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I doubt a 911 will ever be in my garage, but I surely have sights set on my butt in a Boxter or Cayman some day. Some of that awesome testing is bound to trickle down into what I'll drive hopefully. Cool video.

I'll admit I have a different process while polishing. I like the reasoning Mike gives for doing the top first and I may tweek my process a little. But here's my reasoning for doing the hood or trunk lid first. #1) It's easiest to see the test spot on a lower level. Now Mike may do his test...

I do the exact same thing Tundra, Flex (or other machine) for the polishing and PC for the wax/sealant application. Like Bobby said, the PC is the lightweight machine, therefore the easiest one to apply sealants only having to use one hand to guide it across the car. And there's the least amount...

Try Coastal Wipers (.com) Our 50 gram terry microfiber cleaning cloth is a heavy weight 16 x 16 cloth made of the highest 70/30 blend of polyester/polyamide(nylon). This is not a cheap store bought microfiber cloth that will only last a couple of washes. Superior absorbency and durability it...

Looking good Nick! So did you buy her new hubcaps or did she? Or were they not really missing as in the first pics?

I like that idea. :dblthumb2:

Minus all the commentary on driving a manuel or a automatic, nothing sounds worse than the shift of an automatic on a sports car with a aftermarket exhaust. As a kid I remember immitating that horrible, wimpy sound ... chuuugawaaaa.....waaaaaa........waaaaaa. I'll stick with manual.

In this particular case (pictured) Bobby, it's unknown. The owner just bought the car from a used car dealership. In a more recent case, one I just did last week, the car had been painted within the month. But this more recent case is also the one that happened on the hood, as in metal, so...

I just wish that I could have had one of these problems occur with my Flex instead of always with the rotary. Evidently the drag on the paint with the rotary, not having any oscillation, is what breaks the weak contact apart. I was also hoping that someone else has had the same problem...

I just did that exact vehicle, and I love that color! Mine didn't involve a correction, so your's looks better. ;) Nicely done.

Most of the ones I've come across, the damage is done. A thorough cleaning and some rubber/vinyl dressing will make them look better, but not perfect.

Come on guys, I was sure this would generate more conflict. For more details, I was using a rotary with Meguiar's #105 ... but I'm smart enough to know how NOT to let the paint get too hot. I'm always moving the buffer over an area so as not to heat up one spot too much. In both cases of my...

Yep, both repaints (but two different ones). I'm orchestrating my no-fault clause against repaints now! :xyxthumbs:

Just started a thread about my damage to a customers car: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/43611-break-away-paint-buffer-damage-paint-prep-problem.html#post577895 In all cases it's worthwhile to have insurance.

Yes, it is the plastic skirt. But the reason I'm posting the thread is because I recently had the same thing happen on a metal hood. I've been told the plastic parts can get hot, flex, and then the paint breaks apart, but now I have the issue with a metal hood. ?? Sorry, no pics of the hood...

It will likely create a 50/50 split on what caused it, but here's the question ... Was this break-away paint caused by my rotary buffer (too hot, too much pressure...)? Or is this the result of poor paint preparation and the paint did not adhere to the surface correctly? This IS a repaint.

I've always found a bit of grease in my Flex. Every now and then I'll dab it with a paper towel to clean up some of the excess. Looking at your felt ring Sparkle, it doesn't look like you've added any 3-in-1 oil to it. I always read it was a good idea.

Must be time to show the reds ... 2004 Mazda RX-8 with it's recently applied Wolfgang Fuzion.

Wolfgang Fuzion