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Wheel brightener if you're okay with using acid. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/86352-power-wheel-brightener.html

Spy Tec G1WH

I know what you are talking about, but other than running a vacuum over it to remove the loose stuff, I would just leave it alone.

I would love to test it. Being in college I can't do a 2BM so rinseless is what I like. I have used ONR, but really like Adam's.

I have never used Goof Off. With Krud Kutter I just sprayed it on, let it sit a few minutes and then wiped with a microfiber.

Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover. It used to be called Road Paint and Graffiti remover so I don't know if the formula changed or not and I'm, not sure how safe it would be on the Element's plastic.

Well, no one bought it and it was just traded into the dealer who gave us $2,000 more than any private offer + you get a trade in tax credit in NJ. Replaced it with a 2016 Q5 3.0t.

When applying it, you need to do 1 or 2 quick swipes and that's it. If you continue to wipe to attempt to level it, you will only cause streaks because of how fast it dries.

I would try an iron remover like Iron X paste. I work at a BMW dealer and every service car gets washed. Wheel brightener barely makes an impact on wheels with years of brake dust.

Permanon Platinum lasts an entire winter. Adam's H2O Guard and Gloss is also super easy. Wash your car, rinse your car, spray it on, then dry your car and you're good for 3 months in my experience.

I'll be doing it eventually.

Went to buy it because of the free shipping today, but it's out of stock :(

I've only used Poxy and it was a very thick consistency.

Some sealants can withstand high heats. Adam's Quick Sealant comes to mind which can be used on wheels, calipers, exhaust tips, etc.

Personally, I will put just about anything on my car coated car. These coatings advertise that they are resistant to pretty much anything yet everyone seems scared to actually put stuff on them. While not the worst thing in the world, I've sprayed the whole car down with APC as a presoak...

Just APC was enough to remove tar on my coated car. Have you tried other methods first?

So do a lot of other products. What makes this better/ different?

Ok, the one I use is low odor, pH neutral, made in the USA, can be used on all exterior surfaces, works quick enough, and is extremely cost effective. I guess my point is that there are so many of these products, they are starting to become like car shampoos where there are so many that only a...

Probably. I still haven't really gotten an answer on why the 3D product is better other than it is cheaper than Iron X, yet more expensive than what I currently which is just above $0.21 an ounce when diluted for paint use and is just as effective as Iron X. Is BDX more effective than Iron X?

Better than Iron X? The same as Iron X? What's the consistency like? Does it foam at all? Just trying to figure out what makes this different if at all besides the smell.