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There are people who think they know, but don't, in every industry. Downloaded Mike's book on my iPad yesterday, and in the sample video, he states that knowledge is the detailer's best friend. Knowledge is, quite literally, power. I can clean carpet now, as an O/O with $6k of equipment...

Extractor (good one, not a Rug Doctor) goes a long way, but there are other methods. I've seen a foaming product used, followed by a microfiber wipe, and you could also encap, let it dry and vacuum thoroughly after.

No, I was asking him what HE was doing to control residue. Given your first post on the thread, my question seems to have become irrelevant as there are deeper issues...but that was where my mind went first for the potential problem.

What kind of residue control are you using?

From what I've gathered, it's probably a relatively intense acid. I wouldn't let that get on the brakes much, if ever, for liability and safety reasons...especially if you're being paid by someone else to do their car. That's just asking for trouble. Take the few extra minutes to pull the...

I got a $50 DA Buffer from Advance about 4 years ago. Been playing with it, and it's not worth it. Don't bother with a Dremel, either. Hit a rental place and get a decent dual action polisher...don't try to use a rotary. For that matter, take it to a pro and have it done right. It's easy to...

Thanks.

Who do you guys get the most business from, so I can begin looking for contacts in my area?

Is the forum available on Tapatalk? I'd like to be able to access it easily through my iPad as I soak all this in. On another note, got the iBook version of Mike's Show Car Shine today and started on it. Looks pretty interesting so far.

I hope that boy wiped his rims off. I was twitching, watching him spray it on and get it all over them, then stand there and talk about it. My OCD makes me want to slam into a wall when I see that sort of thing...

I'm not saying one is better than the other. Just giving an example of what I was talking about.

3000 psi with a 0 degree tip will cut asphalt and concrete. 15 degree tip will eat wood pretty quickly. 25 will eat wood when you get close enough. I think you want to stick with a 40 degree or more fan tip when dealing with cars.

Aren't the sprays bad? Something about the solvent based application drying out tires, right?

Yeah, they do. The big boys in PW have these huge tanks they fill up in the morning that are installed on the truck/trailer. 500 gallons, and sometimes the big commercial guys have multiple tanks that size. They pull from the tank, instead of the spigot. Try this link: Eagle Series...

First off...am I the only one that has to forcefully interject the words "Micro-Fiber" in their internal dialogue when they read MF? Anyway...I've seen a few references to various quality MF towels, and something called a waffle weave. I read Mike's thread on the 4 categories of towels...but...

Ok, I'll tackle this one. I've got some experience with cleaning leather upholstery (not in vehicles, but in homes) and Leathermaster is a good product. Vital is the conditioner. You need to apply the cleaner first. Couple different ways to do this...general best practice is to create a dry...

Reading through this, you guys are using a lot of acronyms. What's the purpose of a non-acid wheel cleaner?

Oh, man...look, I know you guys don't know me that well yet, and vice versa...but is it REALLY necessary to be snotty about it? Look. When I tell you I'm "Blitzing" the carpet, that means that I'm pre-vacuuming, prespraying, scrubbing, and extracting, nice and slow. Blitzing means I'm going...

Thank you.

I'm trying to figure out what LSP stands for...