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From your pic the underlying color looks light gray or green, that would be the primer or sealer. I would just get some touch up paint and put on it.

Kinda looks like it has a PPF on it that got stained by the mobile guys no name foam wash.

Well i thought i had sprayed every kind of paint made, but i actually have no experience with that one. Is this a paint you sprayed before, are you sure they gave you the correct hardner/activater. Two weeks dry time should be plenty of time, but the paint issue you are having look like not...

What kind of clearcoat and hardner/activater did you use, what was your mix ratio 4-2-1.

I have never used the technique in that video, it could work if the resin isn't bonded very well. Thats not the technique I've used, and I'm afraid me trying to explain how to do it would be confusing at best.

This may be a long shot, but have you ever cut a run out of clear coat with a razor blade. If not i understand, it's process used by painters to quickly knock down the bulk of a run before sanding and buffing. My guess is it wil need cut down sanded then polished. If that's not something you...

A tool used in window tinting that work great for behind brake lights is called The Scrubber GT209, that might be what you are looking for.

Joe dirt said it would buff out LOL, I've fixed plenty of dents like that, it would require a stud welder, body filler, high build primer, and the paint would need to be blended So you would actually need to blend the door, and the bumper cover. Not saying you cant do it at home, but...

Re: 1965 Cadillac - Original Single Stage Paint - Slam job by Mike Phillips My back hurts just thinking about correcting that hood. Good luck, and looking forward to your write up.

The steamers we use are a pacific steam PSE-2 and Jiffy steamer J-4000 I use the PSE-2 on covers before i put them on the frame and the Jiffy steamer if the cover is already on the frame

Steamer, 75 percent of the seat covers i put on have been vacuum packed and take a boat ride from asia they are full of lines and dents, i just hit them with the steamer and they look perfect.

I would call you crazy if you did it any other way than the exact way you want to do it. Cars can bring back memories, i would love to have a stock 66 chevelle, its just not in the budget. I wouldn't care if people called a papaw ride if its how you want it. Its hard to find a car in that...

Well i would have just said throw a turbo on it but the old 302 is known to split the block under boost, and who can afford a coyote motor lol. I'm not sure about the paint, other than i would be single stage.

Friends don't let friends drive stock, how about a turbo LS under that hood.

Great review Mike I gotta try this when its released, I hope they sell 16 oz bottles.

Looking forward to your review.

Unfortunately the only way i know of to fix it would be a redo. My rule of thumb would be extend your clear 12 to 15 inches beyond your color.

When you say i painted my door and bumper, is this your first time doing a blend. Your problem could be process related Anytime im blending a panel i will stop my color about 12 to 15 inches short of my clear blend point That will give me plenty of room to smooth in the clear when buffing...

I have some yellow tint shooting glasses i use when i am on the range, i have never thought about using them to help spot defects in paint. I will give it a shot and let you know.

The paint is the same.