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Some do, some don't. Most of the twin turbo versions don't because they get very hot. I have a 2011 and it does not have the insulation. @ OP, nice work, let me guess that metallic blue was very hard.

Since what you are cleaning is no longer glass but plastic, Plexus is very nice and creates an antistatic barrier against dust. But it's rather expensive. You can clean tint with any glass cleaner w/o ammonia in it and it will be totally fine. Stoners Invisible glass spray can is my fav.

Wash procedure is the same, no matter the car. I'm like a robot, I have my routine, it works, so I stick to it. The piece of metal in the driveway is irrelevant.

+1 I used to use Micro-Restore. Ran out just used All Clear from Costco on sale, couldn't tell a difference other than my wallet wasn't as light.

:doh: isopropyl alcohol - aka rubbing alcohol you buy at CVS. Put the rotary away.

If you are a newbie, I'd consider KISS - "Keep It Simple Stupid". 1. Megs Quick Interior detailer 2. Lexol 3:1 3. Invisible Glass or else you end up with your 6 leather cleaners and a garage looking like this...

Congrats. Interesting to see what a pro uses on his own car. You love those Hondas.

It has nothing to do with rich or poor. Some people (actually most) just see cars as expensive toys/appliances. That is why people wash them with brillo pads if at all. We are Superman and they are Bizzaro.

You know I was going to mention this but I didn't want to go into the whole BMW specific conversation, but now that you mention this it's rather important. Taking your car to a BMW dealer doesn't mean it's gonna get fixed to factory certified specs. For that you need to go to a shop as you...

Many factors can contribute to it. 1. Too much product 2. Uneven application 3. Hot Panel, too hot outside 4. Some paints don't like it, shows up more on darker colors. The best way I have found to apply it is to spray it on the long nap of a MF towel first. Apply with light pressure evenly...

you know most of it just looks like paint transfer, maybe it can be buffed out to minimize the amount of repainting that needs to be done. I'd keep the car, nothing mechanical or structural needs to be done.

I found it to be more of a conditioner than a cleaner. It goes on nice and even and finishes well and looks very nice. The thing I don't like about it is that it creates a slick finish. I know this is done to prevent abrasion which can wear leather down. However, I find myself sliding around...

Same place they sell Turtle Wax & Nu Finish, Advanced Auto Parts. Compared to the stuff that AG sells, this stuff is like beef jerky at a steak house.

Me too, I have an arsenal of leather products right now. If I had to choose one and ONLY one to use on well maintained leather it would have to be Pristine Clean.

Did you see Corey's take on this? Review: Meguiars Ultimate Quik Wax Product Reviews

Yeah just last week. The metal wire just snapped, right above the handle. I really like the brush but it didn't last me as long as I'd hoped.

Form AG product page... You know it's probably fine, but that's not it's intended use, and no one knows of the long term affects, so in my mind, it's not worth experimenting on a car.

Cosmoline. They spray this stuff on new cars to prevent rust for those trips across the ocean. For some reason I've seen it mostly on BMW's, but not on other cars. Are other cars shipped across different oceans?

Read here, this will explain it much better than I can... Leather Upholstery Type Surface Identification The answer to your questions is yes. Products with specific uses are better than AIO, AIO are always a compromise in return for ease of use. Jack of all trades master of none.

Depends... If the leather is in a sorry state or has been neglected it's worth using a dedicated cleaner first, then a conditioner. If you are on top of it and all your car needs is routine maintenance on already well maintained car a AIO leather cleaner and conditioner is more than adequate.