as you mentioned, you seem to have an issue with a shady area. This is an important thing about detailing, have good shade, and work on cool paint, always. There's only one process I'll do in broad sunlight, and that is shampooing carpeting, and fabric seats. Otherwise, nothing else gets done in the sun, regardless of manufacturer's claims otherwise.
Mark
- Thread starter
- #24
Great info as always. Well if I get to the car wash early enough I can use it as shade. Since my interior is pretty much plastic and vinyl just use the vinyl cleaner on these with a microfiber towel? Do you have any tricks for cup holders? I hate cleaning them and their a pain. Will these leave a slight shine to everything as well?
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MarkD51
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I wish to apologize to you, dissing products you've suggested, that you like, and work for you. Please forgive me.
I know our goal in this thread is to provide a newcomer with some good products, that will work well, not break the bank, and easily gotten.
As for Nu Finish, I'm being unfair, as you can take some of the best products made today , apply them onto a poor paint finish, and they are not going to miraculously transform poor paint, and create a show car finish. Most high end protective products have zero polishing, or cleaning abilities.
As for Meguairs Endurance, yes, this product works well, makes tires jet black, the high gloss version does exactly what it claims it does, creates a rubber finish you can literally comb your hair in.
Yes, it lasts longer than products like Armor All, but I began to become afraid using these types of products, with solvents, and silicones, fearing they would damage my tires.
If the vehicle isn't being kept long, then maybe don't worry about it, but if you plan keeping your vehicle for many years, I think today's water based non silicone tire products are a much better choice, and will protect a tire better.
This is one area I find lacking in off the shelf products in stores, is tire treatments that aren't loaded with solvents, and silicones.
Since the original poster did make mention that he has an Advanced Auto locally, it's been discussed here that Advanced Auto is now a Griots Garage products dealer. Griots Garage makes many fine products, and perhaps one can find a nice suitable tire protectant which is safe for tires?
Again, I apologize, sometimes we all get a bit too passionate about this hobby, and a bit too strongly opinionated about product choices at times
- Thread starter
- #26
Well I took a closer look at my tires and as you said, Armor All causes rubber to crack. My tires look like they have been sitting in a desert for the past month. I know there is not much I can do to repair that but is there are conditioner of some sort that will slow down the process?
- Thread starter
- #27
Ok guys... @MarkD51 would you mind putting together a list for me? I want to detail the interior and on the outside I want to clay, seal and wax as well as get my tires taken care of as well as the engine bay. Also need to get the water spots off the glass but I can use the clay for that. Include the kinds of towels are applicator pads as well. I'd greatly appreciate it! I have Autozone, Advance Auto, Car Quest and O'Riley all within 2 miles. Again I am trying to keep it at $100 or less. Thanks!
EDIT: I read somewhere that it's good to wax your headlights as well to protect them from fading. Does anyone else do this?
EDIT: I read somewhere that it's good to wax your headlights as well to protect them from fading. Does anyone else do this?
hernandez.art13
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- Apr 8, 2013
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Yes you can wax your headlights even better apply a sealant. Post pictures of them also lol
- Thread starter
- #29
Will do, I was hoping to get a shopping list together before I venture out tomorrow. I hate shopping blind. I've pretty much decided on the Mother's Golds Clay Kit, how many times can you use the clay before it needs to be replaced?
Sorry if I am being a pain, I just don't want to waste money. Im the MAN
hernandez.art13
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- Apr 8, 2013
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Your not I find AGO to be resourceful information mega site. If anybody gives you a hard time, move on to someone else here on AGO who is being helpful.
http://youtu.be/gfxAesk4Po4
http://youtu.be/opfK408uIxM
hernandez.art13
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Wow that thing was hideous... I can't wait to do mine tomorrow. I will post before and after pics from my Canon T3 instead of my Galaxy S3 so we can get more detail.
Oh my dad wants me to wash his white F-150 with the plastic bumpers. Any tips on a white vehicle? I know they are much harder to do vs a dark color.
MarkD51
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I'd say for a wax-sealant product, get the Duragloss #501 Marine-RV Sealant if you can find it at carquest. While you're there, see just how many products you can get from them, like their tire-rubber, or vinyl products. The #501 will work well on the white pickup, as there's lot's of cleaning power in this formula, and will help clean the paint.
The Mother's Clay Bar, last time I bought comes with two small bars, and a bottle of clay bar lube, cost about $20. Each Bar is good for one vehicle. I really wouldn't try stretching it more than this, expecially if you find the clay is getting loaded with dirts.
Keep in mind, you drop the clay anywhere, and trust me, it can be real easy to do, you have to chuck it in the trash, otherwise, you'll smear pieces of grit, small rocks across your paint forever damaging it.
You may find after claying one car with one of the bars, that there isn't too much clay lube left to use with the other bar. You can simply substitute with the relatively cheap Meguairs Detail Spray that comes in the red bottle at about $5 or so per pint. This works perfectly fine, and basically, that's all these clay lube sprays often are, a detailing spray.
As I said for carpet, and upholstery, Folex from Home Depot for about $5-$6 for a qt, but what can and will also work, is a regular carpet shampoo such as Bissel, or Hoover Brand, gotten from Walmart-etc. They would need to be diluted, and I would suggest after cleaning seats and carpeting, to again go over the cleaned areas, with clear warm water with a small clean wash towel since you probably don't have a means to extract them. Even a spray can shampoo such as Glory, or Blue Coral product can work in a pinch, and is probably better than nothing.
Having a good fine polish is nice to have. Meguiars 205 that I've seen in stores commonly comes in quarts, it's a lot of product to have on hand, at about $22-$26/qt.
Perhaps someone else can suggest another smaller quantity megs product of similar qualities from one of their other lines commonly available?
Yes, you can wax any chromed plastics, but as far as things like headlight, and tail light housings, always keep in mind that they do have protective UV coatings on them. That if you use any aggressive and abrasive means of polishing them, you'll take that coating right off.
With that coating gone, they will yellow and haze at a much faster pace.
Use the gentlest means possible if those parts still look good. Unless you have some god awful stuff stuck to the lights, I'd stay away from them with clay bars, polishes. The DG #501 will work fine on them.
As for car soaps, shampoos, I'd stick with using a decent brand of specific car products. Mothers, megs, there's literal 100's of such products, but as I earlier mentioned, the DG 901 Car Shampoo is good
FInd some nice soft MF Towels, that have a soft nap. Wally World often has some 5 packs at a decent price which aren't too bad, and are usable.
Mark
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks again, I'll head to the stores in the morning but my detailing might be delayed a day or two. Its rained for a month straight and have had about 15in in that time.
Which DG product would work best on the interior that will make it look nice but not greasy? Are MF towels the best choice for the interior as well?
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Which DG product would work best on the interior that will make it look nice but not greasy? Are MF towels the best choice for the interior as well?
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MarkD51
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- Oct 15, 2012
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If you begin to find that you're running out of money quickly, I would concentrate on cleaners, and wax-sealant products.
That for now, do not so much worry about removing fine swirls, or scratches with any polishes.
I believe from the start you said you had basically no product on the paint to protect it, correct? Swirls, and fine scratches can be addressed at a later date, when money, and time allows.
What may be the most important for now, is getting the paint as clean as you can, to get any stuck contaminants off the paint, get the paint clean by both washing and claying, and get a protective product on the paint as soon as possible.
You mentioned carpet stains, and also something for cleaning, and detailing the interior. as has been covered-mentioned, one can use a variety or products. Always read directions on any products you use.
Again, a decent all purpose cleaner, like from Zep will be a good thing to have for cleaning engine bays, wheel wells, tires, wheels, interior panels, dash, etc etc etc. Again, read the directions, as many of these products are concentrated, and would probably not be wise to use full strength for many cleaning uses.
Mark
That for now, do not so much worry about removing fine swirls, or scratches with any polishes.
I believe from the start you said you had basically no product on the paint to protect it, correct? Swirls, and fine scratches can be addressed at a later date, when money, and time allows.
What may be the most important for now, is getting the paint as clean as you can, to get any stuck contaminants off the paint, get the paint clean by both washing and claying, and get a protective product on the paint as soon as possible.
You mentioned carpet stains, and also something for cleaning, and detailing the interior. as has been covered-mentioned, one can use a variety or products. Always read directions on any products you use.
Again, a decent all purpose cleaner, like from Zep will be a good thing to have for cleaning engine bays, wheel wells, tires, wheels, interior panels, dash, etc etc etc. Again, read the directions, as many of these products are concentrated, and would probably not be wise to use full strength for many cleaning uses.
Mark
MarkD51
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One tip about claying that I'd like to share with you. BTW, this is a common practice here, that basically all of the folks here use this technique.
It's referred to as "The Plastic Baggie Test". Have you heard of this term, and read of it here?
The best baggies to use, are the thinnest ones you can find, like the super cheapo sandwich bags from like the dollar stores. Thinner is better.
After you have the vehicle squeaky clean by washing, that all dirts, and things like tar are off the paint, then you begin with the clay.
As you clay each panel (remember to use lots of clay lube, so the clay glides, and doesn't drag) you then check with your hand inside the baggie.
This will amplify your sense of touch-feel considerably.
You will not believe the difference, of using bare hands to check the paint, to a hand that is inside these thin baggies. What will often feel like smooth paint with bare hand, will then feel like it's sandpaper with the Baggie.
Let the baggie test be an aid as you go around the vehicle. Checking as you go. Usually the worst panels on the vehicle is the hood, followed by the roof-trunk. Horizontal panels have more a tendency to be loaded with contaminants stuck to them versus the vertical (side) panels.
It's referred to as "The Plastic Baggie Test". Have you heard of this term, and read of it here?
The best baggies to use, are the thinnest ones you can find, like the super cheapo sandwich bags from like the dollar stores. Thinner is better.
After you have the vehicle squeaky clean by washing, that all dirts, and things like tar are off the paint, then you begin with the clay.
As you clay each panel (remember to use lots of clay lube, so the clay glides, and doesn't drag) you then check with your hand inside the baggie.
This will amplify your sense of touch-feel considerably.
You will not believe the difference, of using bare hands to check the paint, to a hand that is inside these thin baggies. What will often feel like smooth paint with bare hand, will then feel like it's sandpaper with the Baggie.
Let the baggie test be an aid as you go around the vehicle. Checking as you go. Usually the worst panels on the vehicle is the hood, followed by the roof-trunk. Horizontal panels have more a tendency to be loaded with contaminants stuck to them versus the vertical (side) panels.
- Thread starter
- #38
I did read about it, seems a little odd when you first read about it lol. I'll be sure to grab those as well. I know I asked earlier but I don't think you awnsered. Are MF towels good for interior detailing as well?
The rain seems to have stopped but there's a 60% chance of rain today and tomorrow but on the plus side its cloudy.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
The rain seems to have stopped but there's a 60% chance of rain today and tomorrow but on the plus side its cloudy.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
hernandez.art13
New member
- Apr 8, 2013
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The baggie test does work just work clean and gentle
I have interior MF towels and exterior MF as well...
I have interior MF towels and exterior MF as well...
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
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I hate to sound like I'm blathering, but I'm a relative newcomer to this forum myself.
I joined last October I believe. But, I'm not a newcomer to detailing, and car care.
Once I found this goldmine of info, and products, as you you can see I stuck around! I cannot even estimate how many hours of reading, trying to absorb new knowledge, the useage of new products, most I never even heard of, let alone try.
There's a vast selection of tutotial videos here, and one can even find some of them, and countless others at places like youtube. Almost everything under the sun, vids on claying, applying special sealant coatings of just about every brand under the sun.
I've found tons of vids on youtube, from car care, fixing washing machines-dryers, fixing vehicles, info vids on everything from audio equipment, to battery chargers. So much is there on youtube.
It took me some good months to amass many of the products, and tools. And of course since this hobby, and this site are addictive, one never seems to have everything.
While I used many of the products and tools in a short time on my daily driver, the Kia, they were all more importantly bought for my Tahoe pictured in my avatar.
I tested virtually all products, and processes first on the Kia.
I had suggested-recommended the Duragloss line specifically to you, because I've found everything they make is very good, their products do what they say they do, and one major advantage of the products they make, they are very reasonably priced, in fact many are downright dirt cheap. Hard to find such good products today at these reasonable prices, and in this respect, Duragloss has very little to no peer.
My experiences with buying Duragloss products at my local CARQUEST, was that out of about 8-9 of their products I have on hand, only about 3 were bought off the shelves, the other 4, 5 or 6 products I had to order from them, they did not carry the entire Duragloss line in store. Your findings may vary, maybe better, and maybe worse?
I have found them to be friendly, easy to work with people, and whatever you would maybe need to order, they usually get such quite quickly, and don't necessarily need money down on such small orders like car care products.
The folks here simply have my phone number on hand, and call when goodies arrive.
Mark