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I use the Ridgid 14 gallon 6hp vac. I haven't used the 303 for cleaning trim, but I do use it for wheel wells and engine bays. It's nice that it can be diluted quite a bit and still remain effective.

303 cleaner has worked well for me. I usually dilute about 30:1 for general cleaning. I think a good example of its power is from an i30 I detailed a while back. Initially I started with a 30:1 ratio on the mats, but then gave a few sprays full strength on top of that since they were so dirty...

I still use the phone book yellow pages. I just prefer it over the internet for some reason. The same way I still enjoy reading a newspaper more than reading news online.

I don't have a set time when I recharge. When I notice a drop off in the amount of foaming from the foam gun I'll recharge. And it's noticable here as the water is very hard. It really depends how frequently I wash, but I'd guess every 6 - 8 weeks I'll recharge the cannister.

First off, great work! The car looks really good. Unfortunately, the PC (and UDM I suppose, although I've never used one) take a long time to correct a badly swirlled car. It is for that reason that I switched to the rotary...I was tired of being so tired after a detail. If you plan on...

Unless you're really going at an edge aggressively with the PC everything should be fine without taping. Just take care around those areas as the paint is usually thinner.

The ONR won't strip the wax.

Yes. AIO by hand will work fine.

Domestic or foreign, Menzerna polishes work great. I've never tried Pinnacle's polishes.

I love the look of 4* UPP. Also, it's super-easy to apply and remove. As for durability I haven't really tested it. Prime/AJT combo is similar to SG in but IMO easier to work with and has a warmer look.

Great looking car, Gary. I like that style of Viper more than the current one.

I rarely use glazes. But occasionally I'll use RMG on my own car. Most glazes are meant to be used underneath a nuba. Although I believe ## sells one that can be used underneath a sealant. A glaze will give a bit more wetness to the shine and conceal some minor swirlling, but once it's gone of...

Nice camera and pics. Have fun with the new Nikon! Whenever I see a thread like this it makes me want a DSLR. I just don't know if I'd utilize one enough to justify the cost.

This wasn't a full detail...thankfully. I really didn't feel like making two passes of polishing on this monster. I gave the owner the option of a full detail or a lighter detail. He chose the lighter. The truck appeared to see a lot of hard use, so it was probably appropriate. Didn't take...

I work menz polishes until they basically disappear into the paint...sort of turn into a light film.

Looks like you hit the nail on the head. :rolleyes:

I've been researching past and current oil production for the past 6 months. The longer this goes on the more I think we're at or near global peak oil production. Demand is simply beginning to outstrip supply. It's not a matter of running out of oil. There's plenty of it still in the ground...

Yes, PG would be a good replacement for SSR3. I have both and prefer the PG. For me at least I find it cuts very well,is easier to work with and finishes down better than SSR3. I don't use Meg's much. I like 83 for the PC, but not for the rotary. Perhaps it was my technique but I found it very...

Thanks everyone. The PG works great. There is some dust but the performance of the polish outweighs an negative feelings about dusting. I wouldn't say it gums up the foam wool, but it will build up. I keep a brush handy and brush it out after a few panels. Thanks, Toto. It was hard to capture...

For a pretty strong compound PG finishes down nicely. On darker colors I notice more hazing/holograms than on this silver. But regardless, I always follow PG with a finer polish. And yes about CMW, Supercharged. :)