Lots of newbie questions

[dlowry81]

Not sure if I'm putting this in the correct forum section, but I have several questions. I have read probably over a 100 articles and threads on this site, so please don't think I haven't researched some. A little preface before the questions, I just detailed my car and truck with Meguiars car wash soap, clay bar kit using the detail spray as lube, and cleaner wax applied with PC and 5.5" lake country ccs green pad. I chose the cleaner wax for several reasons mainly because I don't have the time for these show car results with a multi step process and both vehicles paints aren't neglected (probably minor swirl marks and spider webbing based on the typical opinion around here).

Questions:
Every video/how to I see shows cars that even before washing are pretty clean by my standards. How the hell do I get it super clean during the wash part so I can do multi step paint correction? I spent probably 20 mins on front bumper and still didn't get 100% of the bugs off.

When applying the cleaner wax I didn't notice it hazing much to wipe off with mf towel. A slight film could be seen, but honestly not much. Is this because its a cleaner wax instead of traditional wax or was I not using enough product? For reference I was probably using an X on the pad for a door. My understanding is I could do a whole panel with a cleaner wax unlike what a polish would require. Any tips on applying cleaner wax with PC since most articles I've read are geared towards multi step polish?

Last question after I was done the vertical panels look great for the results I wanted. The hood and roof and look very blotchy under certain light and I noticed swirl marks that appear it might've come from clay bar. I didn't clay my wife's car because its much newer and the paint felt pretty good. What could the blotchiness be? Not sure how to describe it just looks like leftover residue under certain light, but I've wiped it with mf towel and I can't feel it. It's a white truck so hard to pick up. Also for a newbie what steps to fix the minor swirls from claying?

I know this is long, but I'm so down in the dumps right now. Spent alot of research and bought all my tools and didn't quite go how I expected. I worked slow and tried not to overuse product, but applying the product just didn't look like any how to videos. Of course I was using cleaner wax and not applying a polish. Thanks for any help.

 

[cleanmycorolla]

Are you using APC or bug remover for bugs to fully clear them?

How are you washing the car? Buckets, hose, pressure washer?

What cleaner wax are you using? Not all products are supposed to haze, in fact most are wipe on wipe off. Did you read the bottles directions and do it right? This also may answer why you have some hazy spots. Also you should break all panels into sections, doing an entire door at once I something I wouldn't do at least.

Also, as for hazy parts, sometimes cleaners waxes just won cut the job. May need to step it up!

Also how many pads did you use to apply this to your car? When I use a cleaner wax on my DA I'm using at least 4-5 pads on the entire car to ensure I work clean.

Sounds like you may be trying to rush this all together and not fully preparing and prepping and taking your time. Even with a cleaner wax you want to take your time. Break it out over days if need.

 

[inDetail]

It all depends on the paint. Some areas may have more damage then others requiring more work.

Bug issues. Get a Bug brick. Very porous stiff yellow sponge. I never scratched paint using it as directed. Rips bugs, sap right off the paint.

Cleaner/wax. They are so many and all very different. My goal is to find one that cuts really well and has a long work time that way I am getting the most out of doing a one step.
IMO: BlackFire AIO, Menzerna FMJ and Autoglym Super Resin polish give me what I am looking for. Another quality one is Chemical Guys Black Light. Once my Menzerna is almost kicked I'm going to stick with BlackFire. You just have to work it until it disappears no buffing required.
You just have to find the right pad combo for the paint you are working on. Keep in mind that AIO combine 3 steps into 1. Given that they don't do anyone one thing to perfection so total correction may not be possible depending paint condition and how hard the paint is. However they save time and will be your main bread and butter when detailing for cash.
Like Corrolla said. Take your time. Even though it's a AIO they still flash out. Then buff it off and you may have to hit some spots again. You just have to take your time.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Questions:
Every video/how to I see shows cars that even before washing are pretty clean by my standards. How the hell do I get it super clean during the wash part so I can do multi step paint correction? I spent probably 20 mins on front bumper and still didn't get 100% of the bugs off.

I talk about two different types of washing in my how-to book, the aggressive wash and the gentle wash, the aggressive wash is for neglected cars before a detailing session, this is where you really spend a lot of time getting the car clean and rinsed thoroughly.

As for bugs on the front of a car, once they are left on to the paint that they have completely dried and in sunny weather baked-on it's pretty tough to get them 100% off. Some of what you're seeing is probably where the paint is etched. This can look like bug splatter still on the paint but actually it's now missing paint.

For the actual bug guts, you need to find a way to soften them with water. IF you spray water on them the water just runs off onto the ground, that's what most people do but it doesn't work, gravity gets in the way.

Here's a technique that does work...

Tips & Tricks: How to remove dried bug spatter or bug guts

Bug Spatter can actually eat through and remove paint if left on too long...

Tip: Water soften the dried bug guts and splatter with water first.

Trick: Use a towel to hold water in place on a vertical panel.​

Here's a tip I posted in 2005, the idea being to use the towel to hold the moisture onto the paint and thus the bug splatter where it can go to work softening and loosening the splatter. A large beach towel works well for this...

This was my Honda Pilot in our garage where I would also wash the garage because it's pretty hard to wash a car in the desert without the dry heat or the wind drying water before you can dry your car.

Take a wash rag and saturate it with water or your car wash solution.

Place the wet wash rag on top of the dried bug splatter and allow it to sit for a few minutes. A variation of this would be to use warm/hot water.

To speed up the process, apply some gentle pressure while drinking a cold soft drink and if need be, hum or whistle a little diddy.

A variation of the above but for a larger area would be to use a larger cloth such as a bath towel. Saturate a clean, soft 100% cotton towel with water and place it over the affected area.

Another variation for headlights and fenders...

Big Picture
The idea being to use some type of bath towel or microfiber towel or even wash cloth or wet chamois to trap and hold water onto the dried bug splatter in order to soften and re-liquefy it so you can more easily remove it without causing damage to the delicate, scratch-sensitive clear coat finish.

When applying the cleaner wax I didn't notice it hazing much to wipe off with mf towel. A slight film could be seen, but honestly not much. Is this because its a cleaner wax instead of traditional wax or was I not using enough product? For reference I was probably using an X on the pad for a door. My understanding is I could do a whole panel with a cleaner wax unlike what a polish would require. Any tips on applying cleaner wax with PC since most articles I've read are geared towards multi step polish?

When using a cleaner/wax by machine there's two basic types of process,

Neglected Paint - Use the product heavy or wet. (This means use lots of product)

Maintenance - This is for taking care of paint already buffed out previous and then you can cut down on the amount of product to use.


I'm guessing you were working on neglected paint and it could be you just need to use a little more product.

What we're you using? Cleaner/waxes vary a lot.

Last question after I was done the vertical panels look great for the results I wanted. The hood and roof and look very blotchy under certain light and I noticed swirl marks that appear it might've come from clay bar. I didn't clay my wife's car because its much newer and the paint felt pretty good. What could the blotchiness be? Not sure how to describe it just looks like leftover residue under certain light, but I've wiped it with mf towel and I can't feel it. It's a white truck so hard to pick up. Also for a newbie what steps to fix the minor swirls from claying?

Just a guess, but if the entire hood stared out dull, you probably shined up some areas and the blotchy areas are areas you didn't shine-up and now they stand out more being surrounded by shinier paint.

Cleaner/waxes work really well but when working on neglected paint you really need to use the product heavy or wet so you have lots of "liquid" on the surface working for you.

Inside this "liquid", (the cleaner/wax), are the cleaning agents, in some cases abrasives, polishing oils, carrying agents and the wax. Use to little and you don't have enough of these things working the paint.

I know this is long, but I'm so down in the dumps right now. Spent alot of research and bought all my tools and didn't quite go how I expected. I worked slow and tried not to overuse product, but applying the product just didn't look like any how to videos. Of course I was using cleaner wax and not applying a polish. Thanks for any help.

The confusion some people have about waxes is that most of the "talk" about waxes is about applying a thin coat. This is correct AFTER a person has already done some type of compounding and/or polishing as at this point you only need a thin coat.

When using a one-step cleaner/wax on a car that is neglected or older, or at least not regularly waxed, then a thin coat or only using a LITTLE product is incorrect as you want a lot of the cleaners, solvents, carrying agents, abrasives, etc. on the surface working the paint for you.

 

[dlowry81]

Thanks so much for the detailed reply. To answer some of the additional questions about my technique. I washed with a bucket with grit guard and a hose. I used 4 pads for the truck with Meguiars consumer version at Autozone of the #6 cleaner wax. My plan going forward is to rewash Friday after work and spent my time Saturday with the #9 swirl remover with orange pads and then follow up with #26 wax. The doors and side of truck bed look great so I will just focus on front fenders, hood, and roof. That's where I noticed the swirl marks and spider webbing. Is this a decent plan?

Also since my wife's car is garage most of the day and its fairly new should I skip a cleaner wax and just use a true wax?

Thanks again for all the help I've got much respect for the results you guys get. My cars aren't show cars I just want to do a good job of maintaining them and try not to screw up along the way. The amount of products is truely dizzying for a beginner. Just trying to narrow it down to what works for my needs and desired results.