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Folex is a great carpet cleaner, very hard to beat.

That would be my assessment as well, the DP feels more 'grabby' compared to the S&W. As long as you don't apply too much pressure and keep the towels clean, waterless washing is quite safe.

I guess the washer is a good thing, even though I have never used one (except one came on the 5" Edge BP). Due to the nature of the PC, heat is generated from the outside of the pad and travels in and up, essentially up the threads of the BP. The heat has no where to go and the BP absorbs it...

Well I might as well say it before someone else does, are you using a washed in between the PC and the BP?

The Pro Polish is a very versatile product with a rotary. Using a wool pad with the PP will remove sanding marks. Just don't apply too much in the sun, as noted, the products dry out faster making it difficult to remove.

Are they truly aluminum or just the aluminum looking wheel covers? I have seen quite a few RVs looking the way you describe but they were all the aluminum covers (glorified hub caps :)). FWIW, what did you end up getting?

Welcome to the site! Glad everything is working out for you :)

I have found that the Natty's red is a little easier to spread by hand compared to the blue. That is the biggest difference I have found. I haven't used them both side by side so comparing looks wouldn't be fair for me to do so.

Also, don't think the 'not factory installed' is going to work out like it does with window tinting in NH on the front windows ... here are a few pics of vettes with plates though.

Not much you can do since it's a law to have them on in NH ... If you are really reluctant, having it on the front dash would be better than not having it at all.

If you dilute the Bug Squash 1:3 (BS:water), the LSP is more likely to remain in tact. Many people have reviewd the BS saying that when diluted, it isn't harsh to the LSP. Now, almost anything removes the LSP but it's just a matter of how much. Your best bet is to do a test. Wash the vehicle and...

Congrats, what are you planning on using it for? Final finishing, swirl removal, wax application, etc?

I agree with everyone else, that's awesome! I did a ride along here in Loudon last year and it was simply amazing. It was nothing like I expected it to be even after following Nascar for more than 1/2 my life. Next up will be the driving experience :). I'm curious what the COT cars in the garage...

It sounds like you are generally doing everything correct. I would be sure that the polish is broken down before you stop polishing because the dusting may not be a good source for you to stop. You should stop when the polish has completely broken down, which will look a little opaque with...

I believe Clean Dean from Like New Auto Detailing (and the Clean Dean video) is from the Howell, NJ area, which from the looks of it is 20 mins away. He would be the guy to contact if your looking for a professional detailer in your area.

Well comparing a "certified detailer" to a certified mechanic is impossible because there isn't a nationwide company/firm/ whatever that certifies detailers. It simply doesn't exist (like the ASE). Sure some companies may say that they certify detailer's but there is no recognition towards that...

Poorboy's offers 2 glazes, White Diamond which is for lighter colors and will make any vehicle brighter and the Black Hole will darken the paint and give you the deep carnauba look. You can use either on whatever color you want, the visual differences won't be all that noticeable.

Well, as you figured out, polishing is one of the most important steps in detailing. Without nicely polished paint, even the nicest wax will still look like crap. Klasse AIO is a chemical polish and does nothing to remove swirls or to darken the paint. Without polishing, a filling glaze sounds...

3-4 coats will last more than a month on its own. A quick refresher coat after every other wash or every 2 weeks, it'll last a very long time. It's just the initial application that'll take more than one coat. If the trim is really bad it'll get absorbed into the plastic very fast and it won't...

Another way to reduce the static is to let the towels air dry and not use a dryer at all. If you don't like that, put them in the drier for 10 - 15 mins and then let them air dry. The static cling should be greatly reduced compared to drying them on a full cycle.