Recent content by 140BPM

Old thread, but wanted to post an update... I took the advice of the majority of the replies and went with the menzerna line. FG400, SI1500, SF4500. Couldn't be happier. So much quicker with better results than the XMT line. Even used this on an older Jeep that had conventional clear with...

Unbelievable... It happened again today on my driver door this time. Had the qd and microfiber ready but was too late. Worst luck ever. How am I supposed to enjoy driving when each time I take it out I gets another etch mark?! So pissed. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Thanks for linking that Mike! Don't know how I missed it while searching earlier. Good read. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

I usually do carry all that around but took it out a few weeks ago while detailing the interior and forgot to put it back in. Besides, I doubt the 20 min delay in getting it off would've mattered... It was most likely there for hours already at that point. I was at work and don't have the luxury...

See, that looks like regular bird crappy to me custmsprty. I got unlucky with that nasty berry colored crap. I've had some luck getting the usual stuff off in time, but not today. It's surprising bc this cc is harder than most. Just hoping for some magic answer that probably doesn't exist...

2009 Nissan 370z (yes, another thread about this dreadful paint)... Brief overview: Full detail less than 2 months ago (clay, polish, black diamond paint sealant (2 coats for coverage), and menzerna color lock carnuba on top of that). Car has not seen rain since and is garage kept - only drive...

great advice, thanks Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Yep, went over it with some xmt #1 and reapplied sealant using a pure carnauba this time. All is good. Thanks for the advice. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

I plan on using Carpro eraser next time before applying sealant, but I also incorporate glazes after polish before sealing. From what I understand the IPA wipedown process is to maximize the sealant bond, so if that is the case it should be the last step just before the sealant, right? Where...

Not this one. I recently switched to Menzerna products from XMT partly because of the difficulty removing defects. As others have stated in related threads, "I can vouch for the Nissans and Infinitis that have the 'hard clear coat' label on the hood, they aren't lying."

Again, I just want to remove the top sealant, don't want to do any actual correction. Do you think one quick pass with light swirl remover will do the trick or will it require a few passes? I have no idea how durable the black diamond sealant is yet - this was my very first application...

it is definitely not soft paint :) (09 Nissan) Again, it looked absolutely perfect after applying the sealant. Wasn't until I hand applied the tech wax that some undesirable effects were noticed. could I just go over it lightly with an ultra fine swirl remover and then reglaze/seal?

I recently did a complete polish and sealed with Pinnacle Black Label sealant (2 thin coats over 48 hours). All looked phenomenal. After about a week I decided to put an additional thin layer of wax on before winter sets in. Here is the problem. Unfortunately the only thing I had on hand was...

just noticed on the "agressiveness" chart linked above that the FG400 is shown as 10 of 10 on the scale. How much more risk is involved when using FG400 compared to SI1500? I'm just an amateur with an entry level porter cable... this is why I was initially thinking about the SI1500 since it is...

Cool, 2 solid votes for FG400 then SF4500. And yes, this is dark paint - magnetic black '09 Nissan. Thanks for the input guys, will try this combo soon!