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BLK, I PM'ed BobbyG. Here's what he had to say: "The clears on Corvettes are especially hard from the factory and also very thin. Make sure he didn't break through the clear. It certainly won't hurt to give the Meguiar's product you have a try.. Depending on the damage he did you might...

Not surprising. It's a commercial system for wash water not potable water. Feds and state have requirements for potable water systems.

Have to disagree. That's one of the many urban legends on the web. Google it.

Hey, then go with the SIP. I asked BobbyG to chime in on this too. And yeah, I'd follow with 106FA and then 85RD. I use the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, which is made by Menz and their "version" of 106FA. I got it BOGO so it was cheaper than going Menz line. Not sure which chart you're...

GM has some of the hardest clear out there and from what I understand they use the "hardest of the hard" on the Vettes. Personally, I'd go with the Meg's Ultimate Compound as I've had great success with that on GM's. It's cheap and it finishes nearly LSP ready using an LC flat orange pad...

Umm, are you sure you got the 6.5" pads? Reason I'm asking is that it is rather well known on the forums that the PC XP doesn't do well with 6.5" pads. You would be well served to call and have them replaced with 5.5" pads. I have one 6.5" pad that I got free with some sealant. It's BARELY...

Yes, 2 clicks does make that much of a difference. It makes a HUGE difference. Check the Menz chart here: Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, Menzerna FMJ, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, menzerna. If you got S34A, that's their heaviest...

Toyota paint is rather hard, so I would recommend a bit more aggressive polish and some polishing pads - the red pad is for waxing. If you wanna save a few bucks, I can recommend Meguiar's Ulitmate Compound and Ultimate Polish. You can often find them on sale at Wally World or the auto stores...

Yes. Reverse osmosis removes dissolved minerals, so you will get a spot-free rinse. Just make sure your system does not add minerals back in for taste. Some systems do that. BTW, you can also use water from a dehumidifier if you have one. That is also functionally de-ionized water. I pour...

You might try polishing at 5 or 6. Higher speeds are typcially used with a DA for polishing, 4 is a little low. Also, keep the pad flat, slow arm movement, do 6 - 8 section passes, etc. Many users report hazing and micro-marring from polishing at too low a speed and moving the DA too rapidly...

Like Bobby G said, 845 over Power Lock is a great combo. It's what I use on my RAV4. The PL is just starting to dull after 7 months.

One of the new "super sealants": CQuartz, Opti-Coat or GTechniq.

Not familiar with the PB, but if you want something with slightly less cut that 105 and a good bit longer work time use UC.

Hi Corey, I haven't used UPP, but I probably should have mentioned UTTG. Didn't think of it because we were talking paint sealants and waxes. Anyway, UTTG is the only trim sealant I've found sof far that will hold up. I imagine that UPP will hold up just as well since their MSDS shows that...

:dblthumb2: Yeah, I probably should have caveated with that provision. To give an example, most here say they get 6 - 9 months out of 845. I get like 4. However, I live in Carlisle, PA. Carlisle is a major transport hub for the northeast, maybe THE major hub. We have a huge amount of...

How long any sealant or wax is gonna last depends upon environmental factors. Is the car outside or garaged, how often it is washed and waxed, area general air quality, industrial or construction fallout.

I tried it once on my RAV. Did one front qtr. I saw no diff. I'm not really surprised since the MSDS shows that IPA is not a solvent for any of the components. Perhaps even more interesting is the fact that several components in the polishes are the same as those in the sealants and waxes.

:iagree: Ditch the polycharger. I have no probs with 845.

TSR is not the most aggressive swirl remover. I do like it for softer clears like Lexus, but when I run into heavier scratches or harder clears like GM, I prefer Megs UC.

Given the possible issues with IPA and the exposure to solvents from mineral spirits, why not just use Optimum Power Clean or Griot's Pre-wax Cleaner or Paint Prep if you're concerned about residue?