845 over DG105/601 - How long to wait?

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Shortspark

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I have just put two coats of Duragloss 105/601 (4:1 combo) on my car after having washed, clayed and cleaned with P21s paitwork cleanser. This is a winning combination in itself but I want to top with two coats of Collinite 845. I think Richy and some others here have done this (and so have I some time last year) but I can't recall what I did and forget how long to wait for the Duragloss to cure. I think I read about 3 hours is all it takes because the bonding agent in 601 flashes the sealant to the paint right away. But I also recall someone saying it should cure overnight before applying the 845. I just can't remember. Does anyone know?
 
601 allows 105/501 to cure in 2-3 hours. I usually let 601/105 dry to haze and then remove and top with 845 in 2-3 hours or after the next wash.
 
Can you put 845 over 601 without 105.? I know there is Nuba in 845 but also other polymers. Any info?
 
Great! I thought two or three hours is all it took.

JJJ, I believe 845 has no cleaners in it so it can go over anything and should do no harm. Of course, I don't know if 601 by itself will enhance 845 the way it does 111 and 105 as I never tried that.
 
Shortspark said:
Great! I thought two or three hours is all it took.

JJJ, I believe 845 has no cleaners in it so it can go over anything and should do no harm. Of course, I don't know if 601 by itself will enhance 845 the way it does 111 and 105 as I never tried that.
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Great thanks for info.
 
Shortspark said:
I have just put two coats of Duragloss 105/601 (4:1 combo) on my car
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I've noticed a lot of people layer 105. The description on the DG site says it has cleaning properties to remove mild oxidation and light surface scratches. Wouldn't that make 105 a poor candidate for layering?
 
Dogfather said:
I've noticed a lot of people layer 105. The description on the DG site says it has cleaning properties to remove mild oxidation and light surface scratches. Wouldn't that make 105 a poor candidate for layering?
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You are probably right. I did not layer for extra durability or shine but rather to ensure total coverage in case I missed a spot the first time. Two layers can't hurt in that regard even if you remove a little of the first coat, the second is still there. The cleaning agents in 105 are not very abrasive. It is not a pure sealant like 111 but nor is it an AIO like 501 which is a powerful cleaner. At least that is my understanding of it.
 
I believe richy tops immediately after he finishes removing the 601/105.
 
With 601/105 at the recommended mix taking into account weather and temperature conditions you can apply a second coat as soon as first coat has been buffed off. (I ran this by both the brothers years ago and they confirmed)

Regarding layering, yes 105 has some mild cleaning property's and so does 601 even more so than 105 however I often layer with excellent results. If your worried about degrading the first coat then hand apply the second coat. My fall winter prep has consisted of 1 layer each of 601/501 (machine applied), 601,105 (by hand) and a topper of Collinite 845 for the last 3 years with excellent results.

Need some extra correction with sealant then throw some 671 into the mix!
 
Thanks, I went ahead and finished applying my coat of 845 and everything looks great! I don't know about other colors but on my Mercedes "Diamond White" I can't imagine anything better than 105 topped with 845. I put the bottle of 845 out in my driveway where the afternoon sun is full blast and it liquefied almost immediately. I put the wax in a spray bottle and misted my pad which is much easier for me then using pea drops. A squirt or two on the pad for each panel and I'm good to go with a very thin layer. I think I will top with AquaWax tomorrow.

I did something a little different this time by applying Fast Clean and Shine just prior to the 105/601. I read that it makes the application of the sealant smoother. I suppose it might if you were doing it by hand but I could not tell a difference using my Griot polisher. The same article contained another tip that I might try. The author suggested that if I want to layer more coats of the 105 in the future (he suggests three coats) I should wash the car and spray it with AquaWax, then apply 105 without the bonding agent. He said that he found the shine and gloss is much greater if, after the initial time, to use AquaWax instead of 601 and top that with the 105. Sort of sounds backwards but it can't do any harm I guess so I'll try this after my next wash. You can read this fellow's comments and technique for yourself at this link: Drayfx Fixes For The Masses: DURAGLOSS PRODUCTS SET TO GO ON TRIAL PART 4 UPDATE. This blog contains several good Duragloss articles, each one shown as a review part of the entire system.

I found the 845 to be a little tough to remove this time but not terribly so. The microfiber towel grabbed just a bit so the wax may not have hazed completely. I applied it with my Griot 6" and a finishing pad and decided to buff the wax after I completed one half of the car. Maybe I should have done the whole car and then gone back to buff rather than do a half and half. I did this because the temps are in the high 90s and in my garage where I was working it was well over 100 degrees so that probably explains it. I felt like I was working in a Southeast Asian jungle sweat shop!! But at least my summer detail is over (I like to do a full detail three times a year - spring, summer, fall) and I know the durability of the products I used this time will last until the cool weather comes in November.
 
Glad to hear it went well for you. 845 can be finicky in high heat/humidity, so it sounds like you did just fine. I don't know about the author of that article, but I can tell you the steps I recommend come from discussions and recommendations of Jerry Bailey himself. 601 is an important step in layering, not to mention allows you to immediately top it with whatever layer you're going to use next, be it more sealant or a wax. Post up a pic of that Benz pls, it sounds beautiful!
 
Thanks Richy, I'll try to upload a couple pictures from my first 845 over 105 from last year. Earlier this spring I tried 111 over 105 and I was not sure which I liked better. As LSPs, both are very durable, easy to apply and both look terrific. After yesterday I think I will give the nod slightly to 845 but make no mistake, 111 looked great on this paint too. Yes, I've had email discussions with Jerry too and his word is the definitive one. For example, when I got my Mercedes I wrote him for advice about 501 because everyone was talking about it and he said I do not need 501 on this paint at this point and to stick with the 4:1 combo of 105 or 111 and 601.

The reason I saw that blog I linked was I did a search trying to find out something about the other Duragloss sealant we never hear about - Track Claw. In fact, I started a thread here the other day to try to find out something about it. That reviewer said in his blog that he used Track Claw and spoke highly of it, especially the slickness aspect. It is geared towards racers and is suppose to be slicker than slick - so much so that speed is actually increased and dirt will not stick. I found out that NASCAR people use this product. Well, if all that is true and it is really that slick I want to try it!! Of course, I am not sure whether or not the guy that wrote these articles on Duragloss knows what he is talking about.

My camera sucks and there was little sun out the day these pictures were taken but yesterday's detail looks the same. I think I will take some shots today because the sun is suppose to burning down on us again and the pictures might show more. I agree with you that the intense heat and humidity must have been a factor. Although I probably lost five pounds in sweat yesterday (a good thing!), I think I will limit my full details to spring and fall only from now on!!
 
I've tried Track Claw and did not find it to be substantially slicker than 105.


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Yea, I thought that was all hype and Track Claw would not be that much better than their other sealants. It might just be 105 or 111 in a different and funky bottle marketed just for racers.
 
That Merc is really white and it sounds like you've already got the best advice from the man himself! I guess all I'll add is you stated you didn't know what you liked better between #105 or #111, mixed w/ #601 ofcoarse and to that I'll just remind you that #105 has "some" cleaners whereas #111 doesn't but that said, those 2 together are a great combo!

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Meticulous-Detail said:
So no cure time whatsoever with 601?
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Nope. Mixed with 501,105 or 111, you apply it to the whole car. Go back to the first panel and do the "swipe test". If it's ready (should be unless you put it in too thick) then go ahead and remove on every panel. The next is optional but is what I do: light a cigar and admire how good it looks. LOL. Once. You've removed it, you can immediately go to the next step, be it another 601/105 layer or 845 or whatever.


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Thanks Klasse, I know you are a huge fan of Duragloss products. I took some pictures after my second coat of AquaWax but they don't show anything. I took a couple in full sun but it was totally washed out because, as you pointed out, the Merc is White, really, really White! But the diamond white does have a little pearl in it and is beautiful - it should be as this paint was a $1600 option! I moved the car to the shade but still can't get the camera to tell anything but I'll post the photos anyway.

So, here is what I did - washed with CG's Clear shampoo at the "strip" ratio of 2oz per gal. Clayed with Griot's mild clay and Speed Shine lube (it really did not need it). Used my Griot 6" polisher and polishing pad to clean the paint with P21s Paintwork Cleanser (next time I'll have Squeaky Clean). Applied two coats of 105/601 about two or three hours apart. A couple hours after that I applied one coat of Collinite 845. I topped it all with AquaWax the following day and another coat of AquaWax a day after that. I am good until winter!

Forgot to mention that after claying I went with a tip to use Fast Clean and Shine prior to applying the sealant as it was suppose to help in application. As I said in a previous post, that might be true if applied by hand but I could not tell a difference with the Griot polisher.
 
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