Sprayer / mister for KSG

[Don M]

Dunk the pad, wring it out so its not dripping wet but not dried out either but if you have to go oe way or the other keep it more damp for sure. My sprayer used to spray out single streams and when it did that I would usually go with 2-3 streams. Once you clean the tip and its sprays, PLEASE MAKE THE SPRAYS SMALL AND LIGHT! A little goes a long way with KSG.

Keep the comments and questions coming, there's enough of us here with experience w/ KSG to get any Klasse noob through this and have them becoming an expert!

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Right now with a very lightly damp pad, two streams is too much, it flashes fast and reaches that difficult to remove stage very fast, so by what you're saying, I'm not using enough KSG OR water. An example of how much KSG I'm using is the spray bottle I have is about 2.9 oz and I filled it just over half way. I put two coats on today (6 hours apart) and I still have way more than enough to put on another coat, maybe two.

 

[Klasse Act]

Maybe just one stream on the pad but apply left to right and up and down and remove right away. Just asking, is the work being done in the garage or shade? Is the paint cool to the touch? Also how about the prep work before hand? In closing, what are you working on?

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[Don M]

I tried moving the steam across the pad as I sprayed, but the 'spray time' is so short that I only get a 3/8" "line." When I applied the SG without the sprayer, I would put one thin line across the diameter of the pad.

The prep was two coats of KAIO (rubbed in like you would use a compound to remove swirls) and the paint looked flawless afterward. I have some large trees in my front yard that give me some nice shade in the driveway and the surface is cool, especially yesterday with a nice breeze blowing.

My car is a 2006 Suzuki Aerio with SS paint on most of it and BC/CC on the front end, hood and fenders due to a deer strike. Here is a pic taken before I 'discovered' the twins.

 

[Klasse Act]

Car looks to be very clean, so the twins worked well on SS paint then?

You mentioned applying KSG to the pad w/o a sprayer and I hoped that worked out ok for you, can't say I've ever done that, I'd be scared too much might come out. Oh and BTW, the cap that goes over the hole comes out pretty easy w/ a thin screw driver, making pouring a lot quicker into your favorite sprayer, just sayin'.

Keep us posted about your progress, nothing wrong with regular cars using premium products, infact I wish we would see more of this.

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[The Guz]

I need to try this method. I have been doing it by hand with an applicator and have had no issues. This looks like a much easier application.

 

[Don M]

I just switched my applicator from a terry-covered sponge to a plain sponge. It was easier to keep damp and seemed to apply the SG with a lot less drag (yes I put ANOTHER coat on today, total of 5 in a month now). I was able to use 2 - 3 spritzes without it being too much, I just had to wipe the panel several times while applying the SG so it would get thin enough to flash and disappear.

 

[Klasse Act]

I just switched my applicator from a terry-covered sponge to a plain sponge. It was easier to keep damp and seemed to apply the SG with a lot less drag (yes I put ANOTHER coat on today, total of 5 in a month now). I was able to use 2 - 3 spritzes without it being too much, I just had to wipe the panel several times while applying the SG so it would get thin enough to flash and disappear.

Now Don, what type of sponge is this? I ask because a sponge, in general, is pretty pores and you could end up not getting enough down onto the paint, even though "thin is in" when it comes to KSG, so that might be a concern. Maybe try a mf applicator or even a foam one, keeping both damp. Speaking of keeping it damp, you could also mist the applicator w/ your quick detailer too, this is also an option.

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[Don M]

Now Don, what type of sponge is this? I ask because a sponge, in general, is pretty pores and you could end up not getting enough down onto the paint, even though "thin is in" when it comes to KSG, so that might be a concern. Maybe try a mf applicator or even a foam one, keeping both damp. Speaking of keeping it damp, you could also mist the applicator w/ your quick detailer too, this is also an option.

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I meant to say a foam/sponge applicator not a regular "sponge." I was using a terry-covered foam applicator that was fairly difficult to keep damp.

 

[Don M]

I think I found a helpful trick

Tonight on the way to work, I parked under some sodium-vapor lights and saw a few smears and some cloudiness on the trunk lid. The trunk was starting to get a slight amount of dew on it and I wiped off the dew with a mf towel. That's when I noticed the smears and cloudiness in that area was gone. I quickly buffed the rest of the trunk lid and the result was that it is now flawless, no smearing or cloudiness at all.

I'm wondering if all it needs is after curing for a few hours is wiping down with a lightly damp mf to make sure the finish is perfect?

 

[Klasse Act]

I think your onto something here Don but because of the cool temps, smearing shows up, good example is your inside winshield for instance. Last week my windows fogged up inside due to the very cool temps and I could see hazing too, surely its a little different but still appeared due to the coolness.

Now I think you said you've got 5x's coats on the car now, just to make sure but did each coat get the 12 hrs of cure time? With KSG being an acrylic product it truely does need time to cure.

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[Don M]

Coats 1 and 2 got 12 hours cure time, coat 3 got 6 hours and coats 4 and 5 each got 12 hours cure time.

I think I remember someone saying that the 'final wipe' of KSG should be done with 2 mf towels, one damp and one dry. Wipe the panel with the damp one, then immediately (before it has a chance to dry on its own) buff the panel with the dry one. I think what I did last night was similar, but I think I like the idea of using a LIGHTLY damp mf to wipe down each panel, just as if I was drying the car after a wash to get rid of water spots that formed where the car dried before I could get to it.

That removes water spots really well without harming the paint (the KSG is remarkably scratch resistant) so it should work with removing stubborn residue. I'm thinking this might work, because I know after washing the car, there is no residue of anything left on the surface, just a smooth clean surface.

 

[Klasse Act]

The 2 mf towel wipedown when removing KSG is new to me but I don't see why it wouldn't work but I have to think this is for when KSG is hard to remove, which it shouldn't be if done properly. I've been using KSG since 2005 w/o a single issue ever, just sayin'.

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[Don M]

The 2 mf towel wipedown when removing KSG is new to me but I don't see why it wouldn't work but I have to think this is for when KSG is hard to remove, which it shouldn't be if done properly. I've been using KSG since 2005 w/o a single issue ever, just sayin'.

Yeah, but you're the expert and I'm the newbie in this case. I'm still trying to get a handle on the learning curve. This stuff is similar to Megs synthetic sealants in the way that they always leave streaks and cloudiness for me. They are also too greasy IMO. KSG OTOH isn't greasy at all, but it will bite you if you don't apply/remove it correctly by leaving patches of unremoved sealant and some smears.

All I know is that when I wash & dry the car when it has KSG on it, afterwards there are no streaks, smears or areas of unremoved wax at all, under any lighting. So (to me anyway) it would make sense to use a damp mf for a final wipe even if it's just a lightly damp one and not one that is so damp that you have to use a separate mf to dry the water left by the first mf.

But that's why I'm here ... to learn from the guys who have more experience than me.

 

[Klasse Act]

If that removal process works for you I'm not going to knock it but I guess my concern is this, since KSG is an acrylic product and truely needs time to set up, I'd wonder if using a damp cloth would "take away" from it setting up or "taking away" from how long it lasts? This is where you come in, since this is what's working for you, only you can let us know about durability doing this so by all means, chime in from time to time and let the group know, I know I'd like to know about this new method of removal of KSG.

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[Don M]

If that removal process works for you I'm not going to knock it but I guess my concern is this, since KSG is an acrylic product and truely needs time to set up, I'd wonder if using a damp cloth would "take away" from it setting up or "taking away" from how long it lasts? This is where you come in, since this is what's working for you, only you can let us know about durability doing this so by all means, chime in from time to time and let the group know, I know I'd like to know about this new method of removal of KSG.

I can see how "disturbing" the curing process by rubbing the finish with a wet mf could adversely affect the longevity and/or curing. I think a viable alternative would be to apply the KSG one day, and then washing the car the next. That would give the KSG the 12 hour curing time it needs, and also allow you to "wet buff" the finish to remove any smears ... assuming there are any. Not that this would be feasible on a customer's car ... don't mind me, I'm just brainstorming here.

Unfortunately since I AM a newbie with Klasse AIO and KSG, I have no idea about longevity in my climate ... and I don't help matters by being "one of those" who enjoys waxing their car and will put two coats of sealant on a week (except for winter months). I could use my wife's Explorer as a test monkey (I hate SUVs) but from what I'm gathering about KSG, the coating (two coats) will last into winter taking away my ability to wash and evaluate the finish. However I did just do my brother's Silverado a week and a half ago, and his car gets washed when it rains, so his truck might make a good indicator of performance.

PS: I'm enjoying this thread, it's getting interesting. :xyxthumbs:

 

[Klasse Act]

The brainstorming is what its all about here but check this out Don. When keeping your applicator damp you thus apply the KSG damp and when removing the KSG the mf towel your using to remove the KSG should be damp enough to remove any haze and then flip the mf over to a dry section to buff, assuming you've got your mf towel folded over into 4's. Once you run out of drier sections of the mf towel, simply switch over to another one, this should be the case when doing an SUV, probably need about to do one of those.

As far as applying 2x's coats in a week, I see nothing wrong with this, ofcoarse but make sure before you start doing all this the paint is prepped properly (clay and polishing) Once you've done this, your good to go. Now if you start to feel a little grit in the paint, simply clay (it will not remove the KSG, trust me), follow with some KAIO and then a coat or two of KSG and you'll be good to go!

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[Don M]

... mf towel your using to remove the KSG should be damp enough to remove any haze ...

Back up the bus here, you mean you're SUPPOSED to use a damp MF to remove KSG? I've been using bone-dry mf towels for removal.

 

[Ipsdrew]

I've been applying with a mf sponge misted with XMT360 spray wax or QD, lets me apply thin thin coats and it buffs right off with a dry mf. When applying I've never had a "haze" like a traditional wax, the product always dries clear and I usually only need to go back and buff the occasional high spots.
For a bottle I'm currently using a 2oz. travel mister. As much as I absolutely hate Walmart they do have the best travel bottles. They actually mist KSG (if your getting a stream try faster sprays, you need a quick shot of pressure to properly push the product through the nozzle) and the tips seem to resist clogging the best (i just run the tip under warm water to clean the face and haven't had issues clogging)
I will agree that each layer makes a big difference in the looks department, even on both of my white cars. 3 or more coats really adds some depth to the shine.

 

[Klasse Act]

Back up the bus here, you mean you're SUPPOSED to use a damp MF to remove KSG? I've been using bone-dry mf towels for removal.

Well I mean the mf towel will start to get a little damp from removing KSG as its being applied with a damp applicator. I guess damp is a strong word as it will take some time for the mf removal towel to actually get what we could call "damp" from removal of KSG, sorry for the confusion.

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[Don M]

Well I mean the mf towel will start to get a little damp from removing KSG as its being applied with a damp applicator. I guess damp is a strong word as it will take some time for the mf removal towel to actually get what we could call "damp" from removal of KSG, sorry for the confusion.

But when I apply the KSG to a panel, the water from the damp applicator pad has long since evaporated and I'm buffing off the dried residue, not that there's much because I continue to wipe over the areas until what I have is so thin that in most places that you can't even see the KSG. Otherwise If I can see the residue, I am not able to remove it with a dry mf and I have to reapply the with the damp applicator over the area again and immediately wipe it off.

What I'm picturing is you using an applicator so damp that when you apply the KSG to the panel, you leave behind little water droplets that if buffed off immediately are fine, but if you wait until they dry, you have KSG-water spots that are difficult to remove.

From that standpoint , I don't see how using a damp (wrung out until almost dry) mf to wipe/buff off the KSG residue would be harmful to either the curing or the longevity/performance of the KSG.

That's how I remove water spots from washing the car when an area dries before I can get to it, with a "wrung out until nearly dry" mf. Done lightly, this removes the water spots without inducing swirls or scratches ... but then again, KSG really seems to resist swirling & scratching.

Forgive me for being dense, but I'm the type of learner that needs to see it done to really get a grip on a concept/process. Too bad you're a couple of states away, I'd love to watch/help you apply a coat of KSG to a car so I can actually SEE it being done.

Using my "car drying method" it makes it easier to see how some people can apply the KSG to the entire car then wait an hour or so before buffing it off.