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Ingot Silver is probably your best bet for low maintenance followed by Sterling Gray. Personally, I really like Deep Impact Blue but it will involve more upkeep to keep it looking good than the silver or gray. Avoid black like the plague, as others have noted it is a second job.

He's not being "angry and defensive," he's just telling you the situation. Active links to other vendors or to other forums are not smiled upon here. Personally, I could care less but this isn't my forum nor is it Setec's.

Personally, I'm not a huge fan of layering, especially with diverse products, but I don't see anything in Dr G's comments that would suggest that you can't layer polyethylene-acrylics. Conventional waxes don't chemically bond to the substrate under any circumstances so the cross-linking issue...

Per ski2 and EVOlved you'd do well to get a 5" backing plate and use 5.5" pads. Like EVOlved the green B&S pad is probably my most used for correction although harder paints and serious flaws call for other measures. I use the black or red B&S pads for applying waxes. Black for a finishing...

Both Wolf's Chemicals (The Mask) and Griot's Garage (Bug Barricade) make temporary spray-on coatings for road trips. I've never used either one but they might worth a look. Supposedly they both simply wash off without harming the underlying LSP. I completely agree with Swanicyouth's comment...

IMO you really can't go wrong with either of those. The color and scent are different but IME they behave very similarly in the bucket and on the car. I suspect that 901 may have more glossing agents but that is little more than a guess.

I don't want to sound glib here but I think the information you'd like to have simply doesn't exist. PiPUK can probably give you a theoretically correct answer for a specific sealant if he knows the formula and manufacturing process. Real world experimentation, however, would be very expensive...

What GTechniq product do you have? I've been using C2v3 a bit lately and it doesn't seem to be extremely fussy about the base although the jury is still out on longevity. C1 or EXOv2 are another matter. I tend to be somewhat a believer in the theory that you are safer if you stick within...

My best guess is that the definitive answer is that there is no definitive answer. In the case of sealants, if I'm concerned about maximizing longevity, I usually tend to follow the "it can't hurt and it might help" line of thinking and try to provide a clean surface. In my case that usually...

I would probably give the nod to Duragloss in your situation. I think it is probably going to be the most cost effective among the shampoos I've tried and liked. I'm also a fan of Lusso, Optimum, Prima Hydro and Dodo Juice Born to Be Mild. Meguiar's Gold Class is decent but nothing special...

Too many variables in play here for a single universal answer but as other people have noted high heat can dramatically shorten shelf life. You also want to avoid freezing, UV & short wavelength visible light if in clear containers and oxygen and water vapor as much as possible (keep those...

:iagree: Depending on the paint I think SONAX Perfect Finish, Optimum Polish II, or Scholl Concepts S17+ might also be viable options. For softer paints you might get by with something with even less cut. I primarily work in Japanese cars and the BnS green tends to be a common pad choice...

D151 has the most cut of any AIO I've used but I've only worked off a couple sample/gift bottles and I decided it was not a useful purchase for my amateur applications. I own GPS but again I don't use it much. It has more cut than most AIOs but significantly less than D151. I found it more...

SONAX Full Effect Wheel Cleaner is excellent. I just received SONAX Wheel Cleaner Plus and haven't used it yet but the the early reports suggest that it is an improvement. I can report that the Scholl Concepts Rim 7 (probably my favorite), 1Z ColourTec and Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner are all...

Megs #7 is an oily, old school, glaze. If you're going to apply it before polishing I suggest reapplying after the correction as you'll remove most, if not all, of it in the correction process. It works great under high carnauba content waxes like Auto Finesse Illusion for that deep, wet look...

Prima Banana Gloss is great for when you're pressed for time or when you're dealing with moderately imperfect paint. To elaborate on what Pats300zx posted above it is very quick and forgiving in application, nearly impossible to screw up. It fills a bit, almost as much as some products sold as...

I would double check with Optimum Polymer Technologies but the last I heard they were recommending Optimum Poli-Seal applied with a gray or back foam pad (finishing pad, no cut). Poli-Seal is mildly abrasive but also seems to function as good chemical paint cleaner. I've seen impressive photos...

As PapaChop noted there is no way, short of a budget of several $100K and a few years for research, to answer this. All we have is isolated anecdotal evidence with a huge number of uncontrolled variables. Also, what applies in Tucson may not be true cold or extremely wet climates and vice...

I agree with Setec. A decent sealant is going to take some work to remove, especially if it was relatively freshly applied, a simple IPA wipe won't get it done. IPA might remove 303 but why take a chance? There is no need to apply anything if we're only talking a wait of a week or two or three.

If you want a wax you really can't go wrong with any of the Collinites. 476 is probably the most durable but 915 and 845 are both extremely durable too, way beyond the average for waxes. 845 is, IMO, the easiest to apply: warm it a little, shake it vigorously and then apply via a DA. 915 is...