Search results

Before the wash, spray on a product like Poorboy's World Bug Squash, let it dwell while you wash your first section of the car. Then use a bug sponge, mine is a rectangular yellow "brick", to remove the majority of the heavy grime. After the wash, if you still have grease, road grime or other...

I'm a fan of the Jelly Blades, or California Water Blades, to remove 80% of the water. I then follow up with a waffle towel to "blot" the remaining spots. Of course the waffle weave towels need to be slightly damp to be most effective. So I'll lay the towel on the windshield as I start to blade...

I'm not sure why everyone is trying to pull you off of a two step? If you have the time and the customer wants to pay, its the way to go for longevity. AIO's won't last, so it doesn't give a lasting impression to the customer. Meguiar's #205 or D300 followed by a sealant would be in the...

With Guz's thought in mind. After you try #205, should you find its not enough cut, you can add a drop or two of #105 along with the #205 for your next trial. Depending on the ratio, 2 drops #205 w/ one drop #105, or vice versa, you'll get a nice boost in cut without the full on dust problems...

I'm not familiar with the Menzerna products, so for me I'd start with Meguiar's #205, move to D300 if needed, and maybe to #105 if they are deep swirls. It all depends on the clear coat hardness. What type of vehicle is it, and what year? Have you polished it before?

A little late I know, but from the pic it looks like Artillery Mold Spores, or Artillery Fungus. It's an interesting read if you Google them. Seems they are most predominant in mulch that you find beside your house or driveway. We start by spraying a degreaser on the effected area. Let it dwell...

Not knowing what kind of pad you were using, my first guess is that you were using too much product. It's always surprising how far a ring of product on your pad will actually go. On a dark car its much easier to see the application, on lighter cars it's typical to put more on because you can't...

Might be a good time to keep an eye on internet sites that sell used equipment, like Craigslist. I just picked up a Mytee Lite for $350 (w/crevice tool), normally would run $800-$1000. Found it on a local Facebook Yard Sale page. Even the smaller extractors like my older DurrMaid are north of...

I'm sure you've seen the scale on a bottle of #205 (I think it's on even the tiny sample bottles?). From Meguiar's scale of 1-12, #205 rates at a 4. So it's not intended to be a huge swirl remover. It's as the name suggests, a Finishing Polish. To remove heavier scratches/swirls you should try...

Did you try scrubbing with #0000 steel wool? It won't hurt the interior of the wheel.

So, even if you find out it's a repaint, your next steps are likely to be the same. Start with your least aggressive method first. Honestly, I would try a medium compound or polish on a orange pad, being careful to limit the time spent on a localized area (Don't want to generate too much heat)...

My first inclination is to say, the polisher won't hurt. Also, it's not likely to help remove the stress crack either. But, gaining more info is good. What portion of the car is it? Plastic bumper cover or metal body part?

Cards are one of the cheapest methods of advertising. They are also "a dime a dozen" as far as how many an individual collects/saves/throws away. Each card could be viewed like a grain of sand on the beach instead of the billboard that is posted along the road to the beach. IMHO

I'm with ekennett, if it's a garage queen don't ruin the look of beautifully polished paint with a film. It's not a priceless jewel, just enjoy polishing and waxing to make it look great, then just enjoy driving it.

Yeah, the key is price. If you get it that cheap you can replace seats and carpet. I'd ask if it's possible to pull the rear seat to look underneath. Also you can pop off the door sill and raise up the carpet to see under that. If the insulation under the carpet has gotten wet and is moldy...

$35 - $45 per light if wet sanding is needed. Lifetime upkeep if they bring their car back to me for a regular detail. As of late, I've been using Meguiar's Keep Clear Headlight Coating.

With a proper pad, product and procedure there should be no problems etching the glass. It is, as they say, "hard as glass". I'd suggest for the initial trials, use your favorite paint surface correction compound. For me, I can knock out most spots with Meguiar's #105. The only worry I've ever...

Water spot removal can definitely require a lot of extra time. It is absolutely an add-on service for me. And just like paint surface correction, there are multiple levels of aggressiveness that can be used. #0000 steel wool is in my drawer. Also a bottle of Bar Keepers Friend and CarPro Ceriglass.

This is indeed the best alternative in my book. I'm happy to have customers get involved in my paint surface corrections. They can see first hand what the "before" looks like, before we show them the "after". Going out on a limb here, your tolerance for a few minor marks will likely be higher...

Is there a concern of getting a cloudy build-up of product from those crazies who may end up using this stuff weekly? Because you know someone will!