NEW! DP Paint, Wheel, & Glass Coatings + Coating Prep Polish!

So PBMG has come up with a new, proprietary coating that simply sprays on and wipes off, lasts 2 years, is stronger than factory clear coat, and can be topped?

What's the catch? Sounds too good to be true.

There's a reason we didn't come out with a coating 2 years ago - GREAT things take time.

I'm not saying this is a bad thing in any way. I've got a garage full of PBMG's house products and 95% of them exceed my expectations and the abilities of competing products. I'm sure these coatings deliver, but I wonder if they are as durable as stuff from 22ple and CQuartz UK.

I encourage comparisons. :dblthumb2:
 
You know, all these glass/silica coatings all have a different concentration of glass/silica. It seems boosting the amount of "active ingredients" makes for a heartier product (and likely a costlier one), but can also make the product fussier to apply.

The paint coating claims UP TO 2 years durability. "UP TO 2 years" means anywhere from 1 day to 730 days to me, AKA it MAY last 2 years under ideal circumstances, or it may last less time. The product also states it contains polymers, which means to me it contains a traditional sealant component, like Deep Gloss Liquid Seal.

So, I'm wondering if the paint product MAY have a lower concentration of glass/silica in it. The lower price point, multiple applications per bottle, a distinct wheel coating (without polymers listed in the description), and ease of application all seem to hint at this to me.

I'm not saying this is a bad thing in any way. I've got a garage full of PBMG's house products and 95% of them exceed my expectations and the abilities of competing products. I'm sure these coatings deliver, but I wonder if they are as durable as stuff from 22ple and CQuartz UK.

Maybe I'll win the giveaway and be able to post a review and do some testing. Or, maybe someone will win the giveaway who we will never hear from again. Who knows?

I do know if I was in the market for a silica/glass coating I would be trying these products from DP, as 15 or so applications for under 50 bucks is like nothing else out there. Even if it only lasts 6-8 months, that means you could still get 7 years of LSP out of a bottle. With the ease of application it's a no brainer.

The question come in on those that charge money to customers to apply a coating. So many applications per bottle would make your profit go sky high, as the cost per application could be under $5, as opposed to $50-$100 for competing products. But, if they don't last as long as expected, that won't make it worth it in the long run.

Only time (and testing) will tell.

Thanks for the input. I am *this* close to ordering and trying it out to post my thoughts.

Nick: Do you recommend/is there a benefit of putting a layer of BWFD on top of the paint sealant?
 
Hmm this looks damn intriguing at the particular price point and with the size of the bottle... If they can yield the same performance that wolf's products have for the glass and rims, but last 1 year, it's easily a no-brainer product.

Nick, what's the shelf-life on these things? I'd imagine while OC is perfect for an enthusiast with 1-2 cars, if you can get 10 cars out of it, it'll last a person with 1-2 cars a long time.
Also, is it layerable for someone who wants added thickness to act as a greater sacrificial barrier for scratches?

Shelf life is indefinite - we have yet to have a coating "expire."

Applying multiple coats of the paint coating is more likely to create high spots. One coat is all it takes.

For the mean time, will the paint coating work for the trim as well?

On some applications, yes, but it won't last as long as a dedicated trim coating.

Just a "little" remark: ml = cc...

Our copywriter is aware of that, but 99.9% of people are not, which is why both are listed. Great catch though! :props:

Nick what is the best way to refresh this coating since it lasts so long. I'd like to try the kit.

There really isn't a need to refresh it, but if you're a gloss-addict, then any quality spray wax will do.
 
Thanks for the input. I am *this* close to ordering and trying it out to post my thoughts.

Nick: Do you recommend/is there a benefit of putting a layer of BWFD on top of the paint sealant?

BFWD creates a unique look that is sought after by a lot of people. If you dig this look, then yes, I would top Detailer's Paint Coating with BFWD.
 
What are the differences between the coatings? Would I be able to buy the glass coating to do my glass, and also apply it to the wheels? Or buy the wheel coating and apply it to the glass?

I'm not that interested in the paint coating, as I just have WAY too much sealant to use up, and it lasts me the 6 months after application before getting detailed again (once in the spring, once in the fall). But the wheel and glass coating would be of interest to me, but I don't want to buy two bottles of product where one would work.

So, if you could, please let me know why glass coating couldn't be applied to the wheels, or vice versa?

Thank you!
 
What are the differences between the coatings? Would I be able to buy the glass coating to do my glass, and also apply it to the wheels? Or buy the wheel coating and apply it to the glass?

I'm not that interested in the paint coating, as I just have WAY too much sealant to use up, and it lasts me the 6 months after application before getting detailed again (once in the spring, once in the fall). But the wheel and glass coating would be of interest to me, but I don't want to buy two bottles of product where one would work.

So, if you could, please let me know why glass coating couldn't be applied to the wheels, or vice versa?

Thank you!

Nick said wheel coating was tailored to higher temps. And I'd imagine glass coating is more hydrophobic than whee coating.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD
 
What are the differences between the coatings? Would I be able to buy the glass coating to do my glass, and also apply it to the wheels? Or buy the wheel coating and apply it to the glass?

I'm not that interested in the paint coating, as I just have WAY too much sealant to use up, and it lasts me the 6 months after application before getting detailed again (once in the spring, once in the fall). But the wheel and glass coating would be of interest to me, but I don't want to buy two bottles of product where one would work.

So, if you could, please let me know why glass coating couldn't be applied to the wheels, or vice versa?

Thank you!


The original plan was to formulate a coating that would work on glass, wheels, trim and paint. That idea was scrapped early on and it was decided to formulate specific products so there wouldn't be a compromise in protection or ease of use for each respective surface (ie: paint, glass, wheels). The trim coating is still in the testing phase.
 
:dblthumb2:
You know, all these glass/silica coatings all have a different concentration of glass/silica. It seems boosting the amount of "active ingredients" makes for a heartier product (and likely a costlier one), but can also make the product fussier to apply.

The paint coating claims UP TO 2 years durability. "UP TO 2 years" means anywhere from 1 day to 730 days to me, AKA it MAY last 2 years under ideal circumstances, or it may last less time. The product also states it contains polymers, which means to me it contains a traditional sealant component, like Deep Gloss Liquid Seal.

So, I'm wondering if the paint product MAY have a lower concentration of glass/silica in it. The lower price point, multiple applications per bottle, a distinct wheel coating (without polymers listed in the description), and ease of application all seem to hint at this to me.

I'm not saying this is a bad thing in any way. I've got a garage full of PBMG's house products and 95% of them exceed my expectations and the abilities of competing products. I'm sure these coatings deliver, but I wonder if they are as durable as stuff from 22ple and CQuartz UK.

Maybe I'll win the giveaway and be able to post a review and do some testing. Or, maybe someone will win the giveaway who we will never hear from again. Who knows?

I do know if I was in the market for a silica/glass coating I would be trying these products from DP, as 15 or so applications for under 50 bucks is like nothing else out there. Even if it only lasts 6-8 months, that means you could still get 7 years of LSP out of a bottle. With the ease of application it's a no brainer.

The question come in on those that charge money to customers to apply a coating. So many applications per bottle would make your profit go sky high, as the cost per application could be under $5, as opposed to $50-$100 for competing products. But, if they don't last as long as expected, that won't make it worth it in the long run.

Only time (and testing) will tell.
Very well said! EXO and a few others are also hybrids . I don't put these in the same bucket as OC Pro or CarPro Finest. The proof will be worth the wait!
 
Hello Nick, you know anyone that have tested this coating before you guys sell it?
 
I picked up the polish and coating kit. I think for the price compared to the others it is well worth a try!!!


The waaaaaaiiiiiting is the hardest part...

:dblthumb2:
 
What about the coating prep...it's only to chemically strip the surface? It's non abrasive, so I'll assume it probably won't be strong enough to remove other coatings that have been previously applied to the paint, correct?
 
The original plan was to formulate a coating that would work on glass, wheels, trim and paint. That idea was scrapped early on and it was decided to formulate specific products so there wouldn't be a compromise in protection or ease of use for each respective surface (ie: paint, glass, wheels). The trim coating is still in the testing phase.

I understand that there are different coating for different purposes, but are the differences something like the wheel coating isn't as clear as the glass coating, and therefore shouldn't be used on optical surfaces? Or does the class coating have better hydrophobic properties compared to the wheel coating (though I would think both would have very high surface energy, so that the glass could resist water and the wheels could resist brake dust adhesion).

Obviously you can't go in to detail about all of the differences, but if you could mention why a wheel coating shouldn't be used on glass, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks Nick!
 
Hello Nick, you know anyone that have tested this coating before you guys sell it?

I have. :D

What about the coating prep...it's only to chemically strip the surface? It's non abrasive, so I'll assume it probably won't be strong enough to remove other coatings that have been previously applied to the paint, correct?

It's non-abrasive so it won't remove a (quality) paint coating that's already been applied. It will remove waxes and sealants though.

I understand that there are different coating for different purposes, but are the differences something like the wheel coating isn't as clear as the glass coating, and therefore shouldn't be used on optical surfaces? Or does the class coating have better hydrophobic properties compared to the wheel coating (though I would think both would have very high surface energy, so that the glass could resist water and the wheels could resist brake dust adhesion).

Obviously you can't go in to detail about all of the differences, but if you could mention why a wheel coating shouldn't be used on glass, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks Nick!

Your assumption is pretty accurate! Way to go. :props:
 
Nick, if I'm polishing a car and finishing with something like M205 or SF4000 or SF4500 or even a product like Ultimate Polish which is heavy on oils.... would the Prep Polish remove all polishing oils from the paint and leave it as clean as my bank account in the end of the month, so I wouldn't need to use Eraser or IPA before applying CQuartz or Opticoat ?
 
would the Prep Polish remove all polishing oils from the paint and leave it as clean as my bank account in the end of the month, so I wouldn't need to use Eraser or IPA before applying CQuartz or Opticoat ?

Yes. :dblthumb2:
 
It's non-abrasive so it won't remove a (quality) paint coating that's already been applied. It will remove waxes and sealants though.

Nick, how would I go about using this coating prep to remove waxes and sealants?

I have just about every color LC pad, and the griot's and rupes.

What combo (pad and machine) and speed would be required to remove a wax or sealant? How much should I apply to the pad to ensure it's working in removing wax or sealant?
 
Can the new DP polish be used as a regular paint cleaner as well? Will it remove slight defects?

I'm asking because I've been looking for a non abrasive paint cleaner you can apply a glaze after. Most (almost all) paint cleaners contain a glaze, so if you want to use a glaze like Black Hole and don't need to use abrasives - what do you do?

I used Poor Boys Pro Polish and that works well, but I would be interested in trying the DP product if it can be used this way.
 
Nick, how would I go about using this coating prep to remove waxes and sealants?

I have just about every color LC pad, and the griot's and rupes.

What combo (pad and machine) and speed would be required to remove a wax or sealant? How much should I apply to the pad to ensure it's working in removing wax or sealant?

Any polishing pad will do the trick. I'm partial to the Lake Country HYDRO-TECH Tangerine pad myself. I've also used a WHITE Lake Country pad with great success as well.

Speed: 4-5 depending on the polisher; medium arm speed; ample amount of pressure; 5-6 passes.

Can the new DP polish be used as a regular paint cleaner as well? Will it remove slight defects?

On soft paint systems it will remove very light imperfections; that's mainly due to the action of the tool and the mechanical cutting/polishing ability of the pad. This polish is not designed or intended to correct paint.

I'm asking because I've been looking for a non abrasive paint cleaner you can apply a glaze after. Most (almost all) paint cleaners contain a glaze, so if you want to use a glaze like Black Hole and don't need to use abrasives - what do you do?

I used Poor Boys Pro Polish and that works well, but I would be interested in trying the DP product if it can be used this way.

Polish with Detailer's Coating Prep Polish and apply your glaze afterwards.
 
Just to add... works on single stage paint too... both products...


Detailer’s Paint Coating on Single Stage Paint


Eric dampening a clean, dry gold Finger Pocket with Detailer’s Paint Coating

1932_Ford_Phaeton_005.jpg



Gently applying the coating...

1932_Ford_Phaeton_006.jpg




Glassy looking...

1932_Ford_Phaeton_007.jpg




:)
 
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