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I have a problem with limescale build up after hundreds of washes with very hard water...White limescale build up around mouldings etc what do you reckon is the best solution to this problem ? Many suggestion come to HF diluted 1:1 but I'd really like a second opinion before using such a...

Hi lasthope i have the same issue you have with optimum polish II new formula... Sometimes it's really tough to remove even if i wipe right after polishing a section.. Opc and ipa at 1:3 doesnt remove them at all...Dialing in the right amount of polish seems to be the only way to not have the...

KC , you're using speed 1 and 2 with the makita that's only 600 and 900 rpm correct ? If that's the case I'm amazed...Obviously with smaller 5,5 and 6,5 pads you will need more rpms ? correct ? You're using 8" pads...8" spins really fast...

Funny you asked , a malaysian detailer thought about it and gave it a try....you could finish with optimum compound but don't expect perfect result... Google for "one product finish - optimum hyper compound" This post made me buy the new optimum compound II :dblthumb2:

Wow....impressive collection right there mate... Is that a BOSCH rotary ???

I like IHG a lot... buffing can be a ##### but the result is a balance between traditional and modern glaze..deep and not too blingy Ultrafina is a great finishing product...Swirl free on any paint..If you're using rotary and that hologram doesn't go away use Ultrafina.. 3M pads are the...

:iagree: As a caveat beware of regular posters who never post again... If you've been on detailing forums since 2005 you may remember dftowel... A regular poster till his last post 2006 but went on scamming people till 2009...His website is still up... But I don't know if things have changed...

You can't avoid it all you can do is to minimize it... The moment you wipe you paint you are abrading it.. Whether it will become swirls or not will depend on what kind of cloth you use (MF,cotton,rags),how much pressure you put into it and if there's something on your cloth or...

So now that we conclude Grit Guard Pad washer is the best tool to clean pads.. The pad in above condition is it usable ? At what point will you decide it's unusable ?

Good share... I learnt the hard way about not to getting too much fixation on one aspect of detailing after my first purchase .. A mix of products i need and didn't need....I was too fixated with paint and negelected the interiors,wheels, trims, grills/emblems, sills...

I think megs adams pinnacle and many if not most detailing brands are made in the US ? cmiiw

CR spotless is cool but the resin upkeep isnt if you buy replacements from CR.. Be careful not to get carried away.. IME your wash will dry absolutely streak and spot free while your tds is below 10.. At 15 to 20 i get waterspotting on windows.. I get waterspotting on paint too but my eyes can...

I would like to know what to use on that white stain as well.. Many friends suggested to go with HF (hydro floric?) it's an acid so if i may get a second opinion would be great thanks before

If you simply want more cutting power i would just stay with the xp and get surbuf pad or megs da mf system.. The extra power is nice but it's a da to da (non flex) exchange imo the excitement isnt going to last long... The xp is reliable not to mention it's made in the US (cmiiw) a rarity...

hi fox can you lecture me on 'paint swelling' ?

:iagree: I hope this thread doesnt turn into a justification for 'if you want my best effort tip me...else you'll get what you pay for' Im just an admin guy who earns 20 bucks an hour and of course nobody tips the admin guy.. I feel heavy about tipping someone who charges 50 dollars or maybe...

Hi jeffry if i am you i will keep the xp and get a rotary buffer.. Sorry for not answering your question but i'm not sure da to da upgrade is going to be a significant upgrade.. In terms of bogging down the 850w unit bogs down too.. I assume you are proficient enough with a DA and machine...

my understanding is by hand you need as much pressure as you can press to level the paint surface.. I stand corrected on the 15 lbs pressure..i guess i overestimated 5 lbs is the most i could press on vertical panels and 10 on horizontals...15 lbs would require you to press from the shoulders...

15 lbs is not that much even by hand.. If it's safe with DA orbitting thousands times per minute.. Why is it not safe with a hand that orbits at most 120 times per min ?? :idea:

You need to apply 15 lbs of pressure... measure with a scale and see for yourself how a 15-20 lbs pressure is like I am willing to bet that you didnt work the product hard enough that the color of the haze is almost as thick as when you started..since you didnt work it hard enough the product...