Dye from Microfiber stained paint

CarreraX

CarreraX

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Hi All, newbie here...Ok, Lets say someone was trying to get the sticky off their car after removing a clear bra. Now lets say that when they were trying everything to do it they put some lacquer thinner on a green microfiber and used it to get the sticky off. Now lets say that the green dye from the cloth left a light green haze on the light colored paint. How would one get that off :doh:
It wasn't used very long...oops, I mean lets say it wasn't used long but still stained none the less. about 80% of it came off with Griots #3 polish but there is still a haze...damn, I did it again. What would the next step be? Thanks in advance!
 
Did you try more lacquer thinner on a clean towel (like a white paper towel)? Wait--before you do that, is it factory paint?
 
Its factory paint. I did put some on a paper towel and was able to get a good portion off. I used it VERY sparingly. I was hoping the polish would get it all but it didn't. Im considering getting the #2 polish but wanted to get input here first. Not to mention if there is something on this forum I would prefer to buy it here.
 
Dave, how would this compare to the Griots #3 I used about 4 times? I agree that its worth a try. Ill order some~
 
CarreraX said:
Dave, how would this compare to the Griots #3 I used about 4 times? I agree that its worth a try. Ill order some~
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Couldn't say as I know nothing about Griot's Garage products.

I know PB Polish with Sealant is also great at removing stains and hard water spots just like Pro Polish is.
 
I am not just trying to sell you on Poorboy's Products as I've seemed to have fallen from the graces of the Poorboy's club a few years back. :dig:

I recommend the product purely because in my extensive experience using it, it works well.
 
I just read up on the PB World Pro polish 2 but Im wondering if it would be to abrasive? If chemicals cant do it then Im thinking it may take something more abrasive. The paint is currently perfect and I really done want to mess it up. You said the pro polish will (should) remove below surface stains so that is probably my best bet.......I think.
 
tuscarora dave said:
I am not just trying to sell you on Poorboy's Products as I've seemed to have fallen from the graces of the Poorboy's club a few years back. :dig:

I recommend the product purely because in my extensive experience using it, it works well.
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And I REALLY appreciate it. I just need to get this corrected. It really bothers me. Its white with a VERY light green haze in a few areas.
 
I just ordered the PB Pro polish and also Griots #2 just cause I needed it. Ill check back in later and also report on how it worked. Still interested in other options. Thanks!
 
CarreraX said:
I just read up on the PB World Pro polish 2 but Im wondering if it would be to abrasive? If chemicals cant do it then Im thinking it may take something more abrasive. The paint is currently perfect and I really done want to mess it up. You said the pro polish will (should) remove below surface stains so that is probably my best bet.......I think.
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The pro polish 2 is too abrasive. It's what I linked with added non diminishing abrasives in it so you get the double wham of a strong chemical and a cutting abrasive. It removes clear somewhat quickly. The regular pro polish is what you want. Pro polish 2 has it's place but for what you are trying to achieve I'd not use PP2 for that.
 
CarreraX said:
I just read up on the PB World Pro polish 2 but Im wondering if it would be to abrasive? If chemicals cant do it then Im thinking it may take something more abrasive. The paint is currently perfect and I really done want to mess it up. You said the pro polish will (should) remove below surface stains so that is probably my best bet.......I think.
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I've had stains on light colored vehicles that M-105 wouldn't remove and PB Pro Polish removed them. You want to work wet with a DA and a finishing pad when you try it, and go over it several times as needed adding fresh product to the pad each time you do a few passes. So it would be load up the pad, polish the greenish area, clean pad with towel, load up pad with product, polish the greenish area, repeat as necessary until you either remove the staining or determine that it's not going to work for your particular stain.

PB Pro Polish is a very effective metal polish too and has a looong shelf life so it won't go to waste.
 
tuscarora dave said:
I've had stains on light colored vehicles that M-105 wouldn't remove and PB Pro Polish removed them. You want to work wet with a DA and a finishing pad when you try it, and go over it several times as needed adding fresh product to the pad each time you do a few passes. So it would be load up the pad, polish the greenish area, clean pad with towel, load up pad with product, polish the greenish area, repeat as necessary until you either remove the staining or determine that it's not going to work for your particular stain.

PB Pro Polish is a very effective metal polish too and has a looong shelf life so it won't go to waste.
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Thanks Dave. I just received notification that the PB Pro will be here Tuesday. I am going to do exactly what you suggest. You say to use a finishing pad. All I have is a Griots foam polishing pad and also a foam wax pad. Will one of these be ok? I will be using my Griots DA polisher. This is what I have:
Griots Garage Random Orbital Polish & Wax Kit, Griots Garage Dual Action Polisher, Griots machine polishes, Best of Show Wax
 
CarreraX said:
Thanks Dave. I just received notification that the PB Pro will be here Tuesday. I am going to do exactly what you suggest. You say to use a finishing pad. All I have is a Griots foam polishing pad and also a foam wax pad. Will one of these be ok? I will be using my Griots DA polisher. This is what I have:
Griots Garage Random Orbital Polish & Wax Kit, Griots Garage Dual Action Polisher, Griots machine polishes, Best of Show Wax
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Either one of those pads will be fine, I'd use the waxing pad though if given the choice. PB Pro Polish, while being a chemical polish, is a pad dependent polish. The chemical part cleans and dissolves stuff during use and if you increase the cutting ability of the pad, you have both the chemical and the cut of the pad working to remove material, (paint is to be included in the word material among other things) being that you are just trying to remove a stain in the paint and not trying to remove the paint itself you'd want to select a pad that has no cutting ability. Understand?
 
Thanks Dave. Ill use the wax pad. I understand about the not removing material part. If this doesn't work, ill need to go the other direction. Thanks for the help. BTW, this is what Im working on.
 
CarreraX said:
Thanks Dave. Ill use the wax pad. I understand about the not removing material part. If this doesn't work, ill need to go the other direction. Thanks for the help. BTW, this is what Im working on.
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Nice!! Through interacting in this thread I've learned not to use microfiber towels combined with lacquer thinner on light colored paint. I've used MF with lacquer thinner many times, so I just guess I've been lucky not to run across this issue. From now on if I need to use it I'll do so with white cotton towels. Thanks for Posting and welcome to the forum.:props:
 
Thanks Dave. Glad to be here. Im new to the paint care stuff. Ive always built racecars etc but never interested in the paint and detailing. Now Im trying to learn and am really enjoying it. At least WAS until I removed the clear bra and stained the paint :)
 
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