Seeking wisdom--polishing

Chevota Guy

Chevota Guy

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Relatively new guy here. This 2009 Scion has spent the last 3 years completely outdoors in the CA central valley. Parched, dusty, swirled like all get out from the gas station car wash. I was sick when my college son brought it home. It also had some nasty bird signatures, eucalyptus tree oil and a heavy build up of white-dried sprinkler spray.

I tried the least aggressive first method after washing and claying with Megs 205. It worked great on the hood and rear deck. No go on the sides though. I tried M105 on the sides, but decided to try something less aggressive and switched to Megs ultimate compound. I was blown away with the results from the UC and it was super easy to work with a PC 7346 and LC orange CCS pad.

So here's my question (finally).....Since I can't see any swirls or other finishing mars, can I go straight to Klasse HGSG from the Megs UC? My reasoning is that it doesn't look like I need to go to another abrasve step like M205 and lose even more paint if I don't have to ? Thanks in advace for your help!

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You could go directly if you would like. The polishing step would only enhance the depth of color. Why not do,some jeweling with a no cut pad and some polish. Make it a mirror finish

Ed

:autowash: :buffing:
 
Eandras said:
You could go directly if you would like. The polishing step would only enhance the depth of color. Why not do,some jeweling with a no cut pad and some polish. Make it a mirror finish

Ed

:autowash: :buffing:
Click to expand...

+1..you have the m205 already
 
Do you guys recommend doing an IPA wipe down or Dawn before applying the sealant?

Poor Boys has a lot of extra waxes, which produced a long working time.

I am assuming, so does the 205, have only used the 105
 
maybe an expert can answer this....

After polishing with white pad and say m205 , aren't you down to the clearcoat and then its ready for any protection you choose....sealant and/or wax ?

Is Mr. Hernandez's post just a precaution or a necessary step?

thxs
mike
 
I always ipa after polishing. I have only used m205 a few times but have noticed it to be a bit "greasy" so I would wipe down for sure
 
mikesal57 said:
maybe an expert can answer this....

After polishing with white pad and say m205 , aren't you down to the clearcoat and then its ready for any protection you choose....sealant and/or wax ?

Is Mr. Hernandez's post just a precaution or a necessary step?

thxs
mike
Click to expand...

M205 doesn't have the amount of polishing oils that lets say M07 or SF4000 does. IPA wipe downs are great for inspecting your work as some finishing polishes that are heavy with oils may mask some of the swirl marks that may have not been removed. IPA wipe downs are very important when applying a permanent paint coating like opti-coat as those coating need a clean surface to bond to.

M205 finishes down really well and leaves the paint surface LSP ready.
 
greatwhitenorth said:
I always ipa after polishing. I have only used m205 a few times but have noticed it to be a bit "greasy" so I would wipe down for sure
Click to expand...

I have never noticed this when using M205. I will have to watch next time.
 
hernandez.art13 said:
Do you guys recommend doing an IPA wipe down or Dawn before applying the sealant?

Poor Boys has a lot of extra waxes, which produced a long working time.

I am assuming, so does the 205, have only used the 105
Click to expand...

I would definitely IPA wipedown or Eraser which I prefer)

mikesal57 said:
maybe an expert can answer this....

After polishing with white pad and say m205 , aren't you down to the clearcoat and then its ready for any protection you choose....sealant and/or wax ?

Is Mr. Hernandez's post just a precaution or a necessary step?

thxs
mike
Click to expand...

Anytime you work with polishing you are down to the clearcoat, you're just leveling it out to remove water spots, etching, scratches, defects, etc... . But polishes often leave oils which can fill, and I'd rather do that just to ensure no oils from any compounding or polishing remain. If it's very oil based you can usually see it on the paint extending from the sun's reflection.
 
Evan.J said:
I have never noticed this when using M205. I will have to watch next time.
Click to expand...
Greasy might not be the correct term, but 205 has a looooong working time and is a bit slick. That usually tells me a sealant might have trouble hanging on so I ipa wipe just to be safe
 
Thanks all for the advice. Looks like I should go to M205, followed by an IPA wipe down prior to the Klasse HGSG. I'm a fan of preserving paint thickness (especially OEM paint) and wanted to skip un-necessary polishing or chemical stripping if possible.
 
Hi there,

Sorry for the late response but I think I have the perfect photo that would reinforce your decision and give you an idea of the difference between just compounding and a finishing polish.

This is not my work. Correction was done by Brian @ SpeedFreak Detail, but it was an eye opening experience for me so I use it when the "thread" requires for it. Thank you Brian.

Here is a couple of 50/50 shots between compounded and polished. Although the compounded side is fully corrected and all swirls and defects are gone, it is the polished side that show the true beauty of the paint.

The amount of CC that you will be removing by "finishing" will be minimal.

Good luck. :xyxthumbs:
Theo.


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Eandras said:
You could go directly if you would like. The polishing step would only enhance the depth of color. Why not do,some jeweling with a no cut pad and some polish. Make it a mirror finish

Ed

:autowash: :buffing:
Click to expand...

:iagree:

Rupes Diamond Ultra Fine Gel Polish
 
Guys,

Thanks again ! You guys rock.

Rick (with a D, not an R, but the forum bleeps me.)
 
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