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That looks like typical hazing from either an aggressive product, pad or not breaking down the polish completely. A finishing polish with a polishing pad should clear it up. Try working the polish in smaller area - no more then 2x2 area - To make sure you are breaking down the polish...

Menzerna line works great with a DA...Their polishes have good working time and finish down great. IMO they have the best finishing polishes available (especially for dark colors).

I agree, it is one of the best kits/system I've used to clean headlights. It works just as good with a rotary or a drill...here is a review I did on it a few weeks ago: Diamondite Plastic Kit

Here is a shot I did of the moon with my D70 and 300mm lens - hand held Settings: Shutter - 1/500 Aperture - F10 Cropped

I've only used PB but for me it works great at protecting my uncoated wheels. I've been using PB for over a year and a half on my polished wheels and get at least 2-3 months with 3 initial coats.

I've tried many different products for cleaning headlights - metal polish, paint polish, plastic polish, etc.and all work great at restoring headlights. This weekend I tried the Diamondite's Clear Plastic Kit for headlights....I have to say, this kit is probably the most effective product I've...

IIRC, Steve came out with 2.5 after 1, 2 & 3 because there was a bit of a jump from 2-3 in abrassiveness.

I've used clay on many chrome wheels and other chrome pieces with no problem...just remember to use plenty of clay lube. Just to be on the safe side, though I'd try in an inconspicuous spot first.

:iagree::iagree: I'd do this first before using any abrasive products. This will remove any mineral deposits and will expose the water spots that are etched into the paint. Then move to an abrasive polish as needed.

I put my son to work when he was six....Who says a PC is hard to use:D

Yeah here is a few more. It's a beautiful car...not mine though:(

Here are few of my favs:

Thanks! I actually found this out when I first started using the original Menzerna FP. People hated it because it gummed up and was a PITA to remove. I'd have the same problem, but only occasionally, so I did some experimenting and found out that the only time it would gum up on me was when...

Thanks Guys! It's more aggressive then XMT3...like Sevenrd said it's similar to XMT4. I've been able to get out some heavy swirls, scratches and oxidation with SSR3. If you want to see it in action, I have a video on my website using SSR3 with a cutting pad to remove some heavy oxidation.

Nick19 pretty much covered it, but to show proof here are some before and after pics: Here is some bad water spots on a BMW - used PC, XMT#3/LC orange pad: Before: After: Side by side after PC, SSR3 & PO85RD:

On the computer. If you are running XP here is an easy program for resizing: Microsoft PowerToys for Windows XP Scroll down and download imageresizer.exe. Once install all you need to do is right click on the image and have it resize the image for you.

Yes you have to change the pixel size...changing it to a 4x6 only changes the print size, but keeps the pixel size the same. Everyone pretty much runs a resolution of 1024x768 anymore so a good max. width size would be 800 or 700 - here is an example of 800x534...it's big enough to fit...

Since mine are uncoated polished wheels, I always use the 2 bucket method to help prevent any marring.

I was thinking about upgrading to the D80 but there is not enough improvements between it and the D70 to justify the cost. If or when I do upgrade it will be to the D200. I've had the D70 for over 2 years and the only complaint I have is noise with higher ISO settings, but it's easily fixed...

Cool shot Grimm:applause: Here is what I use::Picture: