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I let mine sit sometimes 24 hours sitting in my sink with the backing plate on top. After cleaned and rinsed let air dry again with the backing plate on top. Never had a pad backing plate come off. Some pads have been cleaned 6 to 8 times (just hobbie detailer on my own car) but still look...

I almost did the same thing with my GG3. Then I tried the ThinPro 3" pads and they transformed the ugly duckling into a swan. It is my go to polisher for plastic (bumper covers, B-Pillars etc.) It also is my polisher of choice for applying wax with ThinPro red pad (nice light polisher and so...

Most people learn by trial and error. So try one ONR and them try a second application. Do a test spot, you will have your answer.

My 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix has an aluminum hood (who knew). It's been polished and coated to death the last 5-6 years. No difference to steal at all.

Heh fightnews, Have you used the duster ever?

What does the product maker say to use? They know their product best (they may revommend their own brand but they will name the product).

Had same experience last year. Doing road work for 9 months ouside my work and dust every working day (and I mean thick). I think the car cover will grind the dirt into the paint if any dirt penetrates the cover. The cover itself could grid on the paint (rubbing from wind). However the dirt...

Water spots are usually dirt unless they are pure white. My DD sits outside a wood working factory daily, so dirt every day. The car is actualyy "over coated" so nothing is getting to the paint. It rains, it beads, it leaves dirt spots (small circles of brown where the beading was). I use...

How do you get the taper?

I use Poli-Seal (AIO). I use a green pad on DA and it works very well. Have used on single stage and basecoat/clearcoat. Great results and minimal effort. It is not "show room" but dosen't take 18 hours.

Ok I just applied to my winter tires. Cleaned with APC and used foam applicater. Easy on and looked great. Let dry 24 hrs and wrapped in shrink wrap to seal up for summer. Have a spare tire I coated 1 year ago sitting in my garage gathering dust and when pressed into service looks great.

I use the Gtechniq C4 wheel armour. Seems to last longest, but I SiO product regularley to maintain. The C4 goes on nice and really shines so happy with that. If I was doing shop detailing the SiO products would be the way to go.

Iron X is iron cleaner, nothing else. Sonix does a better job of cleaning. I do both, remove iron particles then clean. Wheels are well maintained so usually just wash with soapy water.

What I found was the blue pads desinigrate when the edge gets against the edges on the wheels. I do mostly wheels on my DD and so far on 8 wheels have destroyed 4 pads. That said the taper that the Rupes pads have is the key to not making contact with the backing plate. Punching out pads will...

My wheels are only powdercoated. Basecoat and clear. The fine polish turned black just like metal polishing bare metal. Shine was really good, but the powdercoating was poorly done so lots of orange peel and defects remain.

Agree. Total thickness doesn't tell how much clearcoat there is (usually 1/3 primer, basecoat and clear). Polishing with fine polish and green/white/red pads on a DA doesn't remove alot of paint, if any. The fine polishes I use are Menzerna 3800, Meg's Mirror Glaze and Optimum Polish II.

I think the side panels are dirty. I would do a baggy test and clay if nessasary. After claying I would rinsless wash and check results. If still not beading then fine polish on green pad will likely restore full shine and not remove too much coating. On my own car I just wax because I like...

Yes it does nothing. Fine polish for paint seems to be best. Maybe metal polish might work too. I'm not going any further on tresting.

Me too. No good results and lots of effort for marginal results. Cheaper and quicker to replace on front windsheild (only $200.00). Actually looks worse after as ypu see all the RID's.

Me neither to your post.