So you want to Opti-Coat do yah?

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Opti-Coat 2.0
OPT
Optimum Polymer Technologies

I am sure there are several how to posts, and videos on Opti-Coat, but this is my How-to, and pricing guide so that your customers are happy with the job and price.


What is Opti-Coat?: (OPT)

OPT is an advanced ceramic based polymer that acts as another, harder layer of clear coat. It cures harder and is more resistant to marring and swirl marks.
Acid Rain, Bird bombs, and light sand abrasions are also thwarted by this product.

**That does not mean your paint in invincible**

The Hydrophobic nature of OPT, allows for dirt to just wash off, and it hardly sticks to the surface.
It can be used on virtually every single surface of the exterior of the vehicle, making this one of the most versatile products on the market!

Best of all, Its a permanent coatng, it never errodes or washes off. Its resistant to acid based chemicals, and degreasers.


Prep work?

Prep work includes wash/clay bar/ iron-x decontamination spray/ compound/ polish/ glaze/ IPA spray and wipe.

Not every car will need this work, but the paint has to be 110% perfect or the OPT will seal the defects in perminently, or until you polish the OPT off and start over. This process is where is get expensive for the customer.

The prep work should be done on a hourly basis. $40-$60 an hour is the average rate. Charge them for the product cost $60-$80. Set a price based on how long it takes for specific vehicles. Give the customer a set price based on a comfortable time you can complete the job.

If you want to charge a flat rate then have an idea of how long it takes, so you can gauges a proper price, so that your not loosing money.

These are rough estimates, and prices vary based on your rate.

Coupe- 6 hours
Sedan- 7 hours
Truck Reg cab- 6 hours
Truck Extended- 7 hours
Truck Crew- 8 hours
Passenger Van-8 hours
Utility Van- 9 hours

I have seen prices all the way from $400-$800 for the complete job.

What do I charge?

At a rate of $50/hour I take these steps to complete the job.

**Note I only charge hourly for Opticoating because it requires a lot of work in order to apply it.

Step 1: Wash vehicle with a degreasing soap, spray with Iron-X to dissolve iron particulates in the paint.

Step2: Clay Bar with clay lube, or a light degreaser to remove wax, tar, bugs, and any contaminants in the paint. Affirm the panels are smooth with no catches or rough spots.

Step 3: Dry, and Measure paint 6 places on each panel with a digital paint gauge. Get an average per panel so you know what kind of work can be done safely.

Step 4: Assess paint, is it bad? medium? or good? Will get away with a polish or compound job or will you have to wet sand scratches out?

Step 5: Asses body condition, any PDR spots? sell the service to remove the dents around the whole car for a flat educated rate.

Step 6: Tape all trim, windows, plastics, and seams. Begin Wet sanding/Compounding, polishing, or Swirl removal process.

Step 7: Remove any chemicals with IPA or body shop safe cleaner spray. Apply liberally and clean thoroughly.

Step 8: Working one panel at a time inspect with a sun gun or UV working light, make sure all imperfections have been worked out.

Step 9: Grab the yellow pad provided, make and X with the product, smear it around to prep the pad. (Each subsequent application only requires a few dots of chemical) Apply to one panel at a time, wait until it falshes (5 minutes) and wipe any streaks clean. If you dont wipe it down with a clean microfiber towel, the high spots will cure that way and look awful.

Step 10: Continue one panel at a time until you have completed the vehicle. Allow for 12 hours of curing time before applying an optional secondary coat. 1 20ml Syringe should last two cars or two coats.

**Note- Surface will be tacky and grab the rag as you level the streaks and high spots down, this is NORMAL in the first half hour. Avoid touching it with anything for 24 hours, allow product to cure, or you will have OPT failure.


To take care of the OPT, you can wax it , but you will have difficulty getting it to stick because the hydrophobic nature of the OPT. Regular rinse and two bucket hand washes every week will keep the car new looking.

 
This product sounds great where can I buy some?
 
Good write-up.

Is the application the same for any currently-available consumer Optimum coating?
 
This smells like that canned pork meat produced by the Hormel Foods Corporation...
 
Good write-up.

Is the application the same for any currently-available consumer Optimum coating?

No, this has much longer curing time compared to nano skin, and glass coat. This product is also completely different then most. You can apply it with a small paint gun, or an applicator pad. But streaks must be buffed out after the initial 5 min flash time.

Optimum Gloss-Coat?

The product is now call Opti-Gloss Coat, but it is essentially the same.
 
No, this has much longer curing time compared to nano skin, and glass coat. This product is also completely different then most. You can apply it with a small paint gun, or an applicator pad. But streaks must be buffed out after the initial 5 min flash time.

Optimum Gloss-Coat?

The product is now call Opti-Gloss Coat, but it is essentially the same.

So you're saying you are STILL able to get Opti-Coat 2.0, me thinks not.
(Although I know of one local installer (not me) that bought up all he could get and will sell you a kit for $250.)

Essentially the same ya' say.

Again.... ME - THINKS - NOT!


Gloss-Coat is the same as Opti-Coat 2.0 as Mustang is to Camaro.
(One is low and slick, the other is raised up on it's haunches and snarls at ya'.)

Different formula, different application, different warranty (or lack thereof) as has been discussed ad nauseam here and elsewhere. :dblthumb2:
 
So you're saying you are STILL able to get Opti-Coat 2.0, me thinks not.
(Although I know of one local installer (not me) that bought up all he could get and will sell you a kit for $250.)

Essentially the same ya' say.

Again.... ME - THINKS - NOT!


Gloss-Coat is the same as Opti-Coat 2.0 as Mustang is to Camaro.
(One is low and slick, the other is raised up on it's haunches and snarls at ya'.)

Different formula, different application, different warranty (or lack thereof) as has been discussed ad nauseam here and elsewhere. :dblthumb2:


Well I know they do not produce the 2.0 product. It was replaced by Opti-Gloss coat...and yes its the same ceramic polymer. I have spoken on the phone with the dealers. It isn't as thick because its a ##### to polish off, they realized they didn't need it as thick to provide the same protection. ANNNND....the 2.0 never comes with a warranty, only the PRO version does.

And you can still get 2.0 but its a bit more pricey because it comes with 20ml, rather than 10ml. The 2.0 isn't sold by dealers anymore, but you can get it on Amazon or Ebay.

Thanks for the input.
 
And OptiGloss is still better than everything I have tested.
 
Gloss coat = semi permanent

Opti coat 2.0 = permanent and no longer available.
 
lasts 2 years, and opti coat 2.0 and PRO was discovered to only last between 2-5 years as well, which is why the warranty has dropped to 5 years. The company recognized this, and stopped producing the 2.0 and reinstated it as Opti gloss coat, thinner, temporary, and just as good. I have it on my car right now, and my supra has PRO on it, and the results are the exact same.
 
Let me start by admitting that I am a Jerk. That being understood...

I am confused by your post on Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0; a product which has been discontinued, but was well understood and greatly discussed here on the Forum during it's reign as King of "Permanent" Coatings

It appears that you put some effort into the composition of your post. You used BOLD type, COLOR, Paragraphs and all variation of punctuation marks.

This makes it disturbing that the content and composition seems to have been neglected:

This statement is NOT True: "Best of all, Its a permanent coatng (sp), it never errodes or washes off. Its resistant to acid based chemicals, and degreasers."

What is "loosing" money? Is it the opposite of the currency used by a profligate or spendthrift?

When you are typing, you may see a squiggly RED line below a word; this is an indication that the Computer thinks you might be spelling it incorrectly. Ignore it...you are probably right.

Caution this is a spell checker only and will not prevent Homonyms, such as to vs too and lose vs. loose.

Hydrophobic should not be confused with oleophobic


Welcome to AGO
 
I was n00b here once. I don't remember getting many replies to my first few posts. Then again, my first post wasn't... that.
 
lasts 2 years, and opti coat 2.0 and PRO was discovered to only last between 2-5 years as well, which is why the warranty has dropped to 5 years. The company recognized this, and stopped producing the 2.0 and reinstated it as Opti gloss coat, thinner, temporary, and just as good. I have it on my car right now, and my supra has PRO on it, and the results are the exact same.

Where did you get the 2-5 thing? That is nonesense. There are many cars driving with opti coat that are years past that number.
 
So you're saying you are STILL able to get Opti-Coat 2.0, me thinks not.
(Although I know of one local installer (not me) that bought up all he could get and will sell you a kit for $250.)

Essentially the same ya' say.

Again.... ME - THINKS - NOT!


Gloss-Coat is the same as Opti-Coat 2.0 as Mustang is to Camaro.
(One is low and slick, the other is raised up on it's haunches and snarls at ya'.)

Different formula, different application, different warranty (or lack thereof) as has been discussed ad nauseam here and elsewhere. :dblthumb2:

You know this person? I have no idea who they are but I've seen their posts on a few websites and have held back from screaming scam. I standby that pricing is ridiculous for 2.0 since Gloss Coat is superior.
 
:welcome: ... to AGO!!

After reading your introductory post:
I conclude that you also invented the bullseye.

Bob
 
This smells like that canned pork meat produced by the Hormel Foods Corporation...

Oh MY! :laughing:

Hmmmm.... you mean canned scam er Spam. :eek: :rolleyes:





:welcome: ... to AGO!!

After reading your introductory post:
I conclude that you also invented the bullseye.

Bob

Bob my friend, being as it's the middle of the night, I'm lying in bed, and REALLY don't want to go to the family room to get my laptop you my well worded colleague will be my only reply this evening.
(Lord knows I have to/will/can say more in this thread.) :D

Without further adieu you shall receive the "dead on target" award for the evening. ;)
 
Let me start by admitting that I am a Jerk. That being understood...

I am confused by your post on Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0; a product which has been discontinued, but was well understood and greatly discussed here on the Forum during it's reign as King of "Permanent" Coatings

It appears that you put some effort into the composition of your post. You used BOLD type, COLOR, Paragraphs and all variation of punctuation marks.

This makes it disturbing that the content and composition seems to have been neglected:

This statement is NOT True: "Best of all, Its a permanent coatng (sp), it never errodes or washes off. Its resistant to acid based chemicals, and degreasers."

What is "loosing" money? Is it the opposite of the currency used by a profligate or spendthrift?

When you are typing, you may see a squiggly RED line below a word; this is an indication that the Computer thinks you might be spelling it incorrectly. Ignore it...you are probably right.

Caution this is a spell checker only and will not prevent Homonyms, such as to vs too and lose vs. loose.

Hydrophobic should not be confused with oleophobic


Welcome to AGO


Every forum has to have theirs, and you fill it quite well my friend. Thanks for the welcoming.
 
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