Ultimate Compound Question.

Dogfather

Dogfather

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After searching several threads in several forums, I've seen there are many who feel UC can finish LSP ready while the majority feel it needs to be followed with a finishing polish.

I was wondering if the LSP happened to be an AIO, would that obviate the need for a finishing polish?
 
That could work out fine... as always, there is no "go to" combo that will work for everyone. Do your test spots and figure out what works for you.

UC, M105, D300, FG400, (you name the compound), might finish out LSP ready on some paint (usually lighter colors) and may require 1-2 finishing steps on other paint... it just depends on so many things.
 
I agree with zmcgovern45

I am one of those people who have experienced UC finishing LSP ready. But a lot of it will depend on the pad and the technique applied and the type of paint.

For example, LC CCS 5.5" orange pad with medium pressure will finish LSP ready on my car. However, if I get aggressive and crush a 4" pad, it will haze my paint.
 
Although some compounds "appear" lsp ready on lighter colors, they really aren't. The extra polishing step is needed to bring out more gloss. Sometimes it's hard to see a haze or even micro marring on light paints if you don't look hard.
If you're compounding ANY color I would always recommend following with a polish.
 
KillaCam said:
Although some compounds "appear" lsp ready on lighter colors, they really aren't. The extra polishing step is needed to bring out more gloss. Sometimes it's hard to see a haze or even micro marring on light paints if you don't look hard.
If you're compounding ANY color I would always recommend following with a polish.
Click to expand...

I agree... I always like to follow up any compound with a polish just as a personal preference, even if it appears LSP ready, but there are always times when you have to weigh that decision based on customer (or your own) expectations. If someone is expecting maximum defect removal out of a 1 step and you can use a compound and see great results, then it is probably not worth the added expense to the customer to polish it out.

If the compound appears to leave an LSP ready finish, just do a quick test spot with a finishing polish and see if you can notice a difference between the polished area and the compounded area. Check it under several lighting conditions. If you see no remarkable difference, IMO it is not worth the additional time to proceed with a polishing step.

Easy to see Examples (view larger size):

After compounding (minor haze noticeable on black stripe)
1003679_265461646925295_795194574_n.jpg


After polishing (haze removed)
179714_265461650258628_164229922_n.jpg


Test spot to show the difference finish polishing makes... lower portion shows haze left behind on the soft paint from D300 - Top was polished with FF4500
1012771_265461710258622_656364483_n.jpg
 
When I used UC I found it to be very smooth and could have very easily gone straight to an LSP at that point. However, I went on and hit the car with UP and did not regret it. The surface went from smooth to glass like and I noticed the shine improved as well.
 
I think UC has fillers and such that will give you a better look than is actually there. I'd wipe down with 10-15% alcohol solution and take another look. If you see some hazing or left over micro-marring, then polish before LSP. If not, then go to your LSP.

Personally I am always going to polish after any type of compound...that's just my OCD though.
 
Thanks for the responses. I don't doubt that UC should be followed with something, but what I was wondering was if your average AIO was up to the task of meeting the needs of both the finishing polish and the LSP, thereby saving a step. I know I'm lazy, but I like spending more time sitting on my porch looking at my work rather than doing the work.
 
Dogfather said:
Thanks for the responses. I don't doubt that UC should be followed with something, but what I was wondering was if your average AIO was up to the task of meeting the needs of both the finishing polish and the LSP, thereby saving a step. I know I'm lazy, but I like spending more time sitting on my porch looking at my work rather than doing the work.
Click to expand...

That is the theory, after all that's the concept of D300 followed by D301. As much as the perfectionists would like you to follow with a polish...I think you will be very happy sitting on your porch after UC and an AIO.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
That is the theory, after all that's the concept of D300 followed by D301. As much as the perfectionists would like you to follow with a polish...I think you will be very happy sitting on your porch after UC and an AIO.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That sounds good enough to me. I think I'll give it a shot. Especially since my car is white and driven daily.
 
Dogfather said:
Thanks. That sounds good enough to me. I think I'll give it a shot. Especially since my car is white and driven daily.
Click to expand...

If it's a white DD I think you will be fine stopping with the UC and going to LSP. (Apologies to the perfectionists)
 
Dogfather said:
Thanks. That sounds good enough to me. I think I'll give it a shot. Especially since my car is white and driven daily.
Click to expand...
Are you considering using one of Meguiar's AIO's after UC?
No worry about any of Meguiar's T.S.-oils that way. :props:

:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Are you considering using one of Meguiar's AIO's after UC?
No worry about any of Meguiar's T.S.-oils that way. :props:

:)

Bob
Click to expand...

Something to consider but probably not. I could deal with a quick but careful 50/50 IPA wipedown. Thanks.
 
FUNX725 said:
JMHO:
" One Step Forward & Two Steps Back" ~ Johnny Winter."

Bob
Click to expand...

Agree here...If you don't really care if you are fully correcting and the paint is where you are happy with it after wiping off the UC, then probably don't need to wipe down with an IPA. You could go straight to something like BF WDAFPP after UC. I've done this combo (topped with BF CS) and you'll get a nice look out of it with a good sealant to boot.
 
wdmaccord said:
Agree here...If you don't really care if you are fully correcting and the paint is where you are happy with it after wiping off the UC, then probably don't need to wipe down with an IPA. You could go straight to something like BF WDAFPP after UC. I've done this combo (topped with BF CS) and you'll get a nice look out of it with a good sealant to boot.
Click to expand...

I always thought IPA wipedowns served two purposes. One was to get an accurate appraisal of defect removal, and the other to optimize bonding of the sealant. In my particular case, the latter would be important, the former, not so much.
 
Dogfather said:
I always thought IPA wipedowns served two purposes.
One was to get an accurate appraisal of defect removal,
and the other to optimize bonding of the sealant.
In my particular case, the latter would be important, the former, not so much.
Click to expand...
RE: "Bonding"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosca:
"I've never walked out into a garage only to find out that overnight the wax or paint sealant I applied slipped off
the car's paint and piled-up on the floor surrounding the car because it didn't bond or stick to the paint".

:D

Bob
 
As I said, I have gone straight to WDAFPP after UC. I may have done a very light APC wipedown (like 1:10 strength) just to get the dust off. Nothing that would affect much of the fillers or oils in UC. Haven't had any problem with the WDAFPP. Would you have issues with other sealants bonding or not curing right...I can't answer that.

I would say if you are concerned, then IPA after UC and polish before you put on your LSP.
 
I recently used UC and found I need to use the UP to get rid of some micro-marring left from the UC. I did UC, UP then collinite 476s as a LSP.
 
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