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1. I would say wiping the coating away too early, before polymerization occurs, is more detrimental than wiping too much to level high spots. Of course if you really grind the towel over the surface you could technically begin to abrade away the freshly installed coating because it will still be...

I just blast it clean with steam. Works really well. Also, you can wrap a credit card with a microfiber towel and run it along in-between the panel edges to clean out all the junk.

Steam.

Think of this on a really trashed vehicle. Wash with this and a nanoscrub mitt and hit it with hydro2 or the new Meg's aerosol "wax" and you've just washed, decon, "polished," and protected the vehicle in not much longer than a standard wash.

Have you performed a test spot with the pads and product you already have? The newer GM paint is relatively easy to work with IME.

To compound, polish, and seal 30 trucks sounds like 30 days worth of work. How will they be maintained? If they will just be driven through the car wash or washed with some sort of brush on a pole they will be swirled out in no time. If the goal is to keep them shiny and protected to project a...

Thanks for putting together this review! Ultimate Fast Finish was one of the more interesting products to launch at SEMA this year and I'm happy to see that people are having positive experiences with it. I'll definitely have to grab a can and play around with it a bit.

If you don't measure the paint, and if you aren't 99.9% positive you know the full history of the paint, then there is no way to know for sure how risky polishing a vehicle will be. Any machine, under the right set of circumstances, can burn though the paint.

Sounds like it has been repainted at some point. Factory paint might have some specs of dirt in the finish here or there but usually nothing near as bad as you are describing.

The most aggressive combo I'd typically use on a modern Audi is something like M100 or M101 with a Meg's microfiber cutting pad. Fully prime each pad, clean the pads frequently and you'll be able to level some serious defects on that hard Audi OEM paintwork and still finish out really nice. It's...

I usually use dry towels for glass as well. I'm going to try this!

I've been using Reload for the last couple of years with mostly great results. When CarPro had all the "bad batch" issues I struggled through the rest of the streaky batch and pretty much just stopped using it on black cars. I didn't re-order for probably 6 months until I started hearing that...

Reload works great on basically any surface on your vehicle's exterior. Paint, glass, trim, wheels, chrome, headlights, you name it. Probably the only thing it wouldn't work well on is tires or fabric convertible tops. I absolutely love it on glass.

Brown Royal or Aluminum Brightener, either should work. Just opposite extremes on the pH scale.

Using a tornador blow out gun works really well and helps contain the dust to a significantly smaller area because most of it ends up stuck inside the cone.

1996 Ford Econoline @ 170k literally always dirty. Too busy to wash it. 2005 Kia Spectra @ 103k fully corrected, coated and door dings everywhere. 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan @ 160k corrected, coated all around and 7 layers of CQFinest on the hood (because: gloss).

I don't really care for the look of shiny tires. Hyper Dressing @ 3:1 makes tires look like new without being annoyingly glossy.

This is my favorite part about the product... it actually dwells on the surface wherever you apply it, even on vertical panels. This is fantastic when claying because you can spray down an entire panel and then just clay the whole thing rather than spray, spray, spray every few seconds to keep...

Basically all of the modern Meguiar's compounds and polishes are SMAT (super micro abrasive technology) including: M105, M205, D300, M100, M101, Ultimate Compound, and Ultimate Polish. Each manufacturer has their own way of advertising "non diminishing" abrasive technology. Generally the label...

Sometimes this is all I do and works great if the vehicle was fully dried before any compound/polishing steps were started. Anything to avoid unnecessary steps is the way to go.