Did A Test Spot - Less Than Thrilled With The Results

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kappy
  • Start date Start date
The more I read, the more I'm discovering that several of us are in a club that we don't want to belong to, but I'll bet it gets better. Some people are lucky and the first time they pick up a DA and some polish they have success with it. Others don't, but there's no one-size-fits all when it comes to this, and much of it is trial and error.

I'm anything but an expert, as you can tell, but I think if given the choice I would complete all the polishing first, then move on to sealing or waxing. Otherwise you could get residual polish, or in my case dust, on the panels you've completed. I'd probably want to clean the whole car after polishing to prepare it for the next step.
 
Great thread Kappy- I'll defintely be watching your progress. Reading your first post, it was almost like reading my own post from last weekend- i had the EXACT same experience as you! Disappointing first results, poor lighting in my garage, polish residue streaks driving me NUTS! hahaha. For me I originally identified my problem as using too much pressure on the DA. I corrected that, and for a little while I was using the brinkman light to check my results after every pass, and things were looking good. But the polish residue problem was bugging me so much and slowing down my progress that I eventually thought I would just ditch the light, and the streaks would either come out when I moved to the finer polish (was using wolfgang twins), or I would just wash it off at the end.

BIG MISTAKE... At some point (probably when moving from 6.5" pads to the 3" backing plate/pads), my technique went to crap again... I did the whole car with tsr, then the whole car again with the finishing glaze... looked so amazing

....in my garage :(

The minute I shined that light on it again- swirls /everywhere/. I think they were all added by me! I can't say the car doesn't look great- it's actually pretty hard to see them even in natural light. Bright sun probably a little easier. But to do all that work (back was killing me at the end of that weekend!) and see that under the light just killed me...

I think the level of pressure and speed people say for the larger pads probably isn't right for the smaller pads; I should have thought about that. I believe I was also probably working too wet like some have suggested. I'm gonna try it again using more of a method like some others I've seen where they just put a few drops on the pad and spread it around on the panel before working. Also need to experiment with how much pressure to use...

I think now I'm just going to do one panel at a time and make sure it's perfect. Does anyone think it's a bad idea to do the full course of work 1 panel at a time (like not just the polishing, but sealant/wax as well?) Since I don't have a lot of free time (and my wife will kill me if I keep using my whole weekend to work on the car :laughing:), it might be a better plan for me to just take it slow and try to get the end-to-end process one panel at a time...

This is exactly what I did last year. It's a perfect plan for a couple reasons. First, the idea of going at a whole car as a noob is overwhelming. If you concentrate on just getting one panel perfect, it's a much easier undertaking. Second, it takes a long time, especially for a noob, so if you break it up you can just spend an hour or two whenever you have the chance.

If you get one panel perfect, it builds confidence and that will help you out the next time you go at it. Plus, repetition is good practice; it helps you retain information, i.e. your technique, etc.

When you're all done you can put on another coat of sealant/wax or whatever, stand back and enjoy.
 
The more I read, the more I'm discovering that several of us are in a club that we don't want to belong to, but I'll bet it gets better. Some people are lucky and the first time they pick up a DA and some polish they have success with it. Others don't, but there's no one-size-fits all when it comes to this, and much of it is trial and error.

I'm anything but an expert, as you can tell, but I think if given the choice I would complete all the polishing first, then move on to sealing or waxing. Otherwise you could get residual polish, or in my case dust, on the panels you've completed. I'd probably want to clean the whole car after polishing to prepare it for the next step.

Just ONR and throw on another coat of wax when you're finally done. :)

Good luck tomorrow!!
 
Thanks to you both for the advice. I was thinking about the dust too, but I think at this point I've also resigned myself to know that thinks aren't going to be 100% perfect on my first try. I think Like Stu is saying, It will probably motivate me more to at least get one panel perfect. Last weekend was a killer doing a 2 step polish on the whole car only to see those swirls at the end... I think I gotta bust the brinkman back out and take it slow :)
 
After reading all of this, I also was on autotopia about the HF DA, and they were recomending HD UNO as agreat place to start. same bottle, different pads and does not dry out quickly. I just Ordered some. Ill Let you know how it works when it gets here.
 
Tried again today, the main differences were that I used way lighter pressure, and a lot less product this time. Just 4 drops, spread around on the section to prime, and 3 drops from then on (hit the TSR with a little QD every once in a while). I got great results, and the polish wiped off a lot easier.
 
Hey Kappy- sorry don't mean to hijack your thread, just wanted to post my results and hopefully it can help you or others.

So I continued as above (the other change I made was only doing 4, sometimes 5 section passes instead of 6 like I was doing before, but the damage was much lighter this time. Finished polishing and moved on to 2 coats of sealant, and it came out great! hood is smooth as glass and really glossy. Gonna put on a few coats of dodo juice supernatural tomorrow.

I would have finished earlier, but I tried to do a rinseless wash before the sealant, and either the wool mitt or waffle weave I was using started putting some swirl marks back in! I caught it pretty quickly and it wasn't too bad, but I did have to go back to polishing... Next time I just gave it a heavy IPA wipedown, dried with soft MF, and just moved on to the sealant.

I didn't see any streaks after the sealant, so maybe that process does clean them up. I was worried I'd be sealing over them, but the paint looks great. I will say that focusing on only one panel at a time did also let me take my time and focus more on my technique. And good motivation since you can see the end of each step right around the corner.
 
Hey Kappy- sorry don't mean to hijack your thread, just wanted to post my results and hopefully it can help you or others.

So I continued as above (the other change I made was only doing 4, sometimes 5 section passes instead of 6 like I was doing before, but the damage was much lighter this time. Finished polishing and moved on to 2 coats of sealant, and it came out great! hood is smooth as glass and really glossy. Gonna put on a few coats of dodo juice supernatural tomorrow.

I would have finished earlier, but I tried to do a rinseless wash before the sealant, and either the wool mitt or waffle weave I was using started putting some swirl marks back in! I caught it pretty quickly and it wasn't too bad, but I did have to go back to polishing... Next time I just gave it a heavy IPA wipedown, dried with soft MF, and just moved on to the sealant.

I didn't see any streaks after the sealant, so maybe that process does clean them up. I was worried I'd be sealing over them, but the paint looks great. I will say that focusing on only one panel at a time did also let me take my time and focus more on my technique. And good motivation since you can see the end of each step right around the corner.

What kind of car are you working on? And what color?
 
E46 M3, jet black. I've heard the paint is pretty soft, I think it will be hard to keep the swirls out. I already have a foam gun/pressure washer, maybe I need an air blower to dry too :D
 
I selected these photos and the video was shot for my most recent show and shine, but as I looked at the photos and previewed the video, I thought of this thread. Earlier in this thread I suggested that maybe the OP was using too much product and I wanted to share these photos and text in this thread to show the OP how much product I use when compounding with 105.

Granted, I only use the MF pads while DA compounding. Here's how I prime a new or cleaned pad at the beginning of a job. I only prime once for each pad I use and typically I can use the same pad for the entire job with my technique.



This is about how much product I use for the initial priming of the pad. This is actually just a little more than I normally use.



I spread it over 100% of the face of the pad, then I rub it into all the fibers of the pad so all the fibers now have abrasives attached to them. As stated, this is a little wetter than what I normally prime but the important thing is that all the fibers have abrasives attached to them.

I always work this primed pad on a larger panel (without adding any extra dots of compound) doing section passes until the product on the panel is invisible like the panel I'm compounding in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQoFYA_fLi0

So I work it until the product is invisible on the panel and often times a little beyond depending on the surface I'm working on. I could actually go right to another panel and correct it using just the abrasives that are still attached to the fibers of the pad after the product went invisible on the previous panel.

I'm speaking strictly M-105 or other compounds with non-diminishing abrasives here. I've done this a few times just to see if it still corrects, and it does.

After running the first section or two until the compound goes invisible on the paint, I blow the pad out with compressed air to dislodge the abraded off clear, spent abrasives and to cool down and dry the pad.



After blowing the pad clean, cool and fluffed dry, I add 4 pea sized drops about an inch in from the outer edge of the pad and then spread it in to the outer 1 to 2 inches of the pad face, leaving the center dry.

The product tends to migrate toward the center of the pad naturally as the pad is worked against the paint so leaving the center dry prevents over saturation and pad failure from product steaming in the middle of the pad.





Some will say "Well not everyone has compressed air", to which I would reply with "Well not everyone get's the most from their MF pads". The two go together like peas and carrots.

So, to the OP...Are you doing anything like this? Are you using much more product after the initial priming? Would you be willing to test the theory that attached dry abrasive particles will still correct paint? If you will try it, you'll be closer to finding the balance of product amount that works best for you.

I'm not suggesting to anyone that you should dry compound the car's paint, I'm just showing that you could, and that there is a huge benefit to taking it to this point. As such, you can continue compounding until all the product residue has been removed by the machine and pad leaving you with nothing to wipe off in the end saving time, energy and reducing paint marring from wiping "dried like cement" product residue from the paint.

As stated earlier, I'm speaking strictly of M-105 or other non-diminishing abrasive compounds like it. Finish polishing is an entirely different ball of wax.
 
Dave--for those of us who do not have compressed air what would you recommend as a process for cleaning MF pads on the fly??? Would a pad brush (or perhaps a denture brush which has stiffer bristles) and towel work OK??
 
Hey Kappy- sorry don't mean to hijack your thread, just wanted to post my results and hopefully it can help you or others.

No apology needed, and the more feedback the better. Glad you're finally having some success.

I selected these photos and the video was shot for my most recent show and shine, but as I looked at the photos and previewed the video, I thought of this thread. Earlier in this thread I suggested that maybe the OP was using too much product and I wanted to share these photos and text in this thread to show the OP how much product I use when compounding with 105.

This is about how much product I use for the initial priming of the pad. This is actually just a little more than I normally use.

So, to the OP...Are you doing anything like this? Are you using much more product after the initial priming? Would you be willing to test the theory that attached dry abrasive particles will still correct paint? If you will try it, you'll be closer to finding the balance of product amount that works best for you.

As stated earlier, I'm speaking strictly of M-105 or other non-diminishing abrasive compounds like it. Finish polishing is an entirely different ball of wax.
Thanks for all the information and the photos. And while I tried varying amounts of product, it's possible that it was more than my technique causing the problems I was having.

Earlier in the thread I mentioned that I would like to get some advice from a local detailer. StuDLei put me in touch with Scott, of Scottwax Detailing, earlier this week, and I finally had the opportunity to meet him today.

First let me thank StuDLei again, for going out of his way to make the introduction. I'm a relatively new forum member and this went above and beyond my expectations.

I spoke with Scott the other day and explained that I was looking for help trying to figure out what products I could use on my car to do a proper paint correction. I also told him that I no interest in going into the detailing business, or becoming competition for him. This was just a request for some assistance to make it easier for me work on my own car.

As soon as I told him I had a black Nissan, he described the problems I was having before I even said anything. While there's a sticker under the hood that says Hard Clear Coat, it's anything but. If I remember correctly he said the paint tends to grab and is very difficult to work with, and in his experience, it doesn't like M105, which is what I was using.

Scott was working in the vicinity today and stopped by so we could experiment with some products and pads. His first reaction was surprise that my paint was in such bad shape for a somewhat new car. The car looks great until you see it in the sun, and is full of rotary buffer swirls galore, complements of the dealer. It also has an inconsistency in the finish, and places where it looked like a different orange peel than in other places, as if there were areas that might have been repainted.

First thing he tried was his Flex with a microfiber pad and M100. After several section passes he stopped and wiped up the compound, noticing some slight hazing. And I noticed little to no dust. This wasn't anything like the results I had with M105. I can't remember if he moved to M205 next or went right to an HD Polish, but whichever it was, the hazing was removed. While it wasn't perfect, there was more progress with the one or two passes he did, than I had made in the two days I spent experimenting.

Next up he used my Griot's DA and tried the M100 on an orange LC flat pad, which worked pretty well. He did the upper right panel with the Flex and the top of the rear door with my DA, and then I took a turn on the bottom of the door. That's the first I've worked on a lower part of the car and I know it would take me a while to get used to it and hold the DA straight.

The orange pad did a decent job for both of us, but no matter what we used it would probably require multiple passes to clean up the swirl mess.

The Murano has some large plastic panels in the back, as well as a plastic bumper, and he called my attention to the fact that you have to be careful around these and avoid generating too much heat while polishing. Oh, good. Something else to worry about.

At one point we talked about using M100 on a microfiber pad, followed by M205 on an orange pad, followed by the HD Polish on a microfiber pad, or it could be the reverse of the pads for the last two. It was getting hard to keep track of all the ideas.

As a final experiment he applied some Collinite 476 on one panel, some Clear Coat Carnuba Moose Wax - hadn't heard of that one before - on an adjacent panel, and finally some Opti Seal next to that. I have to wait until tomorrow to really see the difference in the daylight, but I could notice a slight difference even in the garage.

After a long conversation with Scott, and a list of more products I would need to do the work, and the realization that this isn't a practice car for me, I'm fairly certain I'm going to take advantage of Scott's experience and let him do the paint correction. I'm going to prep the car beforehand; take care of sealing or waxing after he's done, and do all the future upkeep to maintain the car as best I can. Ultimately, after thinking about this since my first conversation with him several days ago, and my experience today, I think I would be attempting a job that is too big for me, having never done this before. I should have started with a Smart Car or a Mini Cooper.

There's no doubt that I would get an immense satisfaction from doing the work myself, especially if it turned out well. I could also take another stab at it and call him to complete the job if I run into trouble. Or, I could possibly do something that makes doing it myself a very bad decision. For me, there's no ego involved whatsoever. I would like a better looking car, and I think that in this case, working with a pro is the best way to accomplish this. I would even be willing to help, but then he would have to charge extra. :)

Had I known I was going to go this route I might not have bought the equipment. Then again, I can probably still use the DA for future upkeep so it won't go to waste.

I'll try to make sure we get some pictures and start a new thread when the job is done, possibly next week depending on his schedule and a day I can be without a car. Scott said that this could be an all day job, and that's with me doing the prep, so you can imagine how big a job this could be.
 
I've had since I had my first mf pads so I learned with air. Anything you can do to get the pad cool and dry beteween section passes. I noticed when watching the guys in northern virginia, they used a pad washer to clean them on the fly. I was surprised when they said they had no issues with steam coming from their pads as a result of the water from the pad washer.
 
No apology needed, and the more feedback the better. Glad you're finally having some success.


Thanks for all the information and the photos. And while I tried varying amounts of product, it's possible that it was more than my technique causing the problems I was having.

Earlier in the thread I mentioned that I would like to get some advice from a local detailer. StuDLei put me in touch with Scott, of Scottwax Detailing, earlier this week, and I finally had the opportunity to meet him today.

First let me thank StuDLei again, for going out of his way to make the introduction. I'm a relatively new forum member and this went above and beyond my expectations.

I spoke with Scott the other day and explained that I was looking for help trying to figure out what products I could use on my car to do a proper paint correction. I also told him that I no interest in going into the detailing business, or becoming competition for him. This was just a request for some assistance to make it easier for me work on my own car.

As soon as I told him I had a black Nissan, he described the problems I was having before I even said anything. While there's a sticker under the hood that says Hard Clear Coat, it's anything but. If I remember correctly he said the paint tends to grab and is very difficult to work with, and in his experience, it doesn't like M105, which is what I was using.

Scott was working in the vicinity today and stopped by so we could experiment with some products and pads. His first reaction was surprise that my paint was in such bad shape for a somewhat new car. The car looks great until you see it in the sun, and is full of rotary buffer swirls galore, complements of the dealer. It also has an inconsistency in the finish, and places where it looked like a different orange peel than in other places, as if there were areas that might have been repainted.

First thing he tried was his Flex with a microfiber pad and M100. After several section passes he stopped and wiped up the compound, noticing some slight hazing. And I noticed little to no dust. This wasn't anything like the results I had with M105. I can't remember if he moved to M205 next or went right to an HD Polish, but whichever it was, the hazing was removed. While it wasn't perfect, there was more progress with the one or two passes he did, than I had made in the two days I spent experimenting.

Next up he used my Griot's DA and tried the M100 on an orange LC flat pad, which worked pretty well. He did the upper right panel with the Flex and the top of the rear door with my DA, and then I took a turn on the bottom of the door. That's the first I've worked on a lower part of the car and I know it would take me a while to get used to it and hold the DA straight.

The orange pad did a decent job for both of us, but no matter what we used it would probably require multiple passes to clean up the swirl mess.

The Murano has some large plastic panels in the back, as well as a plastic bumper, and he called my attention to the fact that you have to be careful around these and avoid generating too much heat while polishing. Oh, good. Something else to worry about.

At one point we talked about using M100 on a microfiber pad, followed by M205 on an orange pad, followed by the HD Polish on a microfiber pad, or it could be the reverse of the pads for the last two. It was getting hard to keep track of all the ideas.

As a final experiment he applied some Collinite 476 on one panel, some Clear Coat Carnuba Moose Wax - hadn't heard of that one before - on an adjacent panel, and finally some Opti Seal next to that. I have to wait until tomorrow to really see the difference in the daylight, but I could notice a slight difference even in the garage.

After a long conversation with Scott, and a list of more products I would need to do the work, and the realization that this isn't a practice car for me, I'm fairly certain I'm going to take advantage of Scott's experience and let him do the paint correction. I'm going to prep the car beforehand; take care of sealing or waxing after he's done, and do all the future upkeep to maintain the car as best I can. Ultimately, after thinking about this since my first conversation with him several days ago, and my experience today, I think I would be attempting a job that is too big for me, having never done this before. I should have started with a Smart Car or a Mini Cooper.

There's no doubt that I would get an immense satisfaction from doing the work myself, especially if it turned out well. I could also take another stab at it and call him to complete the job if I run into trouble. Or, I could possibly do something that makes doing it myself a very bad decision. For me, there's no ego involved whatsoever. I would like a better looking car, and I think that in this case, working with a pro is the best way to accomplish this. I would even be willing to help, but then he would have to charge extra. :)

Had I known I was going to go this route I might not have bought the equipment. Then again, I can probably still use the DA for future upkeep so it won't go to waste.

I'll try to make sure we get some pictures and start a new thread when the job is done, possibly next week depending on his schedule and a day I can be without a car. Scott said that this could be an all day job, and that's with me doing the prep, so you can imagine how big a job this could be.

Kappy-

It is great to hear that you two got together, so quickly I might add. Wow, I'm jealous!!

The more you describe your paint, the more I wonder. As I told you, I have a black 2004 Nissan 350z and the first time I used my Flex and 105 it was realllly difficult for me. What year is your car? Did Scott say anything about your clear coat being one those "self-correcting" paints? I'm trying to gauge if we have the same or similar paints, even if your car is considerably newer than mine. My paint is really grabby as well. Even after ONRing with fresh wax recently applied, I get a lot of "grabbage" in certain spots. It ticks me off too, because I don't care how expensive your towel is, you have to baby certain parts of the car for it not to lint.

Also, you said you used 205 with an orange pad. I did the same last year for a test spot and had great results. It wasn't perfect, but pretty close. Ultimately I chose the 105 and orange, and followed with 205 and white or green and then Menzerna 4500 on a black pad. Right now I'm in the process of going over my car with black and Menz again (this is a year later now I'm talking about) and even though the SF 4500 reads as a very low cut, it works beautifully on my paint. Granted, my paint is in pretty good shape now, but there were very fine scratches and very shallow water spots. It's also VERY easy to work with and boy does the black paint look good afterwards.

So, after you guys hit it with the orange and 105, how did it look? Can you describe it better? Did he get the spots with his MF pad and M100 to look perfect (after finer polishes)?

Why don't you reconsider doing it yourself and take it one or two panels at a time? I really think this is a fine way to do things, maybe even the best way for a beginner. Compound a panel once or twice if it needs it, then follow it up with 205 and something else. Use IPA or Eraser afterwards and then seal that baby up. One panel at a time. For whatever reason, I just want to see you do this yourself and succeed, lol.

Good luck whatever you choose.
 
I've had since I had my first mf pads so I learned with air. Anything you can do to get the pad cool and dry beteween section passes. I noticed when watching the guys in northern virginia, they used a pad washer to clean them on the fly. I was surprised when they said they had no issues with steam coming from their pads as a result of the water from the pad washer.

I have a question for you Dave. I clean my pad (foam) after every section or two (not panel, section, just to be clear). I do this with a damp terry cloth towel. I turn my Flex on and then jam a few fingers on the pad while it spins. Repeat with a clean section of a towel if needed.

Do you need to prime the pad again after doing this? Is it okay if that the pad is a bit damp? I mean, sometimes I use a towel that's a bit wet, so I just wonder if this isn't the best way to do things.

Also- One thing I've noticed with Menz 4500 and a black pad-- I'll prime it by spreading the product out with my fingers, then add a three small drops of product and go to work. Right after I do this, I feel like I have to do ten passes (I always lose count) for it to clear out. Then, I clean the pad and add three more small drops and go to work. It requires about 5-6 passes now, and sometimes seems to clear out really fast, but I still go 5-6 passes.

So I wonder, did I use enough product? The 4500 is a DAT product correct? You know when you polish as a noob, your working area tends to get wider on each pass as you're working a section. In other words, you keep pushing out further and further. The reason that I think I tend to do this is because there's product there that I need to break down so when I wipe it off it doesn't impart its own scratches. Does this make any sense and do you have any comments on the matter? Maybe I'm thinking about this way too hard. I've never noticed putting any fine scratches in paint from not breaking it down, but I just wondered.

I'm all ears.
 
I've had since I had my first mf pads so I learned with air. Anything you can do to get the pad cool and dry beteween section passes. I noticed when watching the guys in northern virginia, they used a pad washer to clean them on the fly. I was surprised when they said they had no issues with steam coming from their pads as a result of the water from the pad washer.

I was out cat fishing at the river while I was trying to write this reply last night. Forgot a few words and misspelled a few others.

What it was supposed to say was that I've had air since I got my first microfiber pads. I had messed around trying to correct paint without using the air to clean, cool and fluff the pads and had very little success. I have a very stiff whitewall brush that I've used to fluff the fibers back up and clean the pad, but it doesn't cool the pad off. I've tried a towel to fluff and clean the pad and the fibers are typically matted down too hard to fluff them up.

Best way I've found without air is to get a brush stiff enough to fluff the fibers and keep going until the pad won't correct without generating too much heat, then change out the pad for a fresh, new, clean and dry pad after fluffing the pad so it doesn't dry with the fibers all matted down. About every 2 sections worked IME. All the hassle doing things this way converted to money, (time is money) would cover the cost of a small cast iron air compressor in not too long of time. This is just how I think.

The guys down in Northern Virginia at the team detailing get together were using a pad washer bucket to clean these pads and to my surprise they were having success and had no issues with the left over moisture when going back to work with a pad that was damp from washing on the fly.

I have a question for you Dave. I clean my pad (foam) after every section or two (not panel, section, just to be clear). I do this with a damp terry cloth towel. I turn my Flex on and then jam a few fingers on the pad while it spins. Repeat with a clean section of a towel if needed.
This is how I do it with foam pads on my 3401 too but I use a dry towel instead.
Do you need to prime the pad again after doing this? Is it okay if that the pad is a bit damp? I mean, sometimes I use a towel that's a bit wet, so I just wonder if this isn't the best way to do things.
I personally like to add some product to the pad and then smear it across the pad as if I were priming it. I want abrasives on as much of the face of the pad as possible without making it slopping wet when I start a work section.

Dots of product find their way around the pad I guess, but I think spreading it out on the face of the pad first puts more abrasives in a position to be most useful. Between the entire pad and paint, instead of absorbed into one (or three) areas of the pad.

Damp with product is good, slopping wet with product has never yielded any favorable results in my experience. I never add the dots after lightly priming a pad, I just go to work with it.

Wet or even damp with water has always been a negative thing in my experience. I wash foam pads, cover the foam side with a towel and roll the pad up like a jelly roll, with the towel being like the jelly then I press the rolled up pad as hard as I can to remove as much of the water as possible before using the pad again, in fact I prefer to allow them to dry for a few days before use because damp pads have always been trouble for me. I find that the dampness degrades the adhesive that the pads are constructed with as the damp pad begins steaming from the friction of use. Dry pads last longer and perform better IME.

Also- One thing I've noticed with Menz 4500 and a black pad-- I'll prime it by spreading the product out with my fingers, then add a three small drops of product and go to work. Right after I do this, I feel like I have to do ten passes (I always lose count) for it to clear out. Then, I clean the pad and add three more small drops and go to work. It requires about 5-6 passes now, and sometimes seems to clear out really fast, but I still go 5-6 passes.
I see this as waste, waste of product, waste of clean towels, possibly even a waste of clear coat as you polish away doing 10 or more section passes to get the product to thin out. Not to mention, once the product begins to thin out it is far from being broken down. I think a lot of folks miss out on the true gloss potential of SF4500 because of stopping short of breaking the product down fully. I could get into the working behaviors of that product and how much and how many passes etc. but I don't have time right now.

I'll just say, I used no extra drops of product, "lightly" primed my finishing pad with PO85RD (SF4500) and ran about 30 section passes to realize the true glossing potential of the product. That stuff is more awesome than what I think a lot of people know.

So I wonder, did I use enough product? The 4500 is a DAT product correct? You know when you polish as a noob, your working area tends to get wider on each pass as you're working a section. In other words, you keep pushing out further and further. The reason that I think I tend to do this is because there's product there that I need to break down so when I wipe it off it doesn't impart its own scratches. Does this make any sense and do you have any comments on the matter? Maybe I'm thinking about this way too hard. I've never noticed putting any fine scratches in paint from not breaking it down, but I just wondered.
Makes total sense, I'd say you are probably using too much product. Breaking down a DAT polish or compound is more about achieving a certain goal in glossiness while using enough product so that before it breaks down, you get the correction you're looking to get.

Not enough product on the pad and you don't get the correction but you get the gloss. Too much product on the pad and you end up not seeing the true gloss potential, while possibly scouring the finish or removing more clear than necessary before the abrasives begin breaking down.

It's a balancing act, and every paint system is dialed in differently for maximum results. SMAT takes all the guess work out of it.

I'm all ears.[/QUOTE]
 
Dave-

Awesome post, thanks for your insight. I'm going to start using a dry terry cloth towel to clean my pads and see how that goes. Also- I think I understand what you were getting at with 4500 and it's true gloss potential. You realllly have to break it down to the point where the paint is just a bit moist with leftover product, and then it wipes away effortlessly to a brilliant shine. My issue was with my first section and having too much product. My next passes use less product, maybe even too little, because it seems like it clears out too fast. Like I'm spreading out more 4500 that's already broken down (left it the pad from before) and less new stuff. IDK. My results were still good lately, so I guess that's all that matters. Even though it's advertised as very little cut, it took out super fine swirls and very shallow watermarks (did not come out with clay) no problem.

Anyways, your post will help me out a lot, so thank you.
 
Dave-

Awesome post, thanks for your insight. I'm going to start using a dry terry cloth towel to clean my pads and see how that goes. Also- I think I understand what you were getting at with 4500 and it's true gloss potential. You realllly have to break it down to the point where the paint is just a bit moist with leftover product, and then it wipes away effortlessly to a brilliant shine. My issue was with my first section and having too much product. My next passes use less product, maybe even too little, because it seems like it clears out too fast. Like I'm spreading out more 4500 that's already broken down (left it the pad from before) and less new stuff. IDK. My results were still good lately, so I guess that's all that matters. Even though it's advertised as very little cut, it took out super fine swirls and very shallow watermarks (did not come out with clay) no problem.

Anyways, your post will help me out a lot, so thank you.
You're welcome.

The problem with working a 12"x12" section for a while with a DAT polish or especially a DAT compound and then increasing your working section out to let's say 18"x18" in the same working cycle, is that the first 12"x12" area that you worked saw the virgin abrasives that started from their original size and cutting ability then broke down to more of a finishing polish, so that area got the cutting benefit of the products abrasives and began to see the broken down abrasives that are now essentially smaller finishing polish sized abrasives.

Now in the same working cycle you increase from 12"x12" to 18"x18", the area around the the original 12"x12" area that you initially began compounding/polishing in only sees the glossing ability of the DAT product's abrasives, as the original size of the "virgin abrasives" were reduced beyond their cutting ability in the first 12"x12" section you worked them in.

So in doing this, theoretically in the end you get a 12"x12" area with no paint defects at all and plenty of gloss, surrounded by a few inches of glossy paint that still has some deeper defects remaining because the abrasives were broken down into more of a finishing (not cutting) state in the first 12"x12" section before you enlarged the section to 18"x18".

Wow...that's confuzing...:confused:

Forum member Darkhorse (Tad) sent me a 4 oz. bottle of PO85RD (renamed SF4500) a few years ago. After removing the swirls on my Buick's paint, I took my Makita rotary with a 4" white Cyclo finishing pad and applied a thin layer of the product to it and began doing section passes on 1/2 of the trunk lid. The product went clear at about 4 section passes and I continued on doing section passes to see how long it would take to go completely dry, as in zero signs of the product left behind on the paint.

I kept doing section passes and every now and then would run my finger over an area behind the travel of the pad to see if anything at all still remained on the paint. I did about 20 more section passes and there was still a super thin layer of polishing oil trailing behind the pad. This was the day that I truly realized the glossing potential of the product. I continued on to do this to the entire car and it took me nearly all day to finish.

In the end the gloss was simply amazing so I cleaned the polishing oils off of the car by washing with a traditional wash with 1 ounce of degreaser added to the wash water, then wiped the finish dry using a glass cleaner sprayed on as I dried the car. I followed that up with a coat of Opti-Coat 2.0 and I am still impressed with the gloss my Buick has after each time I wash it. Even after all this time, the gloss remains even though the clear is swirled up and fracturing.
 
You're welcome.

The problem with working a 12"x12" section for a while with a DAT polish or especially a DAT compound and then increasing your working section out to let's say 18"x18" in the same working cycle, is that the first 12"x12" area that you worked saw the virgin abrasives that started from their original size and cutting ability then broke down to more of a finishing polish, so that area got the cutting benefit of the products abrasives and began to see the broken down abrasives that are now essentially smaller finishing polish sized abrasives.

Now in the same working cycle you increase from 12"x12" to 18"x18", the area around the the original 12"x12" area that you initially began compounding/polishing in only sees the glossing ability of the DAT product's abrasives, as the original size of the "virgin abrasives" were reduced beyond their cutting ability in the first 12"x12" section you worked them in.

So in doing this, theoretically in the end you get a 12"x12" area with no paint defects at all and plenty of gloss, surrounded by a few inches of glossy paint that still has some deeper defects remaining because the abrasives were broken down into more of a finishing (not cutting) state in the first 12"x12" section before you enlarged the section to 18"x18".

Wow...that's confuzing...:confused:

Forum member Darkhorse (Tad) sent me a 4 oz. bottle of PO85RD (renamed SF4500) a few years ago. After removing the swirls on my Buick's paint, I took my Makita rotary with a 4" white Cyclo finishing pad and applied a thin layer of the product to it and began doing section passes on 1/2 of the trunk lid. The product went clear at about 4 section passes and I continued on doing section passes to see how long it would take to go completely dry, as in zero signs of the product left behind on the paint.

I kept doing section passes and every now and then would run my finger over an area behind the travel of the pad to see if anything at all still remained on the paint. I did about 20 more section passes and there was still a super thin layer of polishing oil trailing behind the pad. This was the day that I truly realized the glossing potential of the product. I continued on to do this to the entire car and it took me nearly all day to finish.

In the end the gloss was simply amazing so I cleaned the polishing oils off of the car by washing with a traditional wash with 1 ounce of degreaser added to the wash water, then wiped the finish dry using a glass cleaner sprayed on as I dried the car. I followed that up with a coat of Opti-Coat 2.0 and I am still impressed with the gloss my Buick has after each time I wash it. Even after all this time, the gloss remains even though the clear is swirled up and fracturing.

Dave, I got married Aug 2nd and then went on a honeymoon, etc. So, basically, I've been busy lately which is why I haven't posted. Thanks for your reply.

The reason I tend to push out my working area as I'm actually working an area is because when you are making your second pass you want to make sure you "hit" the areas you went over the first time. I'm having a really hard time trying to articulate what I mean... lol. Say you made one section pass and now you're on your second. When I come up to the edge of the area I'm working and it's time to change direction, I always go a little bit further than the edge I was working to make sure I pick up the spent product. Problem is, on my third, fourth, fifth, and so on passes, I do the same thing. In my head, I justify this somehow, thinking that I when I'm done working the area and it's time to wipe up the product, I don't want ANY "virgin" product left on the paint, because when I wipe it up it could leave tiny scratches. Does that make sense? I think as I do this more, I'll find my groove. Just wanted to put that out there and also let you know that I did read and appreciate your reply.
 
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