Headlight restoration- How do you guys make it look so easy?

Rhudeboye

Rhudeboye

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Perhaps this detailing business isn't for me. It takes me days to get a finished paint correction that I'm proud of. I have tried corrections using the same stuff you guys use and following the videos to a "T". The car looks better but it never looks like I want it. Its never "video worthy".

So Ive been reading these headlight restoration threads with great interest. I purchased a Turtle wax kit and followed the directions on one lens. The end result was nowhere near a clear lens.

I then purchased 600 grit sand paper and wet sanded doing the step up system to 1200. I already had 800, 1000 and 1200. I have posted some pics of before and after.

Before



Products used



After Sanding with all sand paper and hitting it with the Megs UC



Went back over w/ org pad and Turtle wax clarifying solution using flex and org pad


As you can see in the pic, they are not clear. I know they look better then the before pic but if not for these pics I would be even more frustrated as I spent 45 minutes buffing and sanding only to get, what appeared at the time, to be no results.
 
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im awful at these too so it wouldbe interesting to hear diferent methods:)
 
Had used a rubbing compound in the past and didn't get very good results as well. Got good results by using 3M's Headlight Lens Restoration System.
Took over two and a half hours on my two headlights. (Did use the slower speed on the drill.)
Didn't see any progress as I worked through the finer sandpapers. Then when I wiped 3M's rubbing compound off, I saw how much more clearer the headlight lens were.
 
Thanks Hen

that is encouraging. Had no idea it took that long. I dont think I ever read how long a restore took on this forum. I assumed it was like 20 minutes.
 
And these headlights were in bad shape. Wished I had taken before and after photos.
 
Stopping the wet sanding at 1200 grit may be the reason for your issues. I am not positive but don't believe that ultimate compound is capable of removing 1200 grit sanding marks. I like to go down to at least 2000, if not 3000, before starting the buffing with UC, followed by M205 and finally plastix. The headlights rarely look "good" until the final step.
 
My process starts with 800 (if they are really bad) then goes 1500, 2000,3000. Follow with menz compound and then SIP.

Stopping at 1200 is definitely one of your issues.
 
Dont forget to protect them with a UV blocking product after your done. I have used Rejex for the past few months on my car that I polished the headlights on and they are still crystal clear. I used the same method as Alowes2837. 1000-1500-Menzerna intensive polish with my Flex rotary and a 4" orange polishing pad on the slowest setting.
 
img0301z.jpg
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Your problem is you are not spending enough time properly sanding down the coating and refining the sanding scratches. In the pic above the factory coating that has failed is still not fully removed and there are still deep sanding scratches.

Use your 600 grit until all of the damaged coating is removed a then step up. When you do step up make sure you cross hatch(600grit horizontal - 800grit vertical - 1000grit horizontal..etc) the previous sanding scratches so you can see when you've fully removed the previous grit scratches.

UC is fine to use with 1200grit but if you have stronger compounds it use them. Plastic is a lot softer then paint and is much easier to correct.

However, wetsanding and polishing is just temporary solutions that will require upkeep. Months down the road they will begin to yellow again and will require polishing again. I find the best solution is actual refinishing by sanding with 800grit and applying a 2k automotive clear.
 
Yeah you have to make sure you get down to the bottom of the defect in your first sanding step. Its all about taking your time and making sure you complete each step. Don't get scared and think "ahhh it looks worse!!!" and just rush through. You will end up needing to re-do them.

I have heard about clear coating them but I'm not sold on that just yet.. Im waiting to see if using my Rejex is enough. I would just rather not deal with having to remove and clear them.

The 3M kit has also been a good option in the past for me.
 
Joe in PA said:
I like to go down to at least 2000, if not 3000, before starting the buffing with UC, followed by M205 and finally plastix. The headlights rarely look "good" until the final step.
Click to expand...

I wasnt sure about how they should look before moving to the next step. So that's good to hear. Is the final step using the UC? or is it the plastix. If its plastix then how do you know your not sealing a unfinished lens?

Alowes2837 said:
These only took about 10 mins each, not 100% perfect but fine for a ten min restoration.View attachment 7120

View attachment 7121
View attachment 7125
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I hate you:joking:

Lasthope05 said:
Your problem is you are not spending enough time properly sanding down the coating and refining the sanding scratches. In the pic above the factory coating that has failed is still not fully removed and there are still deep sanding scratches.

Use your 600 grit until all of the damaged coating is removed a then step up. When you do step up make sure you cross hatch(600grit horizontal - 800grit vertical - 1000grit horizontal..etc) the previous sanding scratches so you can see when you've fully removed the previous grit scratches.

UC is fine to use with 1200grit but if you have stronger compounds it use them. Plastic is a lot softer then paint and is much easier to correct.
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Man, your right. The film is still there and I can feel it. Its not smooth. So back to the sanding Ill go. I also wasn't cross hatching. Im still not sure what to look for as a sign as to when I'm done? :thankyousign:
 
Some people have been known to remove the headlight assembly from the vehicle and put them on a work bench then attack them.

Think thats a bit to extreme. Most of these modern headlights are not easily removed.
 
jcarson112 said:
My process starts with 800 (if they are really bad) then goes 1500, 2000,3000. Follow with menz compound and then SIP.

Stopping at 1200 is definitely one of your issues.
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:iagree: I just did an Nissan Altima that had scale like layers, and I started with 2000 then 3000 allowing water to flow while sanding in all steps. I have the Diamonite plastic kit with a De Walt cordless at 1700rpm.
 
How do i know when I'm ready to seal the lens? From what I've seen, the lens never really look clear until you run water over it. When they dry they cloud back up.

If its clear under water, is that a indicator that they will show clear once sealed?
 
What sealant are you using? From my experience the sealant doesnt fix haze at all. Just adds protection and a bit of gloss. They should look crystal clear before you seal them. Also make sure that you arent trying to polish out stuff on the inside of the lens. From your pics it looks like thats all on the outside but I am just saying when you get to the last polish step take a close look.
 
For real lasting protection, you need to use something like SEM SolarRay Headlight Repair spray. It is an aerosol and requires UV light to cure. I use a similar product, but it comes in a pint so I can spray it from my paint sprayer. The initial investment is higher, but the results and durability are FAR superior to using a sealant that will wear off in a few weeks to a few months.
 
08xB said:
Ya... I was gonna add using a rotary with a four inch pad as well...
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i have been doing headlight for a while and the best on i started out using from the store was the 3m kit it good but does not have a uv protector for lenses, bbut most kits in store dont hve uv protector, i did more research and stat using develup headlight restoration kit go to develup.com little expensive but very good i also used diamonite kit. that autogeek sale real good depends on what the light look like if it need real good cleaning i used the develup, if it quick and easy not lot of sanding step i used diamonite
 
Yup! You have to use a rotary and a wool pad to remove the sand marks. From my experience I use 4" wool pad with 105 at about 1800 rpm it took couple of passes. Then when I was satisfied how it remove most of the sanding marks I use a polishing pad and 205 to Bring back the shine and again it took couple of passes.

Is this ur first time Wetsanding?
 
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