Break-away Paint! Buffer Damage or Paint Prep Problem?

VR8

VR8

New member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
524
Reaction score
0
It will likely create a 50/50 split on what caused it, but here's the question ...

Was this break-away paint caused by my rotary buffer (too hot, too much pressure...)? Or is this the result of poor paint preparation and the paint did not adhere to the surface correctly?

This IS a repaint.

IMG_7078.jpg
 
Setec Astronomy said:
That's a plastic lower skirt? I'd say you overheated it.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is the plastic skirt. But the reason I'm posting the thread is because I recently had the same thing happen on a metal hood. I've been told the plastic parts can get hot, flex, and then the paint breaks apart, but now I have the issue with a metal hood. ?? Sorry, no pics of the hood damage but it had that same look, small flecks of paint spun in a circular direction.
 
VR8 said:
Yes, it is the plastic skirt. But the reason I'm posting the thread is because I recently had the same thing happen on a metal hood. I've been told the plastic parts can get hot, flex, and then the paint breaks apart, but now I have the issue with a metal hood. ?? Sorry, not pics of the hood damage but it had that same look, small flecks of paint spun in a circular direction.
Click to expand...

Was the hood a repaint? If so, find a new body shop!
 
Flash Gordon said:
Was the hood a repaint? If so, find a new body shop!
Click to expand...

Yep, both repaints (but two different ones). I'm orchestrating my no-fault clause against repaints now! :xyxthumbs:
 
Come on guys, I was sure this would generate more conflict.

For more details, I was using a rotary with Meguiar's #105 ... but I'm smart enough to know how NOT to let the paint get too hot. I'm always moving the buffer over an area so as not to heat up one spot too much. In both cases of my misfortune, the flakes seemed to pull away from the paint in the first 30 seconds of buffing time, unusually quick in my opinion. And to me, it doesn't even resemble a buffer burn. Now obviously the paint heated some, so this quick release of paint flakes is not the norm. Again, in my opinion.

Thoughts?
 
I am no expert in any way on how these defects occur, but to my eyes the way the paint cracked and chipped, versus wrinkling or burning, suggests that the prep work was not done properly prior to painting. I can't imagine how a smoothly rotating pad would cause jacked chips and cracks.
 
I just wish that I could have had one of these problems occur with my Flex instead of always with the rotary. Evidently the drag on the paint with the rotary, not having any oscillation, is what breaks the weak contact apart.

I was also hoping that someone else has had the same problem somewhere along the line and could comment on what their conditions were like.
 
Plastic or rubberized trim can be a challenge to work with.

When painting flexible trim components an additive called a flex agent must be added to the paint prior to its application. Without this additive cracking, chipping, delamination are all signs of cheap and shoddy workmanship.

chip-01.jpg


chip-02.jpg


What I see in the photos above is all the color pushed in one direction.

Now, could this have become too warm due to the friction generated by a rotary? Yes. But it can also be caused by poor surface preporation and the lack of a flex agent additive...

I don't see allot of melting from excessive heat do to friction but rather a series of fractures along a radius or high point.....

One question would be how new is this paint?
 
In this particular case (pictured) Bobby, it's unknown. The owner just bought the car from a used car dealership. In a more recent case, one I just did last week, the car had been painted within the month. But this more recent case is also the one that happened on the hood, as in metal, so somewhat different set of circumstances.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top