Search results

You can't really go wrong with a Honda or Toyota. They're pretty much bulletproof as long as you maintain them at regular intervals. The Rav4 can get a lot pricier than the crv once the options start adding up so that's something you should look out for.

You can also use a quick detail spray afterwards to hopefully get the spots off but that will depend on how long the spots have had time to try and etch into the paint

Without a mitt to agitate? If it was a light dust thats one thing but what about caked on dust or a car that just got rained on?

I agree. I use a foam cannon so that there's more lubrication on the paint before I put my mitt on it rather than just water alone. Some say that foaming the car lifts the dirt off the surface but I don't really buy into that. Both are good options and only depend on what equipment you have/want...

Thanks for the answer Chris. Does OCW need to be shaken before use?

Got my order in today which included a gallon of OCW. Since it came in a clear bottle I noticed that there were small chunks floating around in it and shaking the bottle didnt get rid of them. Is this normal for OCW? The product was pretty cold when I got it probably around 50 degrees since it...

Is there a noticeable difference between the 530s and 600s?

Maintain it with a rinseless or waterless wash as often as you can.

Can you guys recommend me a low maintenance wash mitt that that still works extremely well?

I see. I guess it was the way I was washing and drying it. The fibers are very matted up and stuck together but they loosen up quite a bit when I soak it in my wash bucket. Ive only used this wash mitt maybe 5 times at most but I think ill have to retire it from paint work.

Thats what they all say!

You could try m105 and m205 if you want to step up in compounds and polishes. If youre correcting the paint and do a good job, there shouldn't be a need for a glaze in my opinion. I also am not too fond of gold class carnauba wax. It leaves nasty stains on trim if you happen to get it on there...

I have a mothers lambswool wash mitt that has given me a few concerns when I use it. Using megs gold class soap at 1oz a gallon, the mitt doesn't glide across the paint like I would expect it to. It drags and makes sort of an abrasive sound which I know is the mitt itself because I tested this...

Perl is pretty hard to remove as I found out as well. I was wearing glasses while applying Perl at 1:1 for my tires and while spraying it onto my applicator, a gust of wind swept by and I got overspray onto my face and glasses. Went to go wipe my glasses later with an alcohol wipe and its still...

Couple questions: -Could you post a picture of the trunk? -Did you use a rotary or a da to apply the cleansing lotion? -Have you tried buffing the spot with more quick detailer to make sure it wasnt leftover wax residue?

So besides durability, is there anything a spray wax cant offer that a wax, sealant, or spray sealant can? Looks aside as well

I thought aqua wax would be consider a wax booster and can't really take the place of a dedicated wax? OCW seems to be in another world compared to the other spray waxes however

Im not a big fan of applying WOWO waxes that need to haze and things like that. Do you guys think I can get away with using Optimum Car Wax once a week after my maintenance wash to prevent me from ever using a dedicated wax again? Or should I look into other options like Blackfire Crystal Seal...

Caked on dirt just flies off and dirt in hard to reach cracks easily blow right out. It saves time but I dont think it does anything a regular hose couldnt.I use mine to rinse the car and for a foam cannon.

All of those are great products! Is there anything specific youre trying to achieve?