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I use cg wash clear for daily use and stripe lsp with different dilution. 0.5oz per gallon for 2 buckets wash and 1oz with rest of water for foam cannon. Turn your foam cannon all the way to negative, you should get probably 10+ wash out of it

Once you apply rain x or any other brand on the section, wipe with second damp cloth again then finally dry with the third cloth.

Here you go Anyone used Menzerna FG400 yet? - Detailing World I m definitely not a DAT fan but ill give it a try.

For sealant it is a must to remove oil/residue from compound/polish before lsp. For carnuaba wax, I will still strongly suggest you to remove oil/residue for it may cause feint hologram/streaking.

Hyper spray products. I mean compound/polish are pretty good but the sprayers are just suck.

Currently using colly 915, fuzion and cg v7.

Upon what u were saying, I can assume that you are looking for a faster way to get the job done. So rotary wool pad m105 is what you need then finish with your regular pcxp procedures. And of course, surbuf pad DA m105 will almost do the same thing as with rotary at slower rate.

My suggestion is getting a wool pad and a backing plate, you don't need anything other than those. It is because you re new to rotary, so finish with your trusty pcxp is your best bet for swirl free finish.

My mom has exact same color on her BMW and I've detailed it few times. IME, 85rd won't do anything with either black or white pad beside darken and wetten it. I will always go with black pad + 85rd.

Here is the article from Mike, which is about single stage white paint. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22982-lesson-white-paint-teaches-us.html

I don't know if ur going to polish afterward. If so, try some 8000 grit sandpaper. Hope it helps

I think the " overspray" you see is rail dust. Use iron x on it then clay.

SMAT products just don't perform too well on soft paint, but you never know until you do a test spot. You can try products from Wolfgang and menzerna. They both do good on soft paints. I'm sorry that if M205 mar the paint then UC will definitely make it even worse.

Just got my door repainted. I ask the painter when I can wax that door. He said the door was baked at certain temperature for a hour and it's wax-able. Is it true?

Claybar kit, iron x, tire dressing, some microfiber cloth. Anymore missing?

Learn from Richy: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/43535-key-repair-step-step-procedure.html

Thanks for all your opinions. I have a full time job and no garage, so I have to work outside overnight when I have a dayoff. Well, with my buffer running...

Have anyone try to detail in the midnight? I have planned to do so but I am afraid to run a buffer that may disturb my neighbors.:buffing:

Have a friend asked for full correction. I said can you leave it for a day? Ill try to finish it as quick as possible. He replied, a day? what are you talking about? I could have an auto car wash staff do it in an hour or two. I was like ughh... Ok... I needed to educate him about detailing.

How does the new hybrid power finish heavy cut pad compare to mf cutting disc and surbuf pad in cut and finish quality?