Search results

I have wondered this too for my cars. Are you sure its rubber? There is always removal and re coating as an option if your not able to bring it back.

But then you are looking at that ugly towel all the time.. Good for resale though.

I have used a power washer a few times and it has worked very well. I also use the brush attachment on my PC to scrub them. That with the DP carpet cleaner it foams up like crazy. They come really clean, but some stuff just isn't going to come out as some have mentioned.

Yeah I just don't know if I can use it on say trim.. clear plastic.. that sort of thing.

Sooo.. I think I will just try the Body Solve and just be careful..

Yeah seriously right?

You could probably find some cheap steelies on craigslist. But I am willing to bet Rejex is going to be your best option.

Rain Clear is HORRIBLE! Its a waste of time. I used to use it before I tried Rain-X. Rain-X is 10 times better than Rain Clear. And Aquapel lasts for months compared to Rain-X's couple weeks.

I have no personal experience with this however I would try Rejex. It would be much better at protecting against corrosion as thats what it was designed to do.

I have tried both as well. I like Aquapel alot more than Rain-X.

Ok. Thanks so much everyone for your input! I think I will try the MF soaked in it. Followed by a really good wash or 2, and then clay.

That was my first step. However it mentions nothing about what you can and can't use it on.

Just wondering if I can spray this stuff all over the car. Or if I have to avoid areas. Im using it to remove some.. well.. more than some undercoat overspray. More like a fine mist that literally covers my whole truck.. (I sprayed it.. evidently I didnt take the proper precautions.. :doh:)

What sealant are you using? From my experience the sealant doesnt fix haze at all. Just adds protection and a bit of gloss. They should look crystal clear before you seal them. Also make sure that you arent trying to polish out stuff on the inside of the lens. From your pics it looks like thats...

Yeah you have to make sure you get down to the bottom of the defect in your first sanding step. Its all about taking your time and making sure you complete each step. Don't get scared and think "ahhh it looks worse!!!" and just rush through. You will end up needing to re-do them. I have heard...

I don't even bother drying when I wash in the rain. I mean really why?

Dont forget to protect them with a UV blocking product after your done. I have used Rejex for the past few months on my car that I polished the headlights on and they are still crystal clear. I used the same method as Alowes2837. 1000-1500-Menzerna intensive polish with my Flex rotary and a 4"...

I got some new pads and new polish just to be sure. Hopefully I can try that out this weekend

I did clay first. I think I am going to get some fresh discs and try again with the more aggressive glass polish so this won't take me so long.

So today I went to polish the glass on my truck as it had some sort of film build up that was making it horrible to see in the rain (Not good for Seattle) Anyways, I started off with my Porter Cable DA and a felt glass polish pad. I used Griots Glass Polish. Did about 1/3 of the windshield...