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So you're angry that you feel cheated even though Meguiar's tried to make it right, and you come here to complain about it? Why didn't you call them again explaining the situation, instead of throwing it out and deciding to just be unhappy?

If you've been happy with ONR, there's no reason why you wouldn't continue to be happy with it, is there? But if you just want to change it up, how about using Blackfire Wet Diamond Rinseless Wash and Blackfire Midnight Sun Spray Wax?

Off topic, but wouldn't it be better to get something more practical, like a minivan or cargo van? Either would have more cargo space, and better access to cargo via the rear hatch or sliding side doors.

Okay. But how about instead presoaking the car with your rinseless/waterless wash, then pressure wash, then use more rinseless/waterless wash with your sponge, and then rinse with the spot-free rinse?

I'm confused ... why do you want to do a rinseless wash after washing the car?

My eyes! Quick, get me some sunglasses!

I use wash solution with my clay towel; either regular shampoo in a bucket, or waterless wash in a spray bottle.

Wash, rinse, Iron-X, rinse, Nanoskin, polish, wax.

Welcome to AGO. You do not need many tools to do a waterless wash; really, just a spray bottle filled with wash solution, and a lot of microfiber towels. I do not know where you are or what brands are available in your area, but I use Meguiar's Express Wash because it is very economical. I...

Using soap as lube for the Nanoskin Mitt is a good idea, but you still do not need two different soaps. Iron X will get rid of fallout that would be difficult if not impossible for clay of a clay alternative to remove. I have never used the P21S product; I'm sure it is fine. Since you would...

Welcome to AGO. I've never used Nanoskin Bubble Wash, but from reading its description, it sounds like an ordinary shampoo to me ... so it would be pointless to do both the DP Wash and the Bubble Wash. Both will get rid of non-embedded dirt; neither will do anything about fallout. You would and...

I personally wouldn't do any detailing in that kind of weather (which isn't unusual where I live either). At a minimum, I would only do it early in the morning or later in the evening when the sun is not directly heating the paint surface as much.

IMO, yes. If you use a consumer coating and apply it yourself, you should still decontaminate; iron-X and clay the vehicle. Then do a coating prep step.

What you're missing is that there are different kinds or wax. If you've never done anything but washing and the occasional clay, you would be better off using an all-in-one or cleaner wax than a straight finishing wax. An AIO will clean and polish the paint, and leave behind some protection...

As much as I love Meguiar's, I would never recommend the DA Power System to anyone. Maybe if I tried it I might feel differently, but it looks uncomfortable to use. Plus, at $35-40, you could just about buy the Harbor Freight DA.

I've tried MF cutting pads; only Rupes because that's the system I use. It worked very well, but I can't see using MF pads exclusively. Foam pads just seem so much easier to work with all around.

What does matter is what you do between the washing step and waxing. Are you going to decontaminate and polish?

Ordered a bottle to go along with the towels I just ordered from The Rag Company (FYI They are having a prime sale today also). :xyxthumbs:

There's one thing that would make my detailing life so much easier: a garage. I wish I had one!

The "wax" in wash and wax shampoos are designed as boosters, to extend the protect of real wax. I doubt it really matter if you use either type before a traditional waxing. There's a lot more to detailing that just "waxing," after all.