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welcome to AGO first off i would forget about trying to remove swirls by hand and i would go with this list: 1. CG Citrus Wash 2. ironx, trix, or finish kare 3 step system 3. mothers clay bar (megs white is a very fine clay) 4. klasse all in one 5. klasse high gloss sealant glaze (wipe on wipe...

glad to see im not the only one who understands it.

thanks for proving my point, like i said they make an insane amount of money (i never said they were hurting for money), but an extremely large amount of money is invested in order to make those profits...and simple mistakes are extremely costly and counterproductive. i cannot go into details...

i **** you not...yea they make a truckload of money but the profit margin is very very small...a lot of effort goes into extracting oil from the earth, transporting, processing, transporting again, refining, etc...i am referring to the actual oil company (exxonmobil, chevron, etc...) i have...

fixed government makes about 50 cents a gallon, the oil company makes about 5 cents per gallon.

4.15 a gallon for sunoco premium here in albany new york. i remember when it was right around a buck a gallon, gotta love taxes, and the economy being in the toilet.

so how did you like the meguiars dub edition wheel cleaner?

Nope upstate new york...but that is with reqular washing and using nothing but rainx wiper fluid.

this x10000...i last applied rain x to my windshield in my last semester of college. i've been at my job for about 2 years now. still working great on my windshield.

i used the finish kare 3 step paint decontamination system in my driveway with nothing but some cloudy and cool weather and an ez-up over the vehicle..i sprayed the surface, and a mf towel and agitated each area to keep anything from drying...i worked the iron remover for about 10 or 15...

wait until you have some warm weather, take them out and hose them out as much as you can, then use apc and dawn generously and scrub well with a stiff bristle brush, then rinse with the hose, extract and hang in the sun to dry for a day.

i would speak with them and politely explain what they did wrong and make clear that the next time you have your car there not to wash it....or you could take them to small claims court like a jerk and blackball yourself from the shop, and any other shops who the people at that shop interact...

polish your paint, apply a coating, use a merino wool washmitt such as the carpro one, also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards, and for drying use a combination of the pooling method, and air followed by a good qd such as finish kare 425, to get any remaining droplets and leave a nice...

i don't consider myself a noob as i have been fanatical about my vehicles ever since i got my first one....but i have yet to jump on the rinseless wash bandwagon, i tried it once and wasnt fond of it so i stick to the tried and true 2 bucket method with my foam gun and it is the 95QGFMR by...

i would try using a 5.5" pad on the flex, or using next to no pressure as you finish polishing each section (i have never worked with v36 so i don't know much about it), the only other factor i can think of is possibly the paint being soft and the flex being too powerful for the job (like a car...

throwing it in the bank to be put towards my first brand new vehicle: 2014 or 2015 4 door wrangler rubicon.

go to a local hobby store and buy a bottle of ca glue de-bonder...i would test on the paint un the bottom lip of the rear bumper first to make sure it is safe for the paint.

did you try 205, a white pad, and a slower speed?

i plan on buying a brand new tacoma in the next year or so, i already plan on getting it in the summer time so that as soon as i get it i can bring it home do a full decontamination (using TRIX and nanoskin fine grade mitt) and then seal with 3 coats of klasse and then a coat of wax over that...

like I said the open boot does more harm than good.