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the edge pad system and lc ccs pads are what a lot of the testers have been using...

yup...when i had a tester bottle of UQD i put my hoze nozzle on super mist mode and sprayed a test panel of my car for thirty minutes (dont worry i collected all the water in a drip pan and watered my plants with it :) )....and by the end of the test the uqd was completely diminished.....the...

megs UQD is amazing when fresh...but has low durability both time and exposure wise...rain will eventually win the battle and begin washing it off....also remeber that UQD does have mild cleaners on it so it does begin to degrade your lsp...AW adds to whatever is already on the paint...

the dye bleeding is pretty normal in most colored mf towel/mitts/etc...and most dyed pads leech a little of their color as well..nothing but cosmetic...doesnt hurt the function of anything...

thats why i buy like 50 extra tops...they are only like 15 cents each :)

i'm glad you liked the squeeze bottles...i definitely get a lot of compliments about them...and a lot of questions as to where i got them :) ....just so you guys know i recomend the 16oz bottle...they are the easiest to handle...whats nice about these is no funnel required to fill....

foam cannons/lances are definitely fun...if you own a pressure washer its a definite must have

most would say the shangrila of rotaries is the metabo...others like the hitachi...some like the makita...i own the hitachi and the cheapie harbor freight rotary...they both work pretty much the same...the only thing the hf doesnt do is electronically adjust the speed as it bogs down...the nice...

the circular rotation builds heat and rotates over the same point more times than the random orbit motion....think of it as rubbing versus grinding....thats why the rotary can burn paint if used improperly

most any qd will be fine...dont worry about the heat from the sun...with a rotary you are going to be gettin up there in heat anyway...and the initial heat is not directly correlated to the final heat you get from the rotary...its not like if you start with a 60 degree hood you finish at...

the rotary will work just fine with the 6.5 ccs pads...in fact a lot of people prefer it as the pads skip and hop around less and they are easier to control...the xmt line is not the best with the rotary..breaks down waaay to quick...it was really designed with the PC in mind...if you work in...

i cant wait to get mine!!! :)

some people say never to wash wool pads...just spur or brush them clean...but if you want woolite or any pad cleaner will suffice...the big thing is to make sure it dries asap...

i dont know if the M can take any more coats of LSP :awesome:

if find os streaks less when applied on top of a wax...using it as the lock in the look product has had more success for me....

you are right...the yellow foam is much softer than the orange pad...but look at the pore size compared to the white blue or gray pad and that is what does all the cutting action...the orange pad ges its aggressiveness out of pressure and being a firm pad..the yellow does it with pore size

i am guessing a misprint...the yellow is a cutting pad not finishing pad...

even though honda clear is very soft...sometimes some swirls and scratches take something like IP to remove...i would do a test spot with the old formula op first...if that gets everthing out..great...if not...step up to IP on a polishing pad...step up to a light cut pad if necessary

test out a spot with final polish...if defects still remain upgrade to ip...

thanks for the compliments...up next is repolishing my g/f s2k with menzerna...she is jealous that my car is "shinier" ...i am slowly converting another autogeek muahaha...i already have her carrying a mf towel and spray bottle of ONE for bird bomb emergencies in her car :)