Would you include water spot removal in a basic detail package? and how to?

R

RMarkJr

New member
Joined
Mar 9, 2017
Messages
348
Reaction score
0
Well the title pretty much says it all.

I did a friends car today and I noticed that there were water spots/stains on the outside glass. Glass cleaner didnt touch it. Wasnt real sure what to remove them easily with .. steel wool pad and some cleaner? or just some type of cleaner with a regular microfiber pad?

so would that be something in a basic wash detail package you would worry about?

and what is an easy fast way to get those water spots off of glass?

Thanks again.
 
So you weren't able to get them out?
If I was in your shoes I would try Kaboom bathroom cleaner. [just make sure not to only let it touch the glass] As far as steel wool, always start off using it dry as using it with any sort of product/chemical/lube only makes it more aggressive. What grade steel wool do you prefer to use? I like 00 grade and reach for that 9 times out of 10.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Eldorado2k said:
So you weren't able to get them out?
If I was in your shoes I would try Kaboom bathroom cleaner. [just make sure not to only let it touch the glass] As far as steel wool, always start off using it dry as using it with any sort of product/chemical/lube only makes it more aggressive. What grade steel wool do you prefer to use? I like 00 grade and reach for that 9 times out of 10.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I honestly didnt try real hard. But I was only using stoner invisible glass with a microfiber towel. It was my girlfriends friends car that I was doing for free inside and out.

I thought about the steel wool with something like CLR .. if I used steel wool it would be the 00 ..think I have seen some 0000 around here somewhere too.

I didnt know it would make it more aggressive with cleaner or liquid. I figured it would add some lubrication between the steel wool and the glass actually .. thats weird.
 
RMarkJr said:
I didnt know it would make it more aggressive with cleaner or liquid. I figured it would add some lubrication between the steel wool and the glass actually .. thats weird.
Click to expand...

Yea that's what everyone says... "make sure you use some lube or else"
Yea well I've never had a situation where steel wool scratches a surface, but once I use it with some kind of product as lube it suddenly doesn't scratch it... 00 steel wool doesn't scratch period as long as you're using it on the proper surface.

But I have had steel wool + "lube" scratch a surface where using the steel wool dry doesn't.. Here's an example: Kind of hard to get a picture of it, but you can see the scratches/haze left behind here after using the steel wool with Turtle Wax Chrome Polish or Meguiars New Hot Rims Metal Polish as lube [I can't remember which 1 but it was 1 of those 2]

2f362108483803747050b62576338290.jpg


See the scratches

e221d1ae52e4cb34d24a02580d42034d.jpg


But the same steel wool used dry cleaned up the rest of the surface as good as possible [not including the permanent defects]

469332c7097060d7a0b2c434b9553086.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ya I can see the scratches in those pictures for sure.

but you did say you were using metal polishes. Doesnt metal polishes have abrasives in them? Maybe its the combination of the steel wool and the abrasives in the metal polishes that are causing the scratches?

Have you tried to use the steel wool with something like a regular liquid cleaner and it leave scratches?
 
Water spot removal can definitely require a lot of extra time. It is absolutely an add-on service for me. And just like paint surface correction, there are multiple levels of aggressiveness that can be used. #0000 steel wool is in my drawer. Also a bottle of Bar Keepers Friend and CarPro Ceriglass.
 
Just buzz the windshield with whatever compound/polish you're using to correct the paint and be done.

Tom
 
VR8 said:
Water spot removal can definitely require a lot of extra time. It is absolutely an add-on service for me. And just like paint surface correction, there are multiple levels of aggressiveness that can be used. #0000 steel wool is in my drawer. Also a bottle of Bar Keepers Friend and CarPro Ceriglass.
Click to expand...

ok, ya I was also thinking about that being an add on service due to the work and time it would take. I am going to have to pick up some 0000 steel wool and check out the carpro Ceriglass. Have you ever had any issue with the water spot cleaners etching glass? I seem to see that issue a lot with all that I have looked at.
 
TMQ said:
Just buzz the windshield with whatever compound/polish you're using to correct the paint and be done.

Tom
Click to expand...

That seems to remove it really good and pretty quick? or do you need to go over it with several passes like you would with paint?
 
Hard to say re: how serious the etch is on the wind shield. Best to test w/ compound. Take a towel w/ compound and rub to see what happens.
If it comes off by hand---then you'll know.

I've always been against steel wool. The problem it rusts all around bottom of the glass/ get stuck behind seals/chrome etc.

Was working in body shop and was ordered against my wishes and told to use steel wool. Well lo and behold---couple days later after a rain storm etc. there was rust all around car along bottom edges of glass and rust all over the new white paint! Needless to say---I was furious with manger and told him he was (several "nasty" words here). And to rub "salt" in my wound---was told I had to fix it! Per near killed the some-bach! Took me several days to fix it!

Don't get me wrong---steel wool is great if done very carefully (deep cleaning afterwards using air etc).

Tom
 
RMarkJr said:
Have you ever had any issue with the water spot cleaners etching glass? I seem to see that issue a lot with all that I have looked at.
Click to expand...

With a proper pad, product and procedure there should be no problems etching the glass. It is, as they say, "hard as glass". I'd suggest for the initial trials, use your favorite paint surface correction compound. For me, I can knock out most spots with Meguiar's #105. The only worry I've ever had using this method is getting the glass so hot from repeated efforts. So, keep it cool.
 
TMQ said:
Hard to say re: how serious the etch is on the wind shield. Best to test w/ compound. Take a towel w/ compound and rub to see what happens.
If it comes off by hand---then you'll know.

I've always been against steel wool. The problem it rusts all around bottom of the glass/ get stuck behind seals/chrome etc.

Was working in body shop and was ordered against my wishes and told to use steel wool. Well lo and behold---couple days later after a rain storm etc. there was rust all around car along bottom edges of glass and rust all over the new white paint! Needless to say---I was furious with manger and told him he was (several "nasty" words here). And to rub "salt" in my wound---was told I had to fix it! Per near killed the some-bach! Took me several days to fix it!

Don't get me wrong---steel wool is great if done very carefully (deep cleaning afterwards using air etc).

Tom
Click to expand...

interesting note about the rust. Have you ever had any swirls on the glass from using compound that you had to get out with another product?
 
VR8 said:
With a proper pad, product and procedure there should be no problems etching the glass. It is, as they say, "hard as glass". I'd suggest for the initial trials, use your favorite paint surface correction compound. For me, I can knock out most spots with Meguiar's #105. The only worry I've ever had using this method is getting the glass so hot from repeated efforts. So, keep it cool.
Click to expand...

When you use M105 do you typically use a cutting foam pad or something like a polish pad with it? and have you ever had any swirls in the glass after using the compound?
 
RMarkJr said:
Ya I can see the scratches in those pictures for sure.

but you did say you were using metal polishes. Doesnt metal polishes have abrasives in them? Maybe its the combination of the steel wool and the abrasives in the metal polishes that are causing the scratches?

Have you tried to use the steel wool with something like a regular liquid cleaner and it leave scratches?
Click to expand...

Yea, the steel wool used alone wouldn't scratch that surface, neither would the metal polishes when used alone.

Have I used steel wool with regular liquid cleaner and had it scratch? Well there's not many liquid cleaners I can think of... You mean like diluted APC or glass cleaner? I don't think I'd ever really consider using either of those with the steel wool. I think some people say they do, but I just don't see how that's a good idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Its important to neutralize them first. I keep a bottle of Spotless and if I detail a vehicle with bad spots, I will usually try a small spot with it to see if there will come out. If the remover will take them out, I will usually let the customer know and uncharge a bit if they wish. If it need polishing, ill quote as well. Waterspotting is crucial to point out to customer and note on your inspection form as well. Its a great time to educate the customer.
 
Eldorado2k said:
Yea, the steel wool used alone wouldn't scratch that surface, neither would the metal polishes when used alone.

Have I used steel wool with regular liquid cleaner and had it scratch? Well there's not many liquid cleaners I can think of... You mean like diluted APC or glass cleaner? I don't think I'd ever really consider using either of those with the steel wool. I think some people say they do, but I just don't see how that's a good idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Well I see some water spot removers that look like a liquid and not a paste with abrasives. So something like that with 0000 steel wool. I wouldnt think that would scratch a window would it?
 
CarolinasFinestDetailing said:
Its important to neutralize them first. I keep a bottle of Spotless and if I detail a vehicle with bad spots, I will usually try a small spot with it to see if there will come out. If the remover will take them out, I will usually let the customer know and uncharge a bit if they wish. If it need polishing, ill quote as well. Waterspotting is crucial to point out to customer and note on your inspection form as well. Its a great time to educate the customer.
Click to expand...

When you say important to neutralize them first .. are you saying need to remove the water spots out first before you polish? Also .. if the remover takes them out .. why would you charge them less? you are still doing an extra step before the polishing? or was the polishing to get the water spots out?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top