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I was thinking about what I would do if I had my heart set on getting rid of the holes and I didn't have the ability to clear the bumper myself. If you do all of the prep work on the bumper and the post sanding and buffing you should be able to find someone who will shoot the clear at a...

I just bought some UPGP a few weeks ago and it says for paint, chrome and glass" on the bottle. Does that mean it's the new formula? Either way I love this stuff for a quick shine and on glass it works a lot like RainX.

You have to buy the changeable backing plate system to use them though, right?

Hey, Evob, are you getting anymore successful at getting rid of your scratches? I've had mixed success with a PC DA, and sometimes it doesn't seem to cut much at all. The smaller pads helped, but it still takes an awfully long time to polish an entire vehicle. I usually just go back to using a...

The Uber compound is made by Menzerna and is a DAT, correct? How is that technology different form Meguiar's DAT polishes?

I like to use M85 to buff out my sanding marks on a new paint job. It's a DAT and once you get the hang of it you can end up with a finish that's swirl free and hardly needs anything finer as a follow up. I've used both wool and foam pads with great results using either. M83 is a bit finer and...

The problem with adding clear coat is that it can't be blended, and you will always see the edge where the new clear coat ends. PPG and others make a blending agent you can add to your clear that minimizes this edge, but if you look closely enough you will still see it. If you're working on...

Thank you for all your advice. I now understand better the correct way to apply this stuff, and my results are getting a lot better. I was treating it like wax where you buff off the dried residue which is not how this stuff works.

Thanks Setec. That makes perfect sense.

Are all of you buffing DLUX 5 minutes or so after application?

I used DLUX on textured trim for the first time this weekend. At first I was applying it and then buffing 10 minutes later. I found that in some areas the coating was still tacky and I was afraid I would remove all of it. later I tried applying it very thin and didn't buff it all. This morning...

Thank you for your help. After doing a bit my research, I think the biggest cause for the heat was the compound. Meguiars 82 is NOT recommended for DA polishers. I normally use it as a final polish on a new paint job using a rotary buffer.

What was the reason for using the Flex for the heavy compounding and the Rupes for the final polish?

Beautiful job! I love threads like this. It shows me what to aspire to.

Why DLUX on the wheels and not CQUK?

I have 205, and next time I will try that instead. This was on a new car that needed very little correction, and that's why I was using a really mild polish. It will be awhile before I need to do anything other that wax this vehicle again.

Thank you for the tips. This is a LC 5.5" low profile pad. The heat was coming from the BP side. The BP is an AG 5.5". Meguiars 82 should be similar in cut to 205. I think it's a DAT rather than a SMAT, but I'm not certain of that.

I was using a PC buffer on speed 6 and Meguiars 82 polish. I burned up two of these on one car. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=29082&stc=1&d=1405690207

Thank you fro the reply. You are correct the iron particles embed themselves, "stick" was the wrong word. I'll give IronX a try.

I work for a company with a large cast iron foundry. The fallout settles on vehicles and sticks leaving a sandy texture to the paint. Clay barring removes the little particles, but the little pits remain and can be seen if you look close. Do any of the coatings protect against this? I just...